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Swiftech H220/H320/H220X/H240X/H140X and CM Glacer 240L/360L Owners' Club - Page 1602

post #16011 of 20723
So I got my H220x after international shipping and customs delays and I must say. For all of the quality that shines through on the Radiator and the CPU block, The mounting is a pain in the neck. I had to have someone hold the backplate in place before the block could be aligned and the screws pushed through. A good 20C difference on my load temps from the H80i I was using before this. I'm using Shin Etsu X23-7783D as TIM
I got the CPU Fan Error when I booted it up after installation but my temps were good and I could feel the pump Vibrating and my temps were Okay so I felt that It had to be the splitter. My motherboard has CPU, CPU Opt, ChassisFan 1,2,3 headers so I took the PWM Splitter out of the loop and set it up like this

PUMP - CPU Fan Header + Sata for Power
Swiftech Fan 1 - CPU OPT Header
Swiftech Fan 2 - Chassis Fan 1
Rear 140mm Fan on CM Stryker - Chassis Fan 2
PWM Splitter Only Sata Power connected and Apogee XL LED connected to one of the PWM headers.

All the fans and the Waterblock LED Work Fine and I can control them through BIOS or SpeedFan but I'm concerned I might draw too much current from my Mobo and wreck it by driving two 120 mm and 1 140 mm fans from it. Its a Maximus VI Hero. Is that possible or am I worrying too much. Right now The only thing the PWM Splitter is doing is relaying power to my waterblock LED. Is their a way I can take the PWM Splitter out of the loop completely and Power up the LED through something Else (Perhaps a LED Header on Motherboard or Tapping into the LED Wires on the Case LEDs. Will a Direct Connector that I can make from Taking a SATA Power Female And only using V+ and ground from it to a LED Female Connector work?)
post #16012 of 20723
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mega Man View Post

nah

swiftech has had the best mounting for years * SEE MARTINS LIQUID LAB * now at https://martinsliquidlab.wordpress.com/
https://martinsliquidlab.wordpress.com/2013/01/27/swiftech-h220-prefilled-2x120mm-water-cooling-kit/5/
Quote:
Swiftech has always been a leader in regards to easy and precision retention systems and has been incorporating really great designs for quite some time
Quote:
https://martinsliquidlab.wordpress.com/2012/03/22/i7-3930k-cpu-swiftech-apogee-hd/2/
The Swiftech Mounting System is the simply the ultimate 2011 mounting system out there by a long shot, prescribed pressure + 1 component easy mount!
however it just has a learning curve ( maybe add the mounting instructions to the OP of the h220 club ? )

really easy, either temporarily tape ( electrical tape works ok ) the back plate in or, as i do either take a rag/towel/pillow behind the mobo/mobo tray and lay it on the rag/towel/pillow then screw it in, i can mount a swiftech block in less then 1 min

FYI i hate the tape method !~

this works for both AMD and intel.

Edited by Mega Man - 5/17/15 at 11:43pm
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post #16013 of 20723
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mega Man View Post


Thanks. I didn't find it as simple but i'll give it a try when I change TIM a few months later. Can you help me out a bit on the PWM Splitter issue? How can I fix it or take it out of the loop and still power my Waterblock LED.
post #16014 of 20723
Quote:
Originally Posted by kurei View Post

Thanks. I didn't find it as simple but i'll give it a try when I change TIM a few months later. Can you help me out a bit on the PWM Splitter issue? How can I fix it or take it out of the loop and still power my Waterblock LED.

check your cables that came with your power supply. Mine came with a molex to 4pin PWM fan connector adapter
post #16015 of 20723
Quote:
Originally Posted by t1337dude View Post
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by msgclb View Post

I’m sad to announce that the pump on my H220 that I purchased just over two years ago has failed.
This H220 has been running almost constantly since it was originally installed in 2013 but I’ve now removed the unit and installed an air cooler.
Could you give any details about the failure? Was it something that happened all at once? Or was the pump behaving oddly before it went out? I'm just curious so I know what to look for in case if it were to happen to myself.


This is the non-X original H220 that had been running without any problems until I noticed the CPU temp go sky high. Using my fingers I couldn't feel any pump vibration so I booted to BIOS and saw the CPU fan header was 0 RPM. Right now it's sitting on a table until I decide what to do with it!

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post #16016 of 20723
Quote:
Originally Posted by msgclb View Post


This is the non-X original H220 that had been running without any problems until I noticed the CPU temp go sky high. Using my fingers I couldn't feel any pump vibration so I booted to BIOS and saw the CPU fan header was 0 RPM. Right now it's sitting on a table until I decide what to do with it!


Mine just went out over the weekend too.
post #16017 of 20723
Quote:
Originally Posted by msgclb View Post


This is the non-X original H220 that had been running without any problems until I noticed the CPU temp go sky high. Using my fingers I couldn't feel any pump vibration so I booted to BIOS and saw the CPU fan header was 0 RPM. Right now it's sitting on a table until I decide what to do with it!

Interesting. I'm sorry for your loss.

I'm suspecting I'm experiencing a completely different pump issue. It's not with the pump directly, but for me it has to be with its connections or maybe wiring. I don't know what else the possibility it is if it's interfering with any non-Swiftech fans attempting to share the PWM signal. Tested it with a simple Y-Splitter. Even the Noctua NF-S12A, which uses a quarter of the power of the Helix 140, mysteriously sticks to 0% PWM with the pump plugged in. I really wish I knew why other people are having no issues using non-Swiftech fans. I suppose I could try buying the very specific models cited here, but I'm pretty sure most of their fans use the same PWM technology and it wouldn't make a difference. And even if I did buy a regular NF-A14 and I confirmed it didn't work either - then what do I do? Kick rocks? tongue.gif
post #16018 of 20723
Quote:
Originally Posted by t1337dude View Post

Interesting. I'm sorry for your loss.

I'm suspecting I'm experiencing a completely different pump issue. It's not with the pump directly, but for me it has to be with its connections or maybe wiring. I don't know what else the possibility it is if it's interfering with any non-Swiftech fans attempting to share the PWM signal. Tested it with a simple Y-Splitter. Even the Noctua NF-S12A, which uses a quarter of the power of the Helix 140, mysteriously sticks to 0% PWM with the pump plugged in. I really wish I knew why other people are having no issues using non-Swiftech fans. I suppose I could try buying the very specific models cited here, but I'm pretty sure most of their fans use the same PWM technology and it wouldn't make a difference. And even if I did buy a regular NF-A14 and I confirmed it didn't work either - then what do I do? Kick rocks? tongue.gif

Can you send me a PM about this?
post #16019 of 20723
Quote:
Originally Posted by kurei View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mega Man View Post


Thanks. I didn't find it as simple but i'll give it a try when I change TIM a few months later. Can you help me out a bit on the PWM Splitter issue? How can I fix it or take it out of the loop and still power my Waterblock LED.

i dont see an issue, sorry -

all you need is to supply 12vdc and ground , dont need it attached to anything else as suggested sata/fat 4 pin ( mistakenly called molex, really mate n lok ) to 4 pin fan

GENERALLY ~~~ 1a per header is normal rating, and 1 fan on each is not a big deal, anything connected to the pwm splitter is pulling amps from the psu directly, not through the mobo, and to add the LED in the waterblock pulls like micro amps !~
Edited by Mega Man - 5/18/15 at 8:20pm
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post #16020 of 20723
If I added a sperate res into my h220x loop would it help with bleeding?
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