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"FATAL" FX-8350, 6 MONITORS! HD7850 4GB DDR5 & HD6970 2GB DDR5 32gb 1866 ~Full Parallel water cooled~ - Page 85

post #841 of 851
Thread Starter 
If you like this builds RED theme and are planning a Red Themed Build, direct your attention to this listing of all my extra RED modding stuff! biggrin.gif

http://www.overclock.net/t/1419629/for-sale-modding-mayhem-storage-sale
post #842 of 851
ohhh man! Just spotted this on another build log, man I work in the Water Filtration business and gotta say... A FloJet Pump!?! Lol that is something I have wanted to see since I started selling them wholesale! lachen.gif

What are the specs of that particular pump? Did you look into any other pumps such as an Aquatech or Blue & White?

Oh and if it wasn't apparent, amazing build man! thumb.gif Really like the Glass Bottle for the Res, very original and often wondered why no one has ever ventured down that route before. I mean I've seen a Fan ShroudRes by L3P and that was just bonkers and I believe a gentleman named Cheapskate made a Res to be mounted in a 120mm Rear Fan Exhaust port, so there are a fair amount of Custom Res's but none with a Glass Bottle if memory serves me right tongue.gif

Have also been following the Military build log and that one looks like it is going to rival this build in terms of originality! thumb.gif
Edited by ArbyWan - 12/12/13 at 9:37am
     
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post #843 of 851
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by ArbyWan View Post

ohhh man! Just spotted this on another build log, man I work in the Water Filtration business and gotta say... A FloJet Pump!?! Lol that is something I have wanted to see since I started selling them wholesale! lachen.gif

What are the specs of that particular pump? Did you look into any other pumps such as an Aquatech or Blue & White?

Oh and if it wasn't apparent, amazing build man! thumb.gif Really like the Glass Bottle for the Res, very original and often wondered why no one has ever ventured down that route before. I mean I've seen a Fan ShroudRes by L3P and that was just bonkers and I believe a gentleman named Cheapskate made a Res to be mounted in a 120mm Rear Fan Exhaust port, so there are a fair amount of Custom Res's but none with a Glass Bottle if memory serves me right tongue.gif

Have also been following the Military build log and that one looks like it is going to rival this build in terms of originality! thumb.gif

Thanks! Its a FlowJet 03526-144A I believe. And I didnt really look at the other ones, I liked this one because it has white which is easy to paint. I believe the specs are 12 Volt, 5.2 AMPS FLOW 2.9 GMP, PRESSURE 50 PSI (3.4)BAR MAX LOW PRESSURE BY PASS. Thanks for folling my builds I need to get back on my military one... lol rolleyes.gif
post #844 of 851
Are you planning to enter mod of the month? I think we have a lot to learn from eachother, a lot of your mods are right up my alley, like I'm modding my h110 and H60 Dwood bracket with replacing tubing just like you, but I'm choosing to keep them separate. Can you PM me, like we seriously just need to talk IRL.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1406960/build-log-belials-perfect-z87-build/0_100#post_21405499

Some questions:
  • The 'fatal' covers everywhere, how did you get that done? Did you have dwood cut them from laser? I called some laser places and they were like $100+ for just a 6 letter word on supplied material, it was ridiculous.
  • How did you paint them?
  • Going with compression on some places, not others. I dunno if i like the 'inconsistency' of that (and i certainly didn't like the price tag), but i dunno after seeing this. But how in the world did you get compressions on the h100i block? Those plastic barbs, they are the only reason why I thought you couldn't do it, because you can easily cut off the barb on the rad and tap it.
  • Can you post like a diagram of the loop order?
  • What is the point of the flojet pump in the back (is that a pc pump or like a pool pump?)? If you did that, did you make sure to remove the motors in the CLC blocks to reduce restriction?
  • What are those pics about where you cut what looks to be (extruded?) clear acrylic to fit on the die side of the GPU?
  • How many tubes are going to that res? Why are there 2 inlets?

your build is super awesome thumb.gif
Edited by Belial - 12/18/13 at 1:30am
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post #845 of 851
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Belial View Post

Are you planning to enter mod of the month? I think we have a lot to learn from eachother, a lot of your mods are right up my alley, like I'm modding my h110 and H60 Dwood bracket with replacing tubing just like you, but I'm choosing to keep them separate. Can you PM me, like we seriously just need to talk IRL.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1406960/build-log-belials-perfect-z87-build/0_100#post_21405499

Some questions:
  • The 'fatal' covers everywhere, how did you get that done? Did you have dwood cut them from laser? I called some laser places and they were like $100+ for just a 6 letter word on supplied material, it was ridiculous.
  • How did you paint them?
  • Going with compression on some places, not others. I dunno if i like the 'inconsistency' of that (and i certainly didn't like the price tag), but i dunno after seeing this. But how in the world did you get compressions on the h100i block? Those plastic barbs, they are the only reason why I thought you couldn't do it, because you can easily cut off the barb on the rad and tap it.
  • Can you post like a diagram of the loop order?
  • What is the point of the flojet pump in the back (is that a pc pump or like a pool pump?)? If you did that, did you make sure to remove the motors in the CLC blocks to reduce restriction?
  • What are those pics about where you cut what looks to be (extruded?) clear acrylic to fit on the die side of the GPU?
  • How many tubes are going to that res? Why are there 2 inlets?

your build is super awesome thumb.gif

Lot of questions, love your interest. I will do my best to anser them!

-They Fatal Logos were done by Dwood for like $30 a piece, all the other "F" logos you see were from a Motherboard(Fata1ty 990FX) I had three of them. If your interested in getting work like this I would suggest gong to a local CNC, Metal works or custom bike shop, they often will do it for free or cheap as a interest in your build.

-Dwood painted the GPU Brackets but I painted everything else. What I do when im on a budget and dont have a air gun is buy automotive grade touch up paint in the spray cans, practice so that you know how to apply even coats. Bake the parts in a oven after painting or use a heat gun, it results in a much better coat that is durable.

-Its funny you ask about the H100i MOD because I actually put the whole process in one of my builds and a forum somewhere. But Basically what I did was use 3/8 XSPC Compression fittings, left the current plastic barbs in place but hollowed them out for better flow then with water activated Gorilla glue I pressed the Compression fittings over the barb fittings, and it actually fits real snug! Give it a day to dry, then paint over the glue that shows with a black sharpie and wallah! Now as far as the H100i Goes I took it apart and removed some of the rubber that concentrates the stream to the copper fins for better flow. Also you have to make sure you strain the coolant several times because the H100i has very fine fins and they clog easily.

-The FlowJet pump was the pump for the system and it worked great! Beats the hell out of any of those crappy overpriced PC Water pumps... I was designed for RVs water system hence the 12v, but it ran great and quiet @ 5v!!!

-The Acrylic on the front of the GPUs PCB is mainly for looks, cut them precisely making template for the additional cars then place them on with some LEDs and it looks bad ass!

- There are 5 tubes total, one inlets and three outlets, basically I had a setup where the CPU had its own loop the ram had its own loop and the two GPUs had there own loops. I broke the 3/8" for the GPUS down to two 1/4" and had two H70's.I used a 4 way Koolance splitter to break the one outlet from the pump into three. Also each of the three parallel splits had there own 360mm RAD.

I have included a quick sketch, it shows everything except the QDCs.

post #846 of 851
All I can say is daaaaaaaaaaaaaaaamn! This build is epic on so many levels. I just spent a solid 2 hours reading this thread from page 1 to end thumb.gif
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RYZEN
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CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
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MonitorKeyboardPowerCase
Generic Korean 32" 4K Generic mechanical rainbow LED lit SeaSonic G Series 550-Watt AZZA Helios 910 CSAZ-910 
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Logitech G500 T1 24BIT Tube USB DAC 
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post #847 of 851
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by FastMHz View Post

All I can say is daaaaaaaaaaaaaaaamn! This build is epic on so many levels. I just spent a solid 2 hours reading this thread from page 1 to end thumb.gif

Thank you! biggrin.gif
post #848 of 851
Ah, so a CNC routing machine place will make accurate enough cuts for letters/words/logos for much cheaper. Interesting...

So for painting, use auto grade primer then paint then bake it/heatgun it for durability. Cool
Quote:
-Its funny you ask about the H100i MOD because I actually put the whole process in one of my builds and a forum somewhere. But Basically what I did was use 3/8 XSPC Compression fittings, left the current plastic barbs in place but hollowed them out for better flow then with water activated Gorilla glue I pressed the Compression fittings over the barb fittings, and it actually fits real snug! Give it a day to dry, then paint over the glue that shows with a black sharpie and wallah! Now as far as the H100i Goes I took it apart and removed some of the rubber that concentrates the stream to the copper fins for better flow. Also you have to make sure you strain the coolant several times because the H100i has very fine fins and they clog easily.

Hm... I could go compression fittings for my build but basically it'd add like $100 just for 6 fittings (rad, res, block) on the h110 + reservoir. It does allow you to do hard acrylic tubing, which is pretty awesome but... I dunno, I decided against it. No offense but I just don't like the mating on your compression fittings on your block. I think to really make it perfect you gotta use some sort of 90* fittings so it looks like it's part of the block, or screwed right into the block.

It's a hard call to make and you definitely did a good job, really can't tell in the pics because you know, those barbs are so small and the barb to compression mating is unnoticeable, but you know I just felt I had to make a call on where to stop because replacing the tubing on an h110 is kinda overkill in the first place. If I don't win MOTM with my first entry I'll consider doing what you did though, then acrylic tubing. Just seems like a ton of work, for not the most perfect result.

Did you put compression fittings on the h100i or any of the CLC's radiators? I'd be interested in knowing if you did that and how. I was thinking dremel the original barb, tap the metal, screw in fitting.
Quote:
-The Acrylic on the front of the GPUs PCB is mainly for looks, cut them precisely making template for the additional cars then place them on with some LEDs and it looks bad ass!

I'm not sure I understand, i only see one pic where this clear PCB is on the topside of the card and that's where you show it fitting on.

Quite the insane build... I'm still a bit unsure of tubing/mounting for my build and having some issues with joining 1/8 acrylic together.
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post #849 of 851
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Belial View Post

Ah, so a CNC routing machine place will make accurate enough cuts for letters/words/logos for much cheaper. Interesting...

So for painting, use auto grade primer then paint then bake it/heatgun it for durability. Cool
Hm... I could go compression fittings for my build but basically it'd add like $100 just for 6 fittings (rad, res, block) on the h110 + reservoir. It does allow you to do hard acrylic tubing, which is pretty awesome but... I dunno, I decided against it. No offense but I just don't like the mating on your compression fittings on your block. I think to really make it perfect you gotta use some sort of 90* fittings so it looks like it's part of the block, or screwed right into the block.

It's a hard call to make and you definitely did a good job, really can't tell in the pics because you know, those barbs are so small and the barb to compression mating is unnoticeable, but you know I just felt I had to make a call on where to stop because replacing the tubing on an h110 is kinda overkill in the first place. If I don't win MOTM with my first entry I'll consider doing what you did though, then acrylic tubing. Just seems like a ton of work, for not the most perfect result.

Did you put compression fittings on the h100i or any of the CLC's radiators? I'd be interested in knowing if you did that and how. I was thinking dremel the original barb, tap the metal, screw in fitting.
I'm not sure I understand, i only see one pic where this clear PCB is on the topside of the card and that's where you show it fitting on.

Quite the insane build... I'm still a bit unsure of tubing/mounting for my build and having some issues with joining 1/8 acrylic together.

Sorry it has taken so long to get back to you.. . Been busy lol.

Ok so yea, I suggest primmer if you have bare metal from modding etc, but if all you want to do is change the color the best way to go is to sand the whole thing with heavy grit like 80, and clean it and sand again with fine grit like 200-400grit until it is very smooth. Then wipe it with a dry cloth, Spray a even coat, bake at 230 degrees to 400 degrees F for about 15mins then repeat the process a few times until its perfect! this will make the paint hard and durable and it will hold the gloss better as well, you can also go with a final coat of gloss but I dont suggest it sence its usually a light base and flakes and scratches easiy! thumb.gif

On the H100i you caint screw G1/4 in the block even if you wanted to because to MODD it for that would destroy the jet in the block so I descovered that the innner diamater of the fitting actually pressed onto the existing barbs perfectly, I added water activated gorilla glue for extra seal and I also boared out the plastic barbs for extra flow! biggrin.gif

And I have before but not with this build but you can drill and tap any Radiator and it usually works well, most the time if you get the whole size right you can just screw a G1/4 right in and the O ring will seal good but somtimes you may have to use glue! rolleyes.gif

Thanks again! smile.gif
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