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post #1661 of 20731
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sp33d Junki3 View Post

What is your ambient temps like?
What speed are the fans and pump running at?
Are you using stock fans or other fans?
You using push/pull or just pull or push?

Here in Portugal now is Spring so the ambient temps are around 25º.
My fans are Bequiet! SilentWings 2 in push/pull on both radiators and they ar running at 1540RPM (MAX).
The Pump is actually running at 2500RPM.
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post #1662 of 20731
Quote:
Originally Posted by Silvaire View Post

Hi, I'm new to water-cooling but am an experienced system builder.

I'm about to revamp my existing computer's cooling by purchasing a Fractal Designs Define R4. I was wondering if the H220 would work fine as a front intake there instead of in the common spot on top as either an exhaust or intake? Is the hose long enough to connect to the CPU comfortably from the front instead of the top? Is this a wise cooling scheme?

I will be removing both HD cages as I only use one SSD drive in my desktops (I have a server).

My goal eventually is to put the H220 in the front as intakes in a push or pull, rear exhaust, and then figure out if I need extra fans: exhaust top, intake side, or intake bottom. Right now I have a reference 6870 that is not OC'ed that is the normal blower type, but I am planning for the future and will upgrade to the next-gen GFX line, probably an aftermarket design that dumps heat into the case because they are quieter.

Thanks!

if the tubes are not long enough you can always install longer tubing to make it long enough.
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post #1663 of 20731
Question:

I am aware that setting the fans as intake to blow fresh air through the RAD is better for CPU temps. However This increases my GPU temps, case temps (side panel feels warm), memory, VRM's as I only have one exhaust fan in the machine. As well, the video card exhausts hot air inside the case, plus the hot air from the H220... it's just not the best mix. Is there any way I could make this work? Right now I just have the H220 as exhaust however due to the video card's hot air rising and heating up the rad, raises CPU temps about 8c while simultaneously loading the GPU (air cooled) and CPU. Each one by itself gets amazing temps however...

The only solution I found is to keep the side panel off, but that's far from optimal.

I am using the switch 810 with standard fan config.
Edited by Scorpion667 - 4/18/13 at 1:38pm
    
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post #1664 of 20731
I would prefer knowing ahead of time so that I'm not stuck with a partially complete build. Furthermore, I have no experience with actual water cooling, so if adding longer tubes ventures into that territory (like, say for example, having to drain the fluid--I have no idea what is involved), that would be a definite negative for me.
post #1665 of 20731
Quote:
Originally Posted by Julsmba View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by Sp33d Junki3 View Post

What is your ambient temps like?
What speed are the fans and pump running at?
Are you using stock fans or other fans?
You using push/pull or just pull or push?

Here in Portugal now is Spring so the ambient temps are around 25º.
My fans are Bequiet! SilentWings 2 in push/pull on both radiators and they ar running at 1540RPM (MAX).
The Pump is actually running at 2500RPM.

Only issue I see the the fans. The design is not good for rads, as the shape do not give a good seal around rads, square layout.
What you can try is get some Phobya 10mm gaskets to help seal the gaps from the fans. There is 3mm, 5mm and 7mm ones. This will help lower dead spot and maybe keep a more steady temp line.


The H220 is low FPI, so current fans are fine. Other rad not known? Set to intake or exhaust?
But with your ambient temps currently rising, it will be harder to keep temps lower.
    
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post #1666 of 20731
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sp33d Junki3 View Post

Only issue I see the the fans. The design is not good for rads, as the shape do not give a good seal around rads, square layout.
What you can try is get some Phobya 10mm gaskets to help seal the gaps from the fans. There is 3mm, 5mm and 7mm ones. This will help lower dead spot and maybe keep a more steady temp line.


The H220 is low FPI, so current fans are fine. Other rad not known? Set to intake or exhaust?
But with your ambient temps currently rising, it will be harder to keep temps lower.

Well I like my temps actually, I don't think that their hot.
I buy 6 SilentWings2 for about 7€ each. here there are about 20€ to 25€ each. I think they are making the job...
oh and the other rad is placed at the bottom push/pull as intake and it's a Black Ice SR-1 120.
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post #1667 of 20731
Quote:
Originally Posted by Scorpion667 View Post

Question:

I am aware that setting the fans as intake to blow fresh air through the RAD is better for temps. However This heats up my video card backplate, case, memory, VRM's as I only have one exhaust fan in the machine. As well, the video card exhaust hot air inside the case, plus the hot air from the H220... it's just not the best mix. Is there any way I could make this work? Right now I just have the H220 as exhaust however due to the video card's hot air rising and heating up the rad, raises CPU temps about 8c while simultaneously loading the GPU (air cooled) and CPU. Each one by itself gets amazing temps however...

The only solution I found is to keep the side panel off, but that's far from optimal.

I am using the switch 810 with standard fan config.

I would say your best bet would be get another rad and put your GPU in the loop as well. Unless you have the front cages fully populated with disks. Short of that, unless you're having lots of issues you could add an additional fan on the inside of the case to move the hot air back towards the exhaust. The best solution would still be to use the h220 as intake, imo.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Silvaire View Post

I would prefer knowing ahead of time so that I'm not stuck with a partially complete build. Furthermore, I have no experience with actual water cooling, so if adding longer tubes ventures into that territory (like, say for example, having to drain the fluid--I have no idea what is involved), that would be a definite negative for me.

We have a bunch of videos put together by Bram (Bryan @ swiftech) which walks you through the entire process of expanding the loop. This would show you everything you need to know, and everything you need to get in order to change the length of your tubing.

I'll see about getting a list of the links together and then having phelan put it in the first post.
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post #1668 of 20731
Quote:
Originally Posted by Scorpion667 View Post

Question:

I am aware that setting the fans as intake to blow fresh air through the RAD is better for CPU temps. However This increases my GPU temps, case temps (side panel feels warm), memory, VRM's as I only have one exhaust fan in the machine. As well, the video card exhausts hot air inside the case, plus the hot air from the H220... it's just not the best mix. Is there any way I could make this work? Right now I just have the H220 as exhaust however due to the video card's hot air rising and heating up the rad, raises CPU temps about 8c while simultaneously loading the GPU (air cooled) and CPU. Each one by itself gets amazing temps however...

The only solution I found is to keep the side panel off, but that's far from optimal.

I am using the switch 810 with standard fan config.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Avonosac View Post

I would say your best bet would be get another rad and put your GPU in the loop as well. Unless you have the front cages fully populated with disks. Short of that, unless you're having lots of issues you could add an additional fan on the inside of the case to move the hot air back towards the exhaust. The best solution would still be to use the h220 as intake, imo.

I have to agree with Avonosac here. If you have room the optimal place to put another fan would be at the bottom, and have it pulling air into the case and onto your graphics card. This should bring your graphic card's temperature down and allow you to keep your H220 rad set up as an intake. The Switch 810 has lots of options, so if that one doesn't work for you there is likely one that will.
post #1669 of 20731
Alright....so...now that I'm finally getting into really wanting to watercool my pc, I have a HAF-X case, an i7-2700k @ 4.7 (most days), and (currently) 2 gigabyte 7970's that are probably going to be sold off for 7950's on 7970 reference pcb...should i go full custom or expand the H220?
post #1670 of 20731
Quote:
Originally Posted by Scorpion667 View Post

Question:

I am aware that setting the fans as intake to blow fresh air through the RAD is better for CPU temps. However This increases my GPU temps, case temps (side panel feels warm), memory, VRM's as I only have one exhaust fan in the machine. As well, the video card exhausts hot air inside the case, plus the hot air from the H220... it's just not the best mix. Is there any way I could make this work? Right now I just have the H220 as exhaust however due to the video card's hot air rising and heating up the rad, raises CPU temps about 8c while simultaneously loading the GPU (air cooled) and CPU. Each one by itself gets amazing temps however...

The only solution I found is to keep the side panel off, but that's far from optimal.

I am using the switch 810 with standard fan config.

I'm finding my configuration with the RAD mounted in the front of my case is pretty efficient in keeping my system cool at idle and under load. My SLI GPUs also idle around 28C and stay way below 70C under load. Now that the weather here is warming up, at idle my delidded 3570K's hottest core sits at 27C (coolest temp I ever recorded was 14C). Under load hottest core hit's 71C then levels off at 58-60C. I documented the whole install process on my 300R case mod thread. Part 4 shows my idle and load temps on that day.

I favor 140mm fans over 120s bc they're much quieter because of lower RPMs and in most cases move more air than most 120mm that run at higher RPMs. But the Swiftech helix fans are dead quite. The one SP120 I have is by far the nosiest fan in my case even with a resistor.

Find out if your cases' front panel can accommodate a rad and buy some fans and set up for exhaust up top. My 300R had to be modded, but your case has modular HDD cages so should be a bit more simple to judge.
 
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