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Swiftech H220/H320/H220X/H240X and CM Glacer 240L/360L Owners' Club - Page 209

Poll Results: Which do you have?

 
  • 42% (185)
    H220
  • 13% (59)
    H320
  • 12% (56)
    Glacer 240L
  • 31% (137)
    none... yet
437 Total Votes  
post #2081 of 13051
Quote:
Originally Posted by Azefore View Post

Looks really clean especially with the matching mobo armor, I'm guessing temps are pretty nice with the pull in and exhaust 120mms under the radiator?
So far yes I am very happy, but it hasn't 12 hours yet, lol.
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post #2082 of 13051
Quote:
Originally Posted by navit View Post

So far yes I am very happy, but it hasn't 12 hours yet, lol.

You mean for leak testing etc? If so I'm glad your airing on the side of caution though lol, cancels out me because I just started using like normal after a 2 hour run and seeing how it does, so far so good.
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post #2083 of 13051
^same lol i couldnt wait, plus with the lok seal fittings i wasnt too worried. just make sure everything is tightened down and the tubes are seated properly on the barbs and you should be okay.. biggrin.gif
 
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post #2084 of 13051
Ok so just to update I just put this really crudely done recording online to let you guys hear now noisy it is. There is no way this is how it should sound.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BLzr0Uum4m4
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post #2085 of 13051
Quote:
Originally Posted by ez12a View Post

^same lol i couldnt wait, plus with the lok seal fittings i wasnt too worried. just make sure everything is tightened down and the tubes are seated properly on the barbs and you should be okay.. biggrin.gif

Lol yah, those barb clamps are just so trusting feeling when I did them up again and I made sure my compressions were tightened with kung fu grip, I figured if it didnt leak with me shaking it around outside the case for 2 hours with a lot more pressure on the joints than now it would A-Ok lols thumb.gif
Quote:
Originally Posted by Semper Fidelis View Post

Ok so just to update I just put this really crudely done recording online to let you guys hear now noisy it is. There is no way this is how it should sound.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BLzr0Uum4m4

Watched the video and read the thread, I had the same thing when I was building my loop. I spent a good 50-70 minutes with it on full blast (didn't have PWM control when building) with that sound. I shaked it all around, flicked tubing with my fingers, tilted and shook it about and (almost) laid the loop completely flat in the case to jog out some of the last bubbles. It persisted so I took out radiator tilted the fill end up and let it bleed whatever air bubbles were let, put another few bits of water in and then remounted the rad. Let it sit for an hour and it worked it way out.

I'd add in some distilled water like what was said on the last page(?) and really work out the bubbles.
Edited by Azefore - 4/27/13 at 6:42pm
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post #2086 of 13051
Quote:
Originally Posted by Semper Fidelis View Post

Ok so just to update I just put this really crudely done recording online to let you guys hear now noisy it is. There is no way this is how it should sound.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BLzr0Uum4m4

air trapped in the pump makes a warbling noise that becomes apparent with high CPU temperatures and the pump at full speed. You should try topping it off. eliminated the warble for me and reduced the trickle noise.

what I actually did (not that I recommend everyone do it) is bleeding the system of air while the computer is on. With my computer on the side and the radiator unmounted and open, i prime95ed the CPU and let all the expanding air from heat rise up and out into the reservoir. I attached an extra barb that I had to the fill port so i could let it "overflow" and see the air come out. I can see the water level in the res rising with heat applied to the system, similar to bleeding air from an automobile cooling system. In the same respect, during this process I didnt have any fans running to cool the radiator or the water. Only the pump was running.

If I shake my radiator/res, i dont hear anything with it topped off (minimal to no air).
Edited by ez12a - 4/27/13 at 6:49pm
 
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post #2087 of 13051
I have a question about the pump itself, I'm manually controlling my 3 Noctua F12s and the H220 pump with speedfan right now, it's set at 35% and the pump is at ~1850rpm. At 20% or less the fans won't get enough power to keep up their rotations.
So is the 1850rpm ok for the pump or should it be higher? It doesn't seem to be chugging or anything but normal rpm on the motor before manual control was 3000rpm, just don't want to burn it out or anything.
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post #2088 of 13051
Quote:
Originally Posted by Azefore View Post

I have a question about the pump itself, I'm manually controlling my 3 Noctua F12s and the H220 pump with speedfan right now, it's set at 35% and the pump is at ~1850rpm. At 20% or less the fans won't get enough power to keep up their rotations.
So is the 1850rpm ok for the pump or should it be higher? It doesn't seem to be chugging or anything but normal rpm on the motor before manual control was 3000rpm, just don't want to burn it out or anything.

should be fine. The pump is limited to 1200 minimum, no matter how low you go with the pwm signal. thumb.gif Mine runs at approx 1400 rpm at idle. benefit of pwm over voltage control is that a minimum operating duty cycle(?) can be set.
 
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post #2089 of 13051
Quote:
Originally Posted by ez12a View Post

should be fine. The pump is limited to 1200 minimum, no matter how low you go with the pwm signal. thumb.gif Mine runs at approx 1400 rpm at idle. benefit of pwm over voltage control is that a minimum operating duty cycle(?) can be set.

Oh ok well that's good info to have then, are you using BIOS settings for automatic control?
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Is $170 for a H220 a good price considering its scarcity in stock across vendors?
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Overclock.net › Forums › Cooling › Water Cooling › Swiftech H220/H320/H220X/H240X and CM Glacer 240L/360L Owners' Club