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Question about Coollaboratory Liquid Ultra thermel paste - Page 4

post #31 of 37
Quote:
Originally Posted by TLM-610 View Post

It's been a month over an year now since your last post. Any updates so far on your current findings on both CLP and CLU?

It so happens I had to remove my 3770K last month to change from scythe mugen 2 rev. b to a cooler master seidon 240m,
CLP was under there for about 1 year now, it was very easy to remove, it almost fell of when I removed the cooler smile.gif

I saw no real temp drops over time, maybe it did a little , but not really noticeable, few degrees tops maybe,
my mugen I gave to my son, he has a FX8350, also with CLP under the hood(about 1 year also) wink.gif
that one was a pain in the butt to remove, the CLP was hardened, I could not remove the cooler from the proc,
not by hand, using for me, a lot of force, so we decided to putt the whole thing in a vice, warm it with a hot air gun/paintstripper,
warming it very carefully of course ..lol
took about 5 minutes to warm it, then it came of "easy", using a bit force, and twisting it a little..

I think my application of the CLP was very very thin compared to my son's,
which was hard to clean also, after we took it apart, so all I can say , use very thin layers, I did both Die and inside IHS. between cooler and IHS.

we bought a bottle of copper/silver cleaner, to clean the fx8350, using that and the the cleaning pad that comes with the CLP packages,
we got it clean enough, but the CLP left some stains, I don't think its a big problem that some is left, we cleaned it as good as possible,
put on a new layer, this time way thinner then before tho, hoping next time it wont be a pitta to clean, have to wait and see right smile.gif

I think its worth it to use, maybe not between the IHS and cooler, since any good cooling pasta will do there, temp differences aren't that big,
to use on Die and IHS its still the best, temp drops are amazing..
well, hope this helps smile.gif

This was the official response from Coollaboratory when I asked them how to remove the cooler from the fx8350,


Dear Mr. Smit,

thanks for your mail. Please try to warm up the contact surfaces when the PC system is in Service. Then try to move the components like a lever or rotate them to remove it. For more information we are gladly at your disposal.

Sincerely yours,

Coollaboratory Support


I think you will be to late when you do it that way, the time it takes to take of the cooler after warming it, it will be cooled down again, a hot air gun/paintstripper will work better if its really stuck, could use a hairdryer also I think, just takes a few minutes, warm it to 70-80C should be enough..
Edited by VonDutch - 5/18/14 at 11:35pm
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post #32 of 37
Quote:
Originally Posted by VonDutch View Post

It so happens I had to remove my 3770K last month to change from scythe mugen 2 rev. b to a cooler master seidon 240m,
CLP was under there for about 1 year now, it was very easy to remove, it almost fell of when I removed the cooler smile.gif

I saw no real temp drops over time, maybe it did a little , but not really noticeable, few degrees tops maybe,
my mugen I gave to my son, he has a FX8350, also with CLP under the hood(about 1 year also) wink.gif
that one was a pain in the butt to remove, the CLP was hardened, I could not remove the cooler from the proc,
not by hand, using for me, a lot of force, so we decided to putt the whole thing in a vice, warm it with a hot air gun/paintstripper,
warming it very carefully of course ..lol
took about 5 minutes to warm it, then it came of "easy", using a bit force, and twisting it a little..

I think my application of the CLP was very very thin compared to my son's,
which was hard to clean also, after we took it apart, so all I can say , use very thin layers, I did both Die and inside IHS. between cooler and IHS.

we bought a bottle of copper/silver cleaner, to clean the fx8350, using that and the the cleaning pad that comes with the CLP packages,
we got it clean enough, but the CLP left some stains, I don't think its a big problem that some is left, we cleaned it as good as possible,
put on a new layer, this time way thinner then before tho, hoping next time it wont be a pitta to clean, have to wait and see right smile.gif

I think its worth it to use, maybe not between the IHS and cooler, since any good cooling pasta will do there, temp differences aren't that big,
to use on Die and IHS its still the best, temp drops are amazing..
well, hope this helps smile.gif

This was the official response from Coollaboratory when I asked them how to remove the cooler from the fx8350,


Dear Mr. Smit,

thanks for your mail. Please try to warm up the contact surfaces when the PC system is in Service. Then try to move the components like a lever or rotate them to remove it. For more information we are gladly at your disposal.

Sincerely yours,

Coollaboratory Support


I think you will be to late when you do it that way, the time it takes to take of the cooler after warming it, it will be cooled down again, a hot air gun/paintstripper will work better if its really stuck, could use a hairdryer also I think, just takes a few minutes, warm it to 70-80C should be enough..

Interesting experience and observation, my question stems from the common issue I have heard about CLU/P hardening after about 1yr of usage which made me shy away from attempting it. I finally go a PH-TC14PE and am getting far better cooling results than what I was getting with the Zalman LQ315. My current i7 courtesy of a member here does 4.5Ghz at 1.216v (but most apps run it at 1.184v) and because of that I was beginning warming up to the idea of attempting CLU/P. Now what works, CLU or CLP and why one over the other?
post #33 of 37
Quote:
Originally Posted by danwat1234 View Post

Coollaboratory Liquid Ultra isn't all that good after a year of hard use. In fact, it completely hardens / dries. On my X9100 after 9 months I started seeing high temps and after 1 year auto shut downs while crunching. Turns out it was shutting off because it hit the 105 C thermal protection.
Opened it up; thermal compound was as hard as a rock. has to pocket knife blade and sand it down.
So for longevity it sucks.
I wonder if IC Diamond lasts a lot longer. A few degrees difference doesn't matter at all, it's long term longevity because the temperature difference will reverse and widen if it starts to wear out.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jNgIQQcUSDM

If you're watercooling you're supposed to clean out your loop every 6-12months anyway. Also I've heard no issues about this and I've been using clu for both my delidded CPU and gpu for awhile now.

Also I think your video confirms the copper issue...so basically j guess copper contact with clu causes corrosion of copper and drying of the clu. Maybe it's the gallium in clu

Edit: ok check this out

Notice how gallium and aluminum are in the same column, that means they're in the same atomic group and share many properties including corrosion potential due to oxidation state. The copper causes the gallium to corrode not the other way around. That's why there are deposits on the copper and why the aluminum stock heat sink appears to be corroded.
Edited by Pinnacle Fit - 7/21/15 at 10:02am
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post #34 of 37
I delidded my 3770K and have had liquid metal ultra on it since for ever. Big drop over mx4 and temps haven't increased in the past 2 (?) years. I used mx4 between ihs and block though, too scared of ultra getting "stuck", something I read at the time.
post #35 of 37
You did the right thing it does weird things with copper
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post #36 of 37
Quote:
Originally Posted by danwat1234 View Post

Coollaboratory Liquid Ultra isn't all that good after a year of hard use. In fact, it completely hardens / dries. On my X9100 after 9 months I started seeing high temps and after 1 year auto shut downs while crunching. Turns out it was shutting off because it hit the 105 C thermal protection.
Opened it up; thermal compound was as hard as a rock. has to pocket knife blade and sand it down.
So for longevity it sucks.
I wonder if IC Diamond lasts a lot longer. A few degrees difference doesn't matter at all, it's long term longevity because the temperature difference will reverse and widen if it starts to wear out.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jNgIQQcUSDM

Agreed. I noticed the exact same thing after 6 months. In gaming sessions I would see 60-63C when it usually was at around 50-55C. Replaced the CLU and I am right back at the lower temps.
post #37 of 37
Quote:
Originally Posted by Pinnacle Fit View Post

You did the right thing it does weird things with copper

I once applied the CLU to my Gigabyte GTX 980Ti. It had an all copper base. Wanted to try some CLU to improve temps but I think the CLU spread onto the edge of the die causing it to short and not boot, so I replaced it with normal TIM and when doing so, my all bright and shiny copper surface turned BLACK for simply sandwiching it on and not using it short term. I now never apply it to any surfaces like my shiny copper CPU WB nor my EK nickel plated WB.
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