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Swiftech H220/H320/H220X/H240X/H140X and CM Glacer 240L/360L Owners' Club - Page 168

post #1671 of 20809
Quote:
Originally Posted by Diablo85 View Post

Alright....so...now that I'm finally getting into really wanting to watercool my pc, I have a HAF-X case, an i7-2700k @ 4.7 (most days), and (currently) 2 gigabyte 7970's that are probably going to be sold off for 7950's on 7970 reference pcb...should i go full custom or expand the H220?

This is a great question. Here's what it comes down to. It's essentially about looks and cost at this point. It's also about the time frame that you're looking at for adding your cards into your loop. If you want to get your feet wet by just cooling your CPU for now and then add your cards into the loop later, then I would suggest going with the H220 because it will give the easiest way to do this. It's also the most cost effective. If you're planning to do it all at once, and price isn't an issue, then going with a full-custom loop right from the start might be the better way to go. In terms of looks you might prefer the look of the H220 over other CPU water blocks, then basically you've already made your choice. In terms of performance, there is very little difference between having a custom loop with an H220 kit, and a custom loop with separate blocks, pumps, radiators, and a reservoir. The cost does favor the H220 in this case as well. I hope this answers your question.
post #1672 of 20809
Quote:
Originally Posted by BramSLI1 View Post


I have to agree with Avonosac here. If you have room the optimal place to put another fan would be at the bottom, and have it pulling air into the case and onto your graphics card. This should bring your graphic card's temperature down and allow you to keep your H220 rad set up as an intake. The Switch 810 has lots of options, so if that one doesn't work for you there is likely one that will.

I have a side panel 140mm fan blowing directly on my GPUs and for me the jury is still out on whether bottom or side mounted fans help with GPU temps to any noticeable degree. rolleyes.gif granted it's the stock 140mm fan. But I'm not convinced yet. tongue.gif feel free to beat me up about this biggrin.gif
 
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post #1673 of 20809
put the video cards under water and the problem is solved biggrin.gif

my 670 reference cooler spouted hot air into the case through the gap in the shroud for the SLI bridge. But now that i have that under water in case temps have never been cooler. literally the only heat generating things are CPU VRM and hard drives. I have a 200mm feeding air through the front and exhausting the still cool air from inside out through the rads.

my 670 dropped 20C going water as well.

lol The h220 is such an enabling device...i swore to keep it stock for at least a while but less than 2 months later i already modded it. redface.gif Definitely something you want to get if you have any inclination of going custom. thumb.gif
Edited by ez12a - 4/18/13 at 2:29pm
 
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post #1674 of 20809
Quote:
Originally Posted by ez12a View Post

put the video cards under water and the problem is solved biggrin.gif

my 670 reference cooler spouted hot air into the case through the gap in the shroud for the SLI bridge. But now that i have that under water in case temps have never been cooler. literally the only hot things are CPU VRM and hard drives. I have a 200mm feeding air through the front and exhausting the still cool air from inside out through the rads.

my 670 dropped 20C going water as well.

lol The h220 is such an enabling device...i swore to keep it stock for at least a while but less than 2 months later i already modded it. redface.gif Definitely something you want to get if you have any inclination of going custom. thumb.gif

Yea, I have great case temps in my prodigy as well, and it is basically all intake with 2 MCR-220-QP rads. 1 being the rad coming as part of the H220. Nothing in the case is cool, the highest temp after 7 days of folding I've seen is 95C cpu and 51C gpu. This is in a room with effectively no fresh air eventually warming everything up.

Normal gaming / or decent airflow in the room temps put my CPU at 75C~ and GPU at 40/41C.
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post #1675 of 20809
Quote:
Originally Posted by Julsmba View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by Sp33d Junki3 View Post

Only issue I see the the fans. The design is not good for rads, as the shape do not give a good seal around rads, square layout.
What you can try is get some Phobya 10mm gaskets to help seal the gaps from the fans. There is 3mm, 5mm and 7mm ones. This will help lower dead spot and maybe keep a more steady temp line.


The H220 is low FPI, so current fans are fine. Other rad not known? Set to intake or exhaust?
But with your ambient temps currently rising, it will be harder to keep temps lower.

Well I like my temps actually, I don't think that their hot.
I buy 6 SilentWings2 for about 7€ each. here there are about 20€ to 25€ each. I think they are making the job...
oh and the other rad is placed at the bottom push/pull as intake and it's a Black Ice SR-1 120.

Not say dont use the fans you have. Myself wont use on a rad unless a good seal is in place.
The only part coming in contact is the round frame, which will lower the airflow through. As either coming from around the fan.
Your temps will get higher as ambient goes up. I would make the H220 intake and Black ice bottom exhaust or intake.
    
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post #1676 of 20809
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sp33d Junki3 View Post

Not say dont use the fans you have. Myself wont use on a rad unless a good seal is in place.
The only part coming in contact is the round frame, which will lower the airflow through. As either coming from around the fan.
Your temps will get higher as ambient goes up. I would make the H220 intake and Black ice bottom exhaust or intake.

Yes i can put the H220 as an intake but will it do big difference?
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post #1677 of 20809
Well you have to try and test. If you can try to use different fans like the ones that come with the H220 or different ones with a square frame or similar.
    
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post #1678 of 20809
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sp33d Junki3 View Post

Well you have to try and test. If you can try to use different fans like the ones that come with the H220 or different ones with a square frame or similar.

Well for the fans i do like this ones and for now they will do the job because if i want to change them i will need to buy 6 new fans or 4 helix pwm fans.
I will test to put the H220 as an intake to see the diference and post it here. wink.gif
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post #1679 of 20809
Quote:
Originally Posted by BramSLI1 View Post

This is a great question. Here's what it comes down to. It's essentially about looks and cost at this point. It's also about the time frame that you're looking at for adding your cards into your loop. If you want to get your feet wet by just cooling your CPU for now and then add your cards into the loop later, then I would suggest going with the H220 because it will give the easiest way to do this. It's also the most cost effective. If you're planning to do it all at once, and price isn't an issue, then going with a full-custom loop right from the start might be the better way to go. In terms of looks you might prefer the look of the H220 over other CPU water blocks, then basically you've already made your choice. In terms of performance, there is very little difference between having a custom loop with an H220 kit, and a custom loop with separate blocks, pumps, radiators, and a reservoir. The cost does favor the H220 in this case as well. I hope this answers your question.

The issue with getting my feet wet with the H220 on the cpu though, is that when i do decide on a full custom (or expand the loop), ill have to mod the HAF-X to accommodate the 220 rad + a 360mm rad or sell off the 220 as 240mm of rad. wouldn't be enough to adequately cool the cpu + 2 gpu's would it?
post #1680 of 20809
Quote:
Originally Posted by Julsmba View Post

Yes i can put the H220 as an intake but will it do big difference?

All things in the case being equal, if you have enough exhaust and the airflow is not incredibly restricted in the case, you generally want every radiator to be intake. The way they cool is by heating up the air passing through them, if you have hotter air passing through the radiator, it has less cooling potential. In some cases, if you're passing hot enough air through the radiator, it can actually act as a heating agent to the rest of the loop.

Remember in thermodynamics the heat will just try to dissipate, it doesn't care what your intentions are for the loop. If the air is hot enough, it will raise the water temperature, not lower it.
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