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Overclocking i5 3570K With Only the CPU Multiplier Questions?

post #1 of 72
Thread Starter 
Hello all, I am planning on overclocking my i5 3570K sometime soon (mostly for Guild Wars 2) and I was wondering about a few things before I do so. So if you would kindly answer my questions, I would greatly appreciate it! biggrin.gif

Here are my specs relating to OCing (some listed might not be related):
-i5 3570K CPU.
-Corsair TX850 80+ Gold.
-Gigabyte UD3H motherboard.
-4x2 8Gb of Ripjaws X memory.
-Corsair H80 liquid cooling.
-Radeon HD 7970 IceQ X2

My CPU's Vcore is at 1.080V and VTT at 1.056V (or 1.060V) in BIOS.

The Questions:
1.) What is the max (or average) OC on an i5 3570K by only adjusting the CPU multiplier and leaving everything else on auto (I read that some got to 4.4Ghz while others got to only 4.2Ghz)? I am planning (or hoping) to get to around 4.4Ghz. If not that, then 4.2Ghz or 4.3Ghz.

2.) The most important question: If I increase the CPU multiplier too far, will my computer still be able to POST and allow me into the BIOS so that I can re-adjust the CPU multiplier to a boot-able/more stable clock?

3.) While adjusting the clock multiplier, I am going to turn off Turbo Boost (probably permanently). As I am doing that, should I turn off the C-states as well while testing for stability or is that not necessarily needed? After all, I am just turning up the CPU multiplier and I'll probably have to stability test again after I turn them on anyways.

4.) How many hours of Prime95 blend should I do? Should I also install Intel Burn Test? If so, how many runs of that?

5.) Will my GPU bottleneck with my OC'd CPU?.

6.) Anything else?
post #2 of 72

I don't know, but I know that the c-states should always stay enabled unless you either use an Offset voltage or decide to start adjusting the BCLK.

 

I have a question:  why don't you want to increase the voltage?  I mean, you have a fairly decent cooler and motherboard, so why not go for it and see if you can exceed 4.5 GHz?

It's a computer!
(19 items)
 
  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
i5-2500K @ 4.5GHz (1.368-1.384V fixed voltage) ASUS P8P67 EVO B3 (UEFI ver. 1850) GTX 780 ASUS DirectCU II (1228 / 6300, 1.180V) G.SKILL Ripjaws X 8GB (2 x 4GB) 1866MHz, CL9 
Hard DriveHard DriveHard DriveOptical Drive
250 GB Samsung 840 EVO (C:\) 250 GB Samsung 840 EVO (D:\) 150 GB WD VelociRaptor Samsung SH-S243N 24x DVD Burner 
Optical DriveCoolingOSMonitor
Samsung SH-S203N 20X DVD Burner Thermaltake Frio Win 7 Home Premium x64 SP1 Retail AOC G2460PG (24" 1920 x 1080 144Hz G-SYNC) 
KeyboardPowerCaseMouse
Filco Majestouch 104-key Cherry MX Blues w/NKRO Corsair HX650 (Bronze, ordered on 12-12-2009) CM 690 Intellimouse Optical (1.1A) 1000Hz polling rate 
Mouse PadAudioAudio
Basic, but premium round X-Fi Titanium HD Klipsch ProMedia 2.1 (with 16 AWG Monster Cable... 
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It's a computer!
(19 items)
 
  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
i5-2500K @ 4.5GHz (1.368-1.384V fixed voltage) ASUS P8P67 EVO B3 (UEFI ver. 1850) GTX 780 ASUS DirectCU II (1228 / 6300, 1.180V) G.SKILL Ripjaws X 8GB (2 x 4GB) 1866MHz, CL9 
Hard DriveHard DriveHard DriveOptical Drive
250 GB Samsung 840 EVO (C:\) 250 GB Samsung 840 EVO (D:\) 150 GB WD VelociRaptor Samsung SH-S243N 24x DVD Burner 
Optical DriveCoolingOSMonitor
Samsung SH-S203N 20X DVD Burner Thermaltake Frio Win 7 Home Premium x64 SP1 Retail AOC G2460PG (24" 1920 x 1080 144Hz G-SYNC) 
KeyboardPowerCaseMouse
Filco Majestouch 104-key Cherry MX Blues w/NKRO Corsair HX650 (Bronze, ordered on 12-12-2009) CM 690 Intellimouse Optical (1.1A) 1000Hz polling rate 
Mouse PadAudioAudio
Basic, but premium round X-Fi Titanium HD Klipsch ProMedia 2.1 (with 16 AWG Monster Cable... 
  hide details  
Reply
post #3 of 72
1. If you leave the voltage on Auto and just change the multiplier, the motherboard will automatically increase the voltage. So you can put any multiplier you want in there and the board will try to run it, though often at hilariously high voltages. It is better to pick a voltage you are comfortable running, like 1.25V, and then see what multiplier you can get for that voltage. Your specific question is what people can run at stock voltage, and that varies by chip but is usually in the 4.2 range.

2. Yes, even if you get instability from a too high overclock, you should still be able to get into the BIOS (since the overclock isn't running at that point). Most BIOSes also have a fail-safe that resets defaults if it fails to boot too many times in a row.

3. Why turn off Turbo? That's the way overclocking works on these chips, by adjusting the turbo ratios.

4. Most people say 10 runs of IBT for a quick check, then 12 hours of Prime for a final check.

5. The GPU is almost always the limiting factor, and certianly will be with an overclocked i5. But that doesn't really mean anything.
post #4 of 72
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by TwoCables View Post

I don't know, but I know that the c-states should always stay enabled unless you either use an Offset voltage or decide to start adjusting the BCLK.

I have a question:  why don't you want to increase the voltage?  I mean, you have a fairly decent cooler and motherboard, so why not go for it and see if you can exceed 4.5 GHz?
The reason why I don't want to increase the voltage is because OCing that way is confusing and more time consuming. I would rather just adjust one thing and leave the rest to the motherboard. Some people do it that way, and if the BIOS keeps the voltages under reasonable conditions (such as 4.4Ghz below 1.32V), then it shouldn't be a problem for me as long as it's stable, gets good temperatures, and doesn't shorten the lifespan of the CPU. Speaking of which, would volting a CPU at above the amount of volts it should normally have at its clock speed shorten its lifespan (For example: if I had my CPU at stock 3.4Ghz clock at 1.25V, would it shorten its lifespan because it should normally have say, 1.08-1.10)? Or, would it just increase temperature?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Forceman View Post

1. If you leave the voltage on Auto and just change the multiplier, the motherboard will automatically increase the voltage. So you can put any multiplier you want in there and the board will try to run it, though often at hilariously high voltages. It is better to pick a voltage you are comfortable running, like 1.25V, and then see what multiplier you can get for that voltage. Your specific question is what people can run at stock voltage, and that varies by chip but is usually in the 4.2 range.

2. Yes, even if you get instability from a too high overclock, you should still be able to get into the BIOS (since the overclock isn't running at that point). Most BIOSes also have a fail-safe that resets defaults if it fails to boot too many times in a row.

3. Why turn off Turbo? That's the way overclocking works on these chips, by adjusting the turbo ratios.

4. Most people say 10 runs of IBT for a quick check, then 12 hours of Prime for a final check.

5. The GPU is almost always the limiting factor, and certainly will be with an overclocked i5. But that doesn't really mean anything.
1.) I dunno, I have seen some peoples' BIOS do pretty well with voltages when just leaving things on auto (although the voltages are a bit higher than desired). Usually as long as it's under 1.32V, I'm thinking that I should be fine.

2.) Alright, that's good to know. But I don't know which settings (if any) have been altered in the BIOS when I got my new computer. For example, the company that built it may or may not have set the SSD/HDD to AHCI (or if it's automatically set to default when a HDD is installed on a new build).

3.) Because if I set my clock to around 4.4Ghz, I won't need Turbo Boost because it would be redundant. Why bother having it on if the CPU is going to be able to reach 4.4Ghz when stressed without Turbo Boost? Although, I just thought of an alternative method of OCing I could do (I don't know if it would be any more effective, but it sounds safer than just adjusting the clock speed): Keeping Turbo Boost on and just adjusting it to 4.4Ghz and leaving the CPU's clock alone. That way, I'll still be at stock clock settings but Turbo Boost will be able to jump me up to 4.4Ghz when I'm in-game. I don't know how well or efficient this would work though.

4.) Alright, sounds good. How long does 10 runs of IBT take?

5.) So it will be bottle-necked? How would it effect my performance then? .-.
Edited by Ophaq - 2/13/13 at 1:59pm
post #5 of 72
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ophaq View Post

3.) Because if I set my clock to around 4.4Ghz, I won't need Turbo Boost because it would be redundant. Why bother having it on if the CPU is going to be able to reach 4.4Ghz when stressed without Turbo Boost? Although, I just thought of an alternative method of OCing I could do (I don't know if it would be any more effective, but it sounds safer than just adjusting the clock speed): Keeping Turbo Boost on and just adjusting it to 4.4Ghz and leaving the CPU's clock alone. That way, I'll still be at stock clock settings but Turbo Boost will be able to jump me up to 4.4Ghz when I'm in-game. I don't know how well or efficient this would work though.

Were you planning on running it at 4.4 @1.32V or whatever 24/7? Because otherwise the Turbo feature is exactly how overclocking works for these chips. It just turbos to the multiplier you specify instead of the default.

10 Runs of IBT takes 20 minutes or so, depending on how much RAM you have.

And all #5 means is that your performance is limited by the GPU, which is how it normally is.
post #6 of 72
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Forceman View Post

Were you planning on running it at 4.4 @1.32V or whatever 24/7? Because otherwise the Turbo feature is exactly how overclocking works for these chips. It just turbos to the multiplier you specify instead of the default.

10 Runs of IBT takes 20 minutes or so, depending on how much RAM you have.

And all #5 means is that your performance is limited by the GPU, which is how it normally is.
Ah, OK. So OCing with Tubo Boost is the better method then? I usually use my computer for 12 or so hours a day with more than half of that gaming.

When I do OC my CPU, all I need to do is go into the BIOS and set ALL my Turbo Boost values to 4.4Ghz, (and then stress test and monitor my temps/voltages) right? Or should I do it 4.4, 4.4, 4.3. 4.2 for the cores like how it's set at default as 3.8, 3.8, 3.7, 3.6? Is there anything else? biggrin.gif

Also, I just remembered that the CPU is supposed to drop down to 1.6Ghz or so when idle. So in terms of FPS how many more (or rather, how much more performance) will I get by just using Turbo Boost to OC? I feel that isn't really a 'true overclock'. Now I'm getting all confused for some reason. XD
Edited by Ophaq - 2/13/13 at 4:49pm
post #7 of 72
Yes, use the Turbo Boost and then just set them all to 44. I'm fairly certain that the CPU Clock Ratio setting on the Gigbayte board acts the same way as the turbo ratios (although it's been a while since I played with the Gigabyte BIOS) but there is really no reason not to set the turbo ratios. Except you have to change 4 settings instead of just one.

If you leave the CPU voltage on Auto be sure to watch it under load, as some boards will raise the Vcore much higher than needed. 4.4 is about the point where Auto voltage starts becoming a problem, so you may or may not be fine there - so just keep an eye on it. You also may have to change the setting for MultiStep Load Line (LLC) if you get a lot of voltage drop under load.
post #8 of 72
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Forceman View Post

Yes, use the Turbo Boost and then just set them all to 44. I'm fairly certain that the CPU Clock Ratio setting on the Gigbayte board acts the same way as the turbo ratios (although it's been a while since I played with the Gigabyte BIOS) but there is really no reason not to set the turbo ratios. Except you have to change 4 settings instead of just one.

If you leave the CPU voltage on Auto be sure to watch it under load, as some boards will raise the Vcore much higher than needed. 4.4 is about the point where Auto voltage starts becoming a problem, so you may or may not be fine there - so just keep an eye on it. You also may have to change the setting for MultiStep Load Line (LLC) if you get a lot of voltage drop under load.
If I have problems with voltage, I'll set it to 4.3Ghz. The main reason why I said 4.4Ghz is because I read on a few forums that 4.4Ghz is the range where, like you said 'auto voltage starts to become a problem', or is under 1.32V.

Also, what's wrong with a voltage drop under load?
post #9 of 72
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ophaq View Post

Also, what's wrong with a voltage drop under load?

Nothing, unless it gets so bad that it leads to instability. Should be fine in Auto though, at that speed.
post #10 of 72
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Forceman View Post

Nothing, unless it gets so bad that it leads to instability. Should be fine in Auto though, at that speed.
Alright, thanks. biggrin.gif
By the way, how does OCing with Turbo Boost compare with just adjusting the clock multiplier? Is there any difference in performance?
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