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Best Low Profile Radiator? - Page 3

post #21 of 28
My best for high speed would definately go to the MCR XP. It is unusually great at high speed. I used Titan kukri fans which have about an average PQ curve. Using something like GT AP-15s would be like my test at 2200rpm where the MCR XP was dominating slim thickness.

IMO some of the testing out there is iffy on rads. If you don't log temps for at least an hour and do QC on the logged data to ensure ambient stability and level ambients for at least 20-30 min, the result will be bad. Also testing with a processor is a bit challenging as the ambient changes, so does the heat output. My 3930 can vary from 170W to 180W with just 6-8C in ambient fluctuations. Many times these rads are only a few watts apart so that 10W fluctuation using a processor for heat load can be a problem by itself.

My point is, rad testing is EXTREMEly sensetive to testing errors and many that rush their testing are producing bad results. If you don't see the reviewer logging results and verifying the data and they are not monitoring heat load to within 5W somehow, don't trust it.

My testing is not perfect either, wish I had an environmental chamber so I could really fix ambient levls perfect. I don't have that, but I do major logging and monitoring to ensure the data is accurate as I can do.

I appreciate all testing contributions but have seen the bigger testing errors and bad data show up with rad testing, it is the more tricky testing because it takes upwards of 20-30 minutes to stabilize a small delta and 40 min for very slow speed fan testing. Also the gradual rises or declines in ambient will also falsely give a bad result by a degree or more. Those that assume a thermostat on a wall makes ambient the same are sorely mistaken, most thermostates have a 3C operating range and that 3C swing will really screw up the results. The bigger error though is the insane warm up time which depends on water volume. I have seen a few reviewer assume very short warm up periods and this artifically favored the double thickness rads. Not because they performed better, but because they took long to reach equillibrium. I won't point fingers, but do you research on their test methods and decide for yourself. There are some results out there that are really bad. Another way you can tell is how their results flip flop between RPM levels. There should be a smooth transition from slow to high speed. If one rad bounces all over the rankings, that is a clear indicator of testing error. A rad that does ranks low in slow speed then great at mid speed then poor again is not the rad. Look closely..again not going to point fingers as all testers learn from our mistakes.
Edited by Martinm210 - 2/20/13 at 6:57am
    
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post #22 of 28
On the XSPC site they describe the core of the AX as thicker than the EX?
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post #23 of 28
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jakusonfire View Post

On the XSPC site they describe the core of the AX as thicker than the EX?

You are right, I thought they were the same, just thicker shroud.
Edited by Martinm210 - 2/20/13 at 6:56am
    
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post #24 of 28
The Ex series from XSPC are great and are relatively cheap. I have experience with the 240mm, 120mm, as well as the 280mm versions and they handle everything with low temperatures using relatively low rpm and quiet fans ( Spectre Pro 120mm - 1200 rpm, Spectre Pro 140mm - 1200 rpm)
post #25 of 28
Thread Starter 
Thank you all! This turned out to be a very informative thread for me. It's amazing how far watercooling has come. I remember my first setup with a '77 Bonneville Heater Core and custom sheet metal shroud. Man was that thing an eyesore!

I think I'm going to go with the Swiftech or the EX240. The AX series looks good, but I can't find it in Canada, and don't want to pay for international shipping if I can get something nearly as good on this side of the border.

What are everyone's thoughts on these fans? Decent specs, and they're orange, which matches the build.

EDIT: Oh, and are there any real disadvantages to running a T line to a fillport instead of a reservoir?
Edited by airplaneman - 2/20/13 at 8:10am
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post #26 of 28
Go look at Martin's 360 Rad testing or Bundymania's 360 rad testing. Both are great. Martin's you can find on his website. Bundy's you can find here or on a plethora of other forums.

Edit: I don't think there's much of a disadvantage of going with either. T-line or reservoir should be fine.
Edited by HybridCore - 2/20/13 at 8:40am
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post #27 of 28
Quote:
Originally Posted by airplaneman View Post

What are everyone's thoughts on these fans? Decent specs, and they're orange, which matches the build.

EDIT: Oh, and are there any real disadvantages to running a T line to a fillport instead of a reservoir?

I've heard a lot of good things about those fans from different forums (ps. They're cheaper on newegg.ca)

As for the T-line instead of a res I can't really comment. You might have a harder time fully bleeding your system, but theoretically it should work
post #28 of 28
Quote:
Originally Posted by airplaneman View Post


EDIT: Oh, and are there any real disadvantages to running a T line to a fillport instead of a reservoir?

T-lines are harder to fill and bleed because the tube diameter makes it harder for air to escape unless you have a second port you can open while filling. The advantage of a reservoir is that they have a large volume that allows water to quickly move to the bottom and air to the top accelerating the separation of air and water. The second issue with a T-line is that the tube does not hold a significant quantity of water requiring you to be more vigil on monitoring the water level. Neither of these are show stoppers, they just make the process harder than it needs to be.
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