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Swiftech H220/H320/H220X/H240X/H140X and CM Glacer 240L/360L Owners' Club - Page 112

post #1111 of 20728
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dizz22r View Post

I am waiting for the h320 with sata cables.

+1
post #1112 of 20728
FYI,
Here is my little quick pump noise testing on my test bench using my iphone. I only got about 2-3dBA over ambient noise levels which is pretty good so I can only assume it probably has a lot to do with the case being used as well as the motherboard. I'll have to do a better test when mounted to the motherboard, but here is a quicky I did when testing pumping power.
    
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post #1113 of 20728
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dizz22r View Post

I think you saw the TTL review and possibly Linus since that is were most of the people go look at reviews on youtube!TTL seemed very biaseds against the product. Linus incorrectly tested the h220 and he later said he will retest the h220. I personally don't have a h220. I am waiting for the h320 with sata cables.

How much better could the H320 possibly be I wonder?
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post #1114 of 20728
Quote:
Originally Posted by BradleyW View Post

How much better could the H320 possibly be I wonder?

About 120mm in additional rad space better.
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post #1115 of 20728
Quote:
Originally Posted by Avonosac View Post

About 120mm in additional rad space better.

360 Rad?
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post #1116 of 20728
Quote:
Originally Posted by BradleyW View Post

360 Rad?

Yes, the difference between the H220 and H320 is the 320-QP base radiator, and the 4 pin connector will be sata powered, not molex which is awesome.

Actually, I don't want to put words in Swiftechs mouth, but I'm fairly certain I read that going forward even the H220 will be packaged with the new SATA powered PWM splitter when they run out of their current MOLEX stock.
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post #1117 of 20728
Quote:
Originally Posted by Avonosac View Post

Yes, the difference between the H220 and H320 is the 320-QP base radiator, and the 4 pin connector will be sata powered, not molex which is awesome.

Actually, I don't want to put words in Swiftechs mouth, but I'm fairly certain I read that going forward even the H220 will be packaged with the new SATA powered PWM splitter when they run out of their current MOLEX stock.

Sounds good, but it will be limited to certain users only as many cases can't support the size.
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post #1118 of 20728
Quote:
Originally Posted by ElMagoFrank View Post

Looks like I'm one of the unlucky ones; The pump stopped working on my kit earlier today. Came home to a blue screen and was at first suspecting memory, but when I managed to get windows to load (a few more blue screens later), I turned on RealTemp to see the idle temperatures at 65C. While the computer finished booting I saw the temperatures climb to 89C during just normal startup load. I opened up the case and did not hear any water noises. Unfortunately for now I am back to my Zalman air cooler while I get this sorted out with Swiftech's customer service.

I'm sorry to hear about this and I think you've already emailed us. Just answer the question that I sent you in my email response and note that I've already approved your RMA request. Please call us soon so that we can finalize your RMA and get your replacement sent to you.
post #1119 of 20728
Quote:
Originally Posted by ez12a View Post

Ah i see you're going with a bottom mounted rad. I would think to get that proper angle they would use 90 deg swivels to get the tubing pointed in the right direction. Not sure though, this is my first "custom" loop.

Question for swiftech: Can the tubes on the radiator be reversed (i.e. reversing the factory flow through the rad) without problems? I'll probably figure this out eventually when i have the kit disassembled to flush the rad, but just for the official word. I will probably want to reverse the flow when flushing to dislodge any bits inside that might've gotten stuck.

I'll pass this along to Stephen this morning, but I don't see there being any issue with reversing the flow in the radiator. Let me know if you need any advice on how to flush it.
post #1120 of 20728
Bryan,
In your expansion video on the website you mention having the pump at the lowest point when trying to bleed it. I will have your 320 rad with res at the top of the case, and the stock H220 rad with res at the bottom of the case when installed.

When I am trying to bleed the loop outside the case, with the two rads, gpu, and pump, should I still have the pump below all the other parts when I try to get the air out? Also it is better or worse to leave the fill port open when letting the pump run for while in the bleeding process?

Any tips you can give us water newbs as to flushing, filling, and bleeding are always appreciated.
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