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Radiator Under House

post #1 of 17
Thread Starter 
Hello. My current rig (in sig) has been going fairly strongly for almost a year now. I am having one major problem and that's the fact that my computer raises the temperature of my room quite drastically (To the point that I find myself sweating in January with no heater running.) My room is small and doesn't have good ventilation so the radiator ends up just moving the heat into the ambient air, which can get really warm when I'm playing a CPU intensive game like Civ V or CK2. I can't quite recall the manufacturer of my rad at the moment, but it is a 360mm rad.

My proposed solution: Use zip ties to mount the radiator underneath my house (I live in a converted trailer so there's a good bit of clearance and places to put the rad) daisy-chain the fans (currently I have 6 in a standard push-pull) and power them with a molex extension cable or a molex to wall adapter. I live in Florida so I don't have to worry about snow, and the rad would be mounted high enough so that it wouldn't be affected by rainwater passing under the house. Since it would be under my house it would be in constant shade (which, I imagine, can only lead to better cooling) not to mention very well ventilated.

As it is right now I have an NZXT Switch 810 Case with the pump (Swiftech MCP350) on the bottom and the rad at the top so it's about 2ft from the pump to the rad. If I put the rad under my house it would probably be a good 4 feet under the pump. Would I have to get a stronger pump to account for the added flow? Would there be problems with condensation? I don't think the temperature difference would be that drastic that is would cause condensation, but I'm not really sure what the calculations are for that.

Well if anyone has any comments, warnings, or answers to my questions please help me out. I can't imagine going through summer like this O_O

Thanks!
    
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post #2 of 17
I cannot find the picture at the moment, but L3P had his radiator under his house for one of his Desk builds. Let me find it for you.
EDIT: Found it:



http://forums.bit-tech.net/showthread.php?t=197139
Edited by ALMOSTunseen - 2/13/13 at 2:38pm
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post #3 of 17
Stronger pump may not be needed.

In a closed loop the vertical distance is not important - the weight of the water coming down will counteract the weight of the water going up. Think of it like running a loop of rope over a pulley, it doesn't matter how long the rope is it will still take the same amount of force to move it.

What may be a problem is the increased tubing length. I would try your idea with your current pump and see what happens. If it does not work, get another MCP350 and run them in series. You can also run the pumps under the house to reduce any noise, just be sure that the power wire is thick enough to carry the current over the longer distance.

Condensation shouldn't be a problem during the day, however at night it may be. A good way to check would be to look at the inside of your windows. If they condensation forms on them or if they ever fog up then there is a chance that you will have condensation in your rig - the glass will be close to the outside temperature which is as cold as your water will get.
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post #4 of 17
Thread Starter 
Ok, well seeing as it is possible, I'll go ahead and give it a try. How do you think I should run the tubing outside? I don't really want to drill any holes through the floor or walls. There's a window I can run the tubing through. Can anyone support the idea of running the tube out of the window and then getting some spray foam insulation to both protect the tube and seal the rest of the window off? The window would have to be opened about an inch to let the tubing through, would something like Great Stuff work to seal the rest of the window off and create a barrier to protect the tubing from the window frame? Thanks!
    
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post #5 of 17
You could use spray foam, or just a some wood/plastic with a hole drilled and the edges siliconed in. With the tubing, just use some of that foam pipe covering they use on hotwater pipes in house's
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post #6 of 17
Quote:
Originally Posted by inukai View Post

Ok, well seeing as it is possible, I'll go ahead and give it a try. How do you think I should run the tubing outside? I don't really want to drill any holes through the floor or walls. There's a window I can run the tubing through. Can anyone support the idea of running the tube out of the window and then getting some spray foam insulation to both protect the tube and seal the rest of the window off? The window would have to be opened about an inch to let the tubing through, would something like Great Stuff work to seal the rest of the window off and create a barrier to protect the tubing from the window frame? Thanks!

You may start getting into a situation similar to one I have with my pool. I have a great solar heater, but the run to the heater from the pump is so far that I am losing a lot of the heat from the water before it gets into the pool. Where you live in Florida, you may have the same issue in reverse. The water may absorb quite a bit of heat from the air itself as it moves back and forth. Certainly, it will not be as efficient as a shorter run when it is hot. That being said, it will never get any cooler than the temp under your trailer. If the temps under your trailer stay moderate, you may get decent results. Overall, from what you have said, at least it will be dumping its heat outside, and there is a better chance of the air surrounding the rad staying cooler than it seems to be in your room.
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post #7 of 17
Quote:
Originally Posted by inukai View Post

Ok, well seeing as it is possible, I'll go ahead and give it a try. How do you think I should run the tubing outside? I don't really want to drill any holes through the floor or walls. There's a window I can run the tubing through. Can anyone support the idea of running the tube out of the window and then getting some spray foam insulation to both protect the tube and seal the rest of the window off? The window would have to be opened about an inch to let the tubing through, would something like Great Stuff work to seal the rest of the window off and create a barrier to protect the tubing from the window frame? Thanks!

If it were me, I'd drill a hole in the floor and mount a pair of QDCs to a plate, then caulk the hole; most likely in a corner or somewhere where it would be mostly hidden.

On a separate note: be sure to use tubing that won't break down from ozone.
post #8 of 17
That's a lot of sand. Gets dirty pretty fast?
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post #9 of 17
Not mine, but I suppose it does, L3p probably has filters on it.
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post #10 of 17
Is there any way you could put it in another room, and use fans to circulate the hot air outside (like the way bathroom vents work)?
   
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