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post #11 of 21
Quote:
Originally Posted by Whalemeal View Post

Well I'm assuming 25 C room temp. >20 degrees air-water delta T is not what most people want for water cooling. I think most common (and desirable) target for air-water delta is around 10 C. So if your water is running at higher than 50C, that means you need more radiator. Also, most of the tubes in the market is not rated for >50 C temp.
im lost on the 10* delta thing. i am reading and learning as much as i can though.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Void-Ray View Post

and currently im running i7 3930k at 4.5GHz with 1.376V with silver arrow SB-E and under prime95 test it hitting 83 on my hottest core in your experience sir how much of that heat will go away in that loop that im aiming for? thanks again sorry for too many questions
thats not my question to answer.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Void-Ray View Post

and BTW as i said as for now i can only get my hands on XSPC and zalman products and that sucks tongue.gif
yeah, that stinks for you. where ARE you located? any way you can get the raystorm d5 pump kit and sell what you dont need?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Void-Ray View Post

should i change that silver coil from time to time like coolant too or i should just put one for all the time on my loop? thanks
the kill coil is good til it 'dissolves'.

*EDIT* removed my questions of over nubness.
Edited by pc-illiterate - 2/16/13 at 10:31am
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post #12 of 21
Quote:
Originally Posted by Void-Ray View Post

so from my understanding of what you're saying sir in my options the best way for me is to go with distilled water and silver coil http://shop.xs-pc.com/xsp/Silver-Anti-Algae-Kill-Coil_25522.html and just close the case cover so the coloring wont be any matter if i want to just keep it safe right? cuz im not sure if i can get those mayhem dye so easy and im just gonna skip that getting colored tube is easier i guess biggrin.gif but i will ask tomorrow if they have or can get those mayhem dye things
and about that "biocide" thing should i use both of just one of them? i mean should i use silver coil or biocide or both of them? or which is better? should i change that silver coil from time to time like coolant too or i should just put one for all the time on my loop? thanks

If you don't care about looks, then just go with distilled water and either a Silver Kill Coil -OR- a Biocide (one or the other).

The silver will last you for years. The biocide will last you for as long as the water is there ... which I typically change my water every 3-4 months, just because it's so cheap, and when I do, I just add 1-2 drops and I'm done.
post #13 of 21
Thread Starter 
Quote:
yeah, that stinks for you. where ARE you located? any way you can get the raystorm d5 pump kit and sell what you dont need?
yeah totally! in a damn country named iran! i can change my order i have time for changing radiator and pump so should i go with D5 pump and another reservoir?
Quote:
the kill coil is good til it 'dissolves'.
thats good thanks smile.gif
Quote:
If you don't care about looks, then just go with distilled water and either a Silver Kill Coil -OR- a Biocide (one or the other).

The silver will last you for years. The biocide will last you for as long as the water is there ... which I typically change my water every 3-4 months, just because it's so cheap, and when I do, I just add 1-2 drops and I'm done.
and thanks so i will go with distilled water and silver coil for me i think just colored tubes will do better i kinda care more about "clean" and "safe" more than i care about visual, not that i dont care about visual at all but i do put safety in primary so thanks for the info sir smile.gif
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post #14 of 21
Quote:
Originally Posted by Void-Ray View Post

and thanks so i will go with distilled water and silver coil for me i think just colored tubes will do better i kinda care more about "clean" and "safe" more than i care about visual, not that i dont care about visual at all but i do put safety in primary so thanks for the info sir smile.gif

Well, as far as the issue of "colored tubing and clear water" vs "clear tubing and dyed water", I personally go the opposite way of many people would think (but not always).

The up side of colored tubing and not messing with dye is that it is simple to do. Just pick your colored tubing, install, and you are done. The down side is that typically, colored tubing is opaque and you can't see into it. This makes it a little bit harder to tell if and where you have a trapped air bubble.

With clear tubing and dye, there is more maintenance (you have to add dye), but since you can see the water (either clear or dyed) in your tubing, you can easily see if there is water flow and if and where there is a trapped bubble.

Just something to consider.
post #15 of 21
Quote:
Originally Posted by pc-illiterate View Post

im lost on the 10* delta thing. i am reading and learning as much as i can though.

.

Well. When you setup your WC, you target for ambient air - water delta T first. If you allow higher delta T, you can dissipate more heat energy given your radiator/fan setting fixed. So that's a trade-off. You can save money on radiators and fans if you're willing to tolerate higher delta T.

Read this article for your understanding.
http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/277142-29-help-understand-water-delta

What respected people like Martin recommend is that you target for 10C delta T. You can see that his radiator testing uses 10 C delta T as a reference point. Some extreme people here targets for 5C or less.
post #16 of 21
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by 47 Knucklehead View Post

Well, as far as the issue of "colored tubing and clear water" vs "clear tubing and dyed water", I personally go the opposite way of many people would think (but not always).

The up side of colored tubing and not messing with dye is that it is simple to do. Just pick your colored tubing, install, and you are done. The down side is that typically, colored tubing is opaque and you can't see into it. This makes it a little bit harder to tell if and where you have a trapped air bubble.

With clear tubing and dye, there is more maintenance (you have to add dye), but since you can see the water (either clear or dyed) in your tubing, you can easily see if there is water flow and if and where there is a trapped bubble.

Just something to consider.

so again changed my mind by what you said, i think i would go with my clear tubing which i already bought and have it here and just use water without dye see how it looks if it was good then its good if it wasnt good i might try some lights on the case or just shut the case cover so i wouldnt see the inside of it or just find a way to get those dyes but for now and from what you said sir i think first i will try clear water and tubes i might just order those colored tubes in case i needed it
thanks again smile.gif
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post #17 of 21
Quote:
Originally Posted by Whalemeal View Post

Well. When you setup your WC, you target for ambient air - water delta T first. If you allow higher delta T, you can dissipate more heat energy given your radiator/fan setting fixed. So that's a trade-off. You can save money on radiators and fans if you're willing to tolerate higher delta T.

Read this article for your understanding.
http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/277142-29-help-understand-water-delta

What respected people like Martin recommend is that you target for 10C delta T. You can see that his radiator testing uses 10 C delta T as a reference point. Some extreme people here targets for 5C or less.

yep, i read that and edited my post. guess i need to find a way to check my water temps. im just wondering if i got a good seat on my block. i have no idea how to get my coolant temp up to an equalized temp safely to compare a new p95 run to a previous run with an h100. i was maxing at 63* and after a 2(3?) hour run i was at 57* or so, maybe higher. i was a bit tired at the time.
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post #18 of 21
Quote:
Originally Posted by pc-illiterate View Post

yep, i read that and edited my post. guess i need to find a way to check my water temps. im just wondering if i got a good seat on my block. i have no idea how to get my coolant temp up to an equalized temp safely to compare a new p95 run to a previous run with an h100. i was maxing at 63* and after a 2(3?) hour run i was at 57* or so, maybe higher. i was a bit tired at the time.

Generally, CPU temp is way higher than water temp. For moderately overclocked (Ivy bridge at 4.5 or sth) cpu, your water-cpu delta at full load (linx or intel burn) should be around 40~45 degrees. I guess a little lower for prime 95. So your water temp is unlikely to be higher than 35 degrees at full load.

FYI, there are two tiers of heat transfer in water cooling. First one is your cpu(or gpu) to water via water block. Second is your water to ambient air via radiator. What I've been talking about is the second one. The efficiency of the former depends purely on your water block. The efficiency of the latter depends on your radiator, fan and water flow rate.
Edited by Whalemeal - 2/16/13 at 11:26am
post #19 of 21
Thread Starter 
just another question should i get this one: http://shop.xs-pc.com/xsp/XSPC-Dual-750lph-Bay-Pump-Reservoir-V4-Black_35761.html
or is it better to buy these instead: http://shop.xs-pc.com/xsp/12V-Laing-D5-Fixed-Pump-TPP644-T12_25669.html
and http://shop.xs-pc.com/xsp/XSPC-Single-525-Bay-Reservoir-Alu-Front_25393.html
for now im just using the loop for cpu and im not sure about gpu or mainboard for now
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Void Ray
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post #20 of 21
Quote:
Originally Posted by Void-Ray View Post

just another question should i get this one: http://shop.xs-pc.com/xsp/XSPC-Dual-750lph-Bay-Pump-Reservoir-V4-Black_35761.html
or is it better to buy these instead: http://shop.xs-pc.com/xsp/12V-Laing-D5-Fixed-Pump-TPP644-T12_25669.html
and http://shop.xs-pc.com/xsp/XSPC-Single-525-Bay-Reservoir-Alu-Front_25393.html
for now im just using the loop for cpu and im not sure about gpu or mainboard for now

The pump in the first one is much less powerful than the D5 pump. If you consider only cpu cooling, the first one should be fine. But it's always better to open up the possibility of upgrade :-)

Even with added single gpu block, the XSPC pump-reservoir combo should be ok, but the flow rate will be a bit slow.
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