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Water cooling viable for me?

post #1 of 10
Thread Starter 
My system runs great the way it is but I've been toying with the idea of finally going water cooling, I've thought about it a lot and came close to actually doing it six or seven times before but each time I decide not to for various reasons, but now if I decide to do it for Christmas, that would mean my budget is much higher than ever before (usually I would have only had two to three hundred to spend) so for my system, if I wanted to cool my CPU and GPU (with a DD full card style water block) how much would I be looking at spending? I have a P180B which is a "super mid tower" meaning, it's a mid tower there isn't a ton of space in it but I think I could fit the pump and use 5.25in or 3.5in bay reservoirs but what kind of radiator setup would you guys recommend? Should I just stick with a single 120mm rad or would I see benefits from using two of them? (two single 120s, not a 2x120mm since that wouldn't fit in my case anywhere).

Lastly, I haven't been following the overclocking trends of Pentium Ds for a very long time and I've been running this system stock for a few months, but in the hayday when Preslers were the overclocking kings, I was benching at 4.2GHz with just the Big Typhoon, considering I have the B1 revision (the bad, hotter one lol) and an original P5WD2-E Premium (original BIOS but that could be updated if there is a better one out) do you guys think I could get higher with water? Should I cool my chipset, either by adding it to the liquid loop or maybe just by replacing the stock NB cooler with an active one?

EDIT: What are your thoughts on the Koolance liquid cooled cases? Normally I wouldn't give up my P180B for a number of reasons but I can get a Lian Li PC-V2000B (my second favorite case) with a dual or triple 120mm rad already mounted on/in it and it comes with most of the stuff you need to cool your PC.

For example, the Koolance PC4-1036BK: http://www.frozencpu.com/products/16...ml?tl=g1c7s532

or the Koolance PC3-736BK:
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/15...ml?tl=g1c7s532

Would the PC3 be enough for my needs, the PC4 seems like overkill....
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post #2 of 10
Looking at your setup if you are going to upgrade anything I would buy a cheep core duo rig. I say this because with water and overclocking your current cpu you will not be able to reach the speeds of, say, an E3600 overclocked on your BT.

Just my 2 cents
    
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post #3 of 10
Gotta agree with Niko on this one.
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2 OP pls nerf
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post #4 of 10
Thread Starter 
That makes sense but I don't really want to upgrade my CPU to a Core 2 Duo, not much reason to do so right now, if anything I would want a DX10 graphics card and Vista, but I don't want a G80, I'd rather wait until March (Iranian holiday) or June (my birthday) to upgrade to Vista/DX10, and when I do so all I would need is the proper water block for the R600 and I would otherwise still have this rig.

Anyways, I was looking over at Danger Den and configured a pretty nice custom kit for about $450, what do you think:

DD D5 12v pump
DD TDX CPU block
DD Koosah Nvidia full coverage GPU block
Maze 4 chipset with Intel hooks
2x DD Black Ice Stealth GTS radiator (I would be using quiet fans so this is ideal)
and then fittings, 10ft of Tygon tubing, I'm using 1/2" all around....what do you think?
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post #5 of 10
How much are stinger cpu blocks? If not much more you could go for one of them, otherwise looks like a nice setup
    
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
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Samsung F3 1TB Hard Drive Crucial CT128M4SSD2 128GB SSD Coolermaster Hyper 212 EVO Windows 7 Professional  
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Samsung F3 1TB Hard Drive Crucial CT128M4SSD2 128GB SSD Coolermaster Hyper 212 EVO Windows 7 Professional  
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post #6 of 10
Thread Starter 
If I just buy DD blocks and tubing, how would they attatch to each other? Do the blocks somehow hold onto the tubing themselves or do you have to buy clamps separately?
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post #7 of 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by Remonster View Post
That makes sense but I don't really want to upgrade my CPU to a Core 2 Duo, not much reason to do so right now, if anything I would want a DX10 graphics card and Vista, but I don't want a G80, I'd rather wait until March (Iranian holiday) or June (my birthday) to upgrade to Vista/DX10, and when I do so all I would need is the proper water block for the R600 and I would otherwise still have this rig.

Anyways, I was looking over at Danger Den and configured a pretty nice custom kit for about $450, what do you think:

DD D5 12v pump
DD TDX CPU block
DD Koosah Nvidia full coverage GPU block
Maze 4 chipset with Intel hooks
2x DD Black Ice Stealth GTS radiator (I would be using quiet fans so this is ideal)
and then fittings, 10ft of Tygon tubing, I'm using 1/2" all around....what do you think?

That doesn't look bad at all...I think I would just go with a 360 GTS instead of 2 240's.... Black Ice® GT Stealth 360 Highest Peformance Radiator - Black Products Model: GTS360 [GTS360] : Performance-PCs.com, ... sleeve it and they will come

fstfrddy makes killer cpu blocks for us.....Stinger WB.

You are going to need a rad-box to hang your rad off the back of your case..Unless of course you intend to mount elsewhere....Swiftech MCB-120 Black 120mm Radbox Kit

Tubing...If you are going all internal I would go with Masterkleer 7/16 x 5/8 tubing...It's a lot easier to route around in your case...You use it with 1/2" inch fittings....It flows about as well as 1/2" inch...If you want to go external I would go with the 1/2" tube....Danger Den :: Tubing :: Tubing and Clamps :: 7/16" ID (5/8" OD) Masterkleer General Purpose Clear PVC Tubing

Res...You can either use a res or a T-Line or a Fil-Port....A res just makes it a little easier to fill...... Danger Den :: Reservoirs :: Bay Style Reservoirs :: Danger Den Single 5 1/4" Bay Reservoir

Clamps...Automotive worm drive clamps work well or 7" inch zip-ties are also good.....
My System
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Open Bench 
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My System
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E8600 4545Mhz*9 w/1.29V DFI DK P45 XFX 8800 GS D9GKX & D9GMH 
Hard DriveOptical DriveOSPower
2x Seagate 160 Perp. RD-1 2x Asus Vista Premium Corsair HX 620 
Case
Open Bench 
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post #8 of 10
Thread Starter 
I'm thinking of the 2 120mm rads because I have a rear 120 exhaust and a top 120 exhaust and it would just be easiest that way.

I am now considering getting an Armor LCS, how about it?
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post #9 of 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by Remonster View Post
I'm thinking of the 2 120mm rads because I have a rear 120 exhaust and a top 120 exhaust and it would just be easiest that way.

I am now considering getting an Armor LCS, how about it?

I really don't know anything about them....If you do go with just 2 120mm rads I would go with the GTX, you will have to go with a little bit higher cfm fans but it will cool a lot better...I would stay away from the Koolance kits you were talking about earlier to, they just cost to much for what you get....
My System
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E8600 4545Mhz*9 w/1.29V DFI DK P45 XFX 8800 GS D9GKX & D9GMH 
Hard DriveOptical DriveOSPower
2x Seagate 160 Perp. RD-1 2x Asus Vista Premium Corsair HX 620 
Case
Open Bench 
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My System
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CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
E8600 4545Mhz*9 w/1.29V DFI DK P45 XFX 8800 GS D9GKX & D9GMH 
Hard DriveOptical DriveOSPower
2x Seagate 160 Perp. RD-1 2x Asus Vista Premium Corsair HX 620 
Case
Open Bench 
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post #10 of 10
Thread Starter 
Yeah, the Koolance cases cost over $800 with the stuff I need, right now I'm looking at an Armor LCS with a chipset and DD Koosah 3/8" ID blocks because it would take minimal effort on my part and it comes with everything I'd need and would cool well enough for my first attempt at water cooling. I already talked to my brother and since he was getting a P180B anyways he agreed to take my slightly modded P180B and I'm going to get myself that Armor LCS.

Thanks for all the help.
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