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post #441 of 572
Thread Starter 
Well, I ran the last tubing portion tonight!!!

It took at LEAST 10 attempts, but I finally got it...

SO I went bananas and decided to fill the loop for real!
I've never done a custom WC loop, if you recall, so this was exhilarating and nerve-wracking at the same time.

Three problems, pics tomorrow:

1. There are little miniscule goldish flecks of ??? floating in my reservoir.... I have no idea what that is, but I washed my radiators out really well before I installed, so it shouldn't be that.

2. (Oh, one pic!) Based on this orientation, do I need to move the pump for filling?





It is so low in the case, but there's no way I can move it and maintain the runs, especially the bottom one...
Ideas?

3. Should I move the filling location to the reservoir top (where they say it should be) and use the pump block "IN" like they mark?





Thanks - T
post #442 of 572
Quote:
Originally Posted by Thrasher1016 View Post

Well, I ran the last tubing portion tonight!!!

It took at LEAST 10 attempts, but I finally got it...

SO I went bananas and decided to fill the loop for real!
I've never done a custom WC loop, if you recall, so this was exhilarating and nerve-wracking at the same time.

Three problems, pics tomorrow:

1. There are little miniscule goldish flecks of ??? floating in my reservoir.... I have no idea what that is, but I washed my radiators out really well before I installed, so it shouldn't be that.

2. (Oh, one pic!) Based on this orientation, do I need to move the pump for filling?





It is so low in the case, but there's no way I can move it and maintain the runs, especially the bottom one...
Ideas?

3. Should I move the filling location to the reservoir top (where they say it should be) and use the pump block "IN" like they mark?





Thanks - T

What I did was make a fill port in the top of the case...this made it really easy to get rid of air pockets and will also make it much easier to drain the loop for maintenance.
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post #443 of 572
Thread Starter 
I guess I should also add:
When I run the pump via the external shorted PSU, the water runs into the system as it should, but when I shut it off to fill and repeat, the water runs back into the res / pump.

Thanks - T
post #444 of 572
Quote:
Originally Posted by Thrasher1016 View Post

Well, I ran the last tubing portion tonight!!!

It took at LEAST 10 attempts, but I finally got it...

SO I went bananas and decided to fill the loop for real!
I've never done a custom WC loop, if you recall, so this was exhilarating and nerve-wracking at the same time.

Three problems, pics tomorrow:

1. There are little miniscule goldish flecks of ??? floating in my reservoir.... I have no idea what that is, but I washed my radiators out really well before I installed, so it shouldn't be that.

2. (Oh, one pic!) Based on this orientation, do I need to move the pump for filling?

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)


It is so low in the case, but there's no way I can move it and maintain the runs, especially the bottom one...
Ideas?

3. Should I move the filling location to the reservoir top (where they say it should be) and use the pump block "IN" like they mark?





Thanks - T

Quote:
Originally Posted by longroadtrip View Post

What I did was make a fill port in the top of the case...this made it really easy to get rid of air pockets and will also make it much easier to drain the loop for maintenance.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Thrasher1016 View Post

I guess I should also add:
When I run the pump via the external shorted PSU, the water runs into the system as it should, but when I shut it off to fill and repeat, the water runs back into the res / pump.

Thanks - T

T it looks perfect to me and I don't see anything wrong with your fill point. Did not see where your drain is but Congratulations and good luck with everything.. Also it doesn't matter if the water flows back into the reservoir that I know of..
Edited by seross69 - 6/18/13 at 7:09pm
post #445 of 572
Quote:
Originally Posted by Thrasher1016 View Post

Well, I ran the last tubing portion tonight!!!

It took at LEAST 10 attempts, but I finally got it...

SO I went bananas and decided to fill the loop for real!
I've never done a custom WC loop, if you recall, so this was exhilarating and nerve-wracking at the same time.

Three problems, pics tomorrow:

1. There are little miniscule goldish flecks of ??? floating in my reservoir.... I have no idea what that is, but I washed my radiators out really well before I installed, so it shouldn't be that.

2. (Oh, one pic!) Based on this orientation, do I need to move the pump for filling?


It is so low in the case, but there's no way I can move it and maintain the runs, especially the bottom one...
Ideas?

3. Should I move the filling location to the reservoir top (where they say it should be) and use the pump block "IN" like they mark?

Thanks - T

In general it doesn't matter where the reservoir return is located - I've run top but I usually try to run the return at the bottom (personal preference mostly, but also the fluid in the res then helps to prevent turbulence as well).

Most likely if you didn't disassemble your blocks and clean them prior to using them those little gold flakes are probably waste copper from the milling of the blocks themselves. Shouldn't be a problem as there shouldn't be more than just a few, and they will probably drain out when you next change coolant out... but if you see a ton of them it could cause a slight decrease in performance if they get sucked back through and get stuck in the fins of one of the blocks. Still not going to cause major problems...

Shouldn't need to move anything for filling. The fluid can flow through the pump via gravity even when it's off... so in general you want to fill at the highest point in the case you can easily reach and drain at the lowest point in the loop... even if that means (like I do) adding a Y a little higher up with a valve... and then adding a long section of tube to that valve which can be bent to be lower than the case - I plan on just putting my case on four phonebooks and then the hose can be much lower that the pedestal rads. It works just like any siphon at that point and should drain all but a few mils of liquid once I open the fill port while draining.

It's perfectly normal for coolant to flow back into the res after the pump in turned off... gravity will cause that normally even when it's totally full the level in the res will change slightly from actively pumping to sitting while turned off.

Looks great for a first loop! thumb.gif
post #446 of 572
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by seross69 View Post



T it looks perfect to me and I don't see anything wrong with your fill point. Did not see where your drain is but Congratulations and good luck with everything.. Also it doesn't matter if the water flows back into the reservoir that I know of..

Quote:
Originally Posted by DiGiCiDAL View Post

In general it doesn't matter where the reservoir return is located - I've run top but I usually try to run the return at the bottom (personal preference mostly, but also the fluid in the res then helps to prevent turbulence as well).

Most likely if you didn't disassemble your blocks and clean them prior to using them those little gold flakes are probably waste copper from the milling of the blocks themselves. Shouldn't be a problem as there shouldn't be more than just a few, and they will probably drain out when you next change coolant out... but if you see a ton of them it could cause a slight decrease in performance if they get sucked back through and get stuck in the fins of one of the blocks. Still not going to cause major problems...

Shouldn't need to move anything for filling. The fluid can flow through the pump via gravity even when it's off... so in general you want to fill at the highest point in the case you can easily reach and drain at the lowest point in the loop... even if that means (like I do) adding a Y a little higher up with a valve... and then adding a long section of tube to that valve which can be bent to be lower than the case - I plan on just putting my case on four phonebooks and then the hose can be much lower that the pedestal rads. It works just like any siphon at that point and should drain all but a few mils of liquid once I open the fill port while draining.

It's perfectly normal for coolant to flow back into the res after the pump in turned off... gravity will cause that normally even when it's totally full the level in the res will change slightly from actively pumping to sitting while turned off.

Looks great for a first loop! thumb.gif


Thanks for the input all...

First, no I don't have a bloody stinking drain, and now I know I need one badly.
Even if I won't see a performance degradation from the flecks of copper in the water, I can't let that go like that; I'm just too OCD.
So now to add a drain to an already-completed loop... mad.gif

Second, and here's what I really think you answered, but you didn't have all the info... I think:
Remember what I said about when I quick-power the pump to push water into the system?
Well, it's draining that tiny reservoir, but like I said, as soon as it's shutting off the water is running back in, so my worry is that the system is not even remotely all the way filled, and now I have a situation where I can't properly fill it without destroying part of the loop.




Thanks - T
post #447 of 572
Quote:
Originally Posted by Thrasher1016 View Post

Thanks for the input all...

First, no I don't have a bloody stinking drain, and now I know I need one badly.
Even if I won't see a performance degradation from the flecks of copper in the water, I can't let that go like that; I'm just too OCD.
So now to add a drain to an already-completed loop... mad.gif

Second, and here's what I really think you answered, but you didn't have all the info... I think:
Remember what I said about when I quick-power the pump to push water into the system?
Well, it's draining that tiny reservoir, but like I said, as soon as it's shutting off the water is running back in, so my worry is that the system is not even remotely all the way filled, and now I have a situation where I can't properly fill it without destroying part of the loop.

Thanks - T

Well, technically you don't need a drain... but if you don't want to do really weird tipping, shaking, etc... with your whole system upside down (to drain it out the fill hole) or cutting a low tube and replacing it after the drain... then yes - you need a drain line. biggrin.gif

As far as filling... I thought your fill port was one of the side ports of the top rad... am I wrong in this? It's normal for the pump to pull everything from the res... but usually it doesn't fill all the way back up if it's not totally full... what happens if you keep filling until you can see water in the bottom of the fill port? If it's full into the top rad... even partially... then it really shouldn't be draining the res with that little airspace left to bleed. I'm confused. thinking.gif
post #448 of 572
Thread Starter 
Well, that fill port you speak of is exactly what I am using:





But if you look at the tube right below it, that's the radiator-out line from that radiator to the res... the final run before the pump.
That's why I put the fill port there, because I thought I would have a straighter shot into the reservoir from that position...

Given that doing it this way will not allow anything but the pump to fill the radiators (as both radiators are higher than the pump's base), is this even going to work?


Thanks - T
Edited by Thrasher1016 - 6/19/13 at 6:22am
post #449 of 572
Thread Starter 
SO...

It's leak testing right now!

(Later)

And now it's not!

Looks like everything went really well.... No leaks, no problems, and I got to get some more water in it during the running too.




I did figure out that my cold cathode kit isn't working properly though, and I don't know exactly what's wrong, but I'll look into it tomorrow.





Thanks - T
post #450 of 572
T I really like the white tubing it is primochill right??
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