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Swiftech H220/H320/H220X/H240X/H140X and CM Glacer 240L/360L Owners' Club - Page 130

post #1291 of 20731
I'll be adding a GPU to my loop as soon as my tubing arrives. What's the best practice for flushing out any left over debris? Should I be using hot distilled?
post #1292 of 20731

I ordered some new tubing and some more coolant for my H220. So I followed the video and everything came out perfect. I ended up shortening the tubing pretty good. The inlet side is about 6 inches and the outlet about 9. Noticed some increased flow(nothing measured just visual from the fill cap off). I did however have one problem. when powering the pump with the PWM splitter it did not turn on. I noticed that the molex connector had the black and yellow wires backward on the connector so I reversed them and it powered on fine.

 

I did flush the system for a few minutes and did notice a few black pieces. My tubes had no residue on the inside.

 

 

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post #1293 of 20731
Quote:
Originally Posted by gsk3rd View Post

I ordered some new tubing and some more coolant for my H220. So I followed the video and everything came out perfect. I ended up shortening the tubing pretty good. The inlet side is about 6 inches and the outlet about 9. Noticed some increased flow(nothing measured just visual from the fill cap off). I did however have one problem. when powering the pump with the PWM splitter it did not turn on. I noticed that the molex connector had the black and yellow wires backward on the connector so I reversed them and it powered on fine.

I did flush the system for a few minutes and did notice a few black pieces. My tubes had no residue on the inside.






Can you post link to the video? Good job btw, looks great.
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post #1294 of 20731
Quote:
Originally Posted by italstal View Post

So, i tried connecting the pump to the chassis fan1 spot (allows pwm control) and the two stock swiftech fans to the cpu fan1 and cpu fan2 spots on my motherboard. Weirdly enough, it is working this way. Now all of them will increase in rpm when the set temperature is reached and the pump is no longer shutting off. One last question, would there be any problem or issue with the way I have it connected now (especially the pump connected up to a chassis fan1) ?

Good to hear, but are you sure that fan header is PWM controlled, and not voltage controlled?
I heard you should not run the pump on a voltage controlled header.
 
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post #1295 of 20731
Quote:
Originally Posted by italstal View Post

So, i tried connecting the pump to the chassis fan1 spot (allows pwm control) and the two stock swiftech fans to the cpu fan1 and cpu fan2 spots on my motherboard. Weirdly enough, it is working this way. Now all of them will increase in rpm when the set temperature is reached and the pump is no longer shutting off. One last question, would there be any problem or issue with the way I have it connected now (especially the pump connected up to a chassis fan1) ?

That shouldn't be a problem. Could you tell me what motherboard that is that you're using?
post #1296 of 20731
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom Thumb View Post

Good to hear, but are you sure that fan header is PWM controlled, and not voltage controlled?
I heard you should not run the pump on a voltage controlled header.


Well it has 4 pins, so I assume it is pwm controlled and not voltage controlled. I am not sure how else to check this, because I do not see it described as either in the motherboard bios or manual.
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post #1297 of 20731
Quote:
Originally Posted by BramSLI1 View Post

That shouldn't be a problem. Could you tell me what motherboard that is that you're using?

I am using an ASRock P67 Pro3 SE
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post #1298 of 20731
Quote:
Originally Posted by wizardonthejob View Post

Hello. I would like to share my Swiftech conversion experience.

I built my computer into the drawer of my TV stand and have limited room inside the case so I made a bracket to hold the radiator and mounted it on the back. Got the H220 and used it unmodified for 72 hrs and the pump died. So I RMA'd it, they paid the shipping and sent me a new pump 2 or 3 day shipping. They called, told me they flushed the system and found debris in the pump, but they cleared it and the pump started right up..... so I put my air system back in while I waited for a replacement unit.


I got my replacement unit several days later and thought that I would go ahead and add a video card to the mix, so I spent hours making the modifications and putting everything back in the case.


I primed the system and jumped the power supply but the pump never started.

-Checked the power port with a fan
-Jiggled the cables
-Tapped on the pump
-Shook it - really well
-Contemplated opening it - passed on that (warranty)
-Considered blowing it to pieces with tanerite - God I wanted to

-Stared at it in utter disbelief while I lamented over the fact that I had to put my air system back in while I waited for a replacement unit.

So now I am waiting till they open Monday so I can report another RMA... This happened Friday night - so much for a weekend of overclocking.

That loop that you have looks like it would be extremely difficult to prime in the first place. What method did you use to attempt to prime your pump and did you attempt to start the pump when the unit was stock out of the box?
Edited by BramSLI1 - 4/8/13 at 9:34am
post #1299 of 20731
Quote:
That loop that you have looks like it would be extremely difficult to prime in the first place. What method did you use to attempt to prime your pump and did you attempt to start the pump when the unit was stock out of the box?

The loop was not difficult to fill. I did work at it for about 10 minutes rotating the loop, getting as many air bubbles out as possible (the new tubing allowed me to see all the air leaving). Since this was my second pump, I wasn't taking any chances. All I was able to do (following your video on adding a graphics card to the loop) was fill it and let the fluid drain to the bottom of the loop, then add more fluid and repeat till I was certain it was full. At this point, I attempted to start the pump by using the pwm splitter hooked to my power supply which I jumped with a paperclip.

When I noticed that the pump was not running, I tried one of the fans on the rad to make sure the pwm was getting power and it worked.

Unfortunately I did not test the pump right out of the box... which would have saved me a lot of trouble.

Anyway, I got to speak personally with Gabe the CEO who seems very interested in getting to the bottom of the issue and has offered to overnight a new unit to me. 3rd time's the charm??? Hopefully! I really want to OC my machine. Nice guy BTW.

He also mentioned that the replacement units they send out are tested for a couple of days and flushed before they are sent... Should I then again flush the system when I get it (after an initial test of course)?

Oh and if you feel like putting some nonconductive TIM in the box to replace the stuff I used on my video card the first time (had to put the ol air cooler back on), I wouldn't have a problem with that! thumb.gif


EDIT: You mentioned that my loop looked like it would be difficult to prime... Do you have a different loop configuratoin in mind that I should use? Honestly, I Didnt think was another way to go about it. Pump to card to rad to pump.
Edited by WizardontheJob - 4/8/13 at 10:37am
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post #1300 of 20731
Quote:
Originally Posted by ez12a View Post

I too noticed a white powdery residue on the inside of the hoses and in the fluid when i drained it (along with some black specks). I have one of the first H220s available in the states lol.

after running distilled through it, it went away. I'm assuming this is some kind of coolant residue.

Both of the H220's that I have used have had a pretty bad smell to them, the first one more than the second. I was actually getting headaches from it.

It's almost as if a chemical reaction was going on, and I have to have the window open here to use the computer.

Curious if this could be related.
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