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Swiftech H220/H320/H220X/H240X/H140X and CM Glacer 240L/360L Owners' Club - Page 172

post #1711 of 20809
Just an update on wizardonthejob's status. It appears that there are some trapped air bubbles or an air pocket that is causing his issue. I've been on the phone with him to try and help him resolve it, but for those that have experience using this kit in a custom loop your help would be much appreciated. It does sound like he is still having an issue bleeding the air out of his loop.
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post #1712 of 20809
Hi, today I put my H220 fans as intake and i gain about 3-4ºC, so I'm happy and i want to thank the users that say me to do that wink.gif

Now I'm going to play some BF3 and see the temps smile.gif
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post #1713 of 20809
Quote:
Originally Posted by Martinm210 View Post

IMHO, I generally don't trust any MB fan header to directly power much more than a single slow speed fan. Take a look at how small the traces are in your motherboard leading up to the header (wimpy to say the least). Most are really not meant for powering heavy duty items. An 1800rpm GT only draws 1 watt, so connecting the h220 pump directly to the MB is like stringing 6 1800rpm fans onto your one cpu fan header..I just wouldn't do that when the kits comes with a splitter designed to pull power direct from the PSU.

Why risk running a high powered device through the MB when the kit provides a PWM splitter that draws heavy duty regulated quality 12v direct from the PSU? If you use the splitter, you can be sure to feed the pump 12v and there is no risk of exceeding fan header specs. You also give your motherboard a break and only pull PWM signal from the motherboard which is easy work.

Running direct off the MB is an unnecessary risk, use the provided splitter and feed the pump good quality regulated direct 12v power from the PSU.thumb.gif

You can also connect an 18w DDC (pmp400 comes with a 3pin fan header) off a motherboard fan header. Just because something mechanically works doesn't mean it's a good idea. Too many varied motherboards out there, powering pumps off of motherboards is not something I would suggest to anyone for any pump..too many unknowns and completely unnecessary with the h220 with the provided splitter which draws from the molex PSU. It may work for some high end board, but why bother with a PWM device that can draw directly from the PSU.

There is good reason your VGA card has a power supply direct feed. It's like a freeway of power where the MB is like a maze of downtown congested streets with poorly timed signals. Don't make your pump fight that congestion, give her the same benefit you give your VGA card..PSU power via the provided splitter..smile.gif

I get it, the whole reason I was trying to remove the splitter is the need for a 2nd splitter. I have 2 MCR-220-QPs essentially and the 4 helix on them is more than enough to handle the cooling, problem is when the fans spin down to where I want them to idel, the pump is very audible, and its moving the coolant much faster than is necessary in my very small loop. H220->h220 rad -> 220-QP -> ek titan block -> h220. I only have 1 true PWM header so I'm kinda screwed until I get my z77e-itx back in working order. So the issue is looking for a way to power and control the pump and the fans without having to add 2 very large (in SFF terms) splitters into the mix.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Julsmba View Post

Hi, today I put my H220 fans as intake and i gain about 3-4ºC, so I'm happy and i want to thank the users that say me to do that wink.gif

Now I'm going to play some BF3 and see the temps smile.gif

Cheers mate! Enjoy! cheers.gif

Quote:
Originally Posted by BramSLI1 View Post

Just an update on wizardonthejob's status. It appears that there are some trapped air bubbles or an air pocket that is causing his issue. I've been on the phone with him to try and help him resolve it, but for those that have experience using this kit in a custom loop your help would be much appreciated. It does sound like he is still having an issue bleeding the air out of his loop.

If the loop is non standard in ANY way, I had trouble completely bleeding the pump. I was throwing my prodigy around for about an hour, while the pump was on shaking it and tapping everywhere an air bubble might be caught. After I did that, while the pump was running I tilted the air the case "up" following the directions of my loop. The internal flow of my GPU was nearly a full flip, I continued to work that entire direction twice through, until I got all the air out of the pump. Sealed everything up and I haven't had an issue since.

What really seemed to help for me was when I had the pump on and upside down. For some reason I think there might be a capture point in the pump near the top of the cap which can hold air, despite being at the full 3000 rpms. Good luck, and I sincerely hope it helps you and you resolve your issues.
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post #1714 of 20809
same. bleeding my second pump was a task and a half. it seems like its very easy to get air trapped in the pump that requires shaking the pump itself to get it loose. I had my pump mounted and even with the radiator as high as it could go with a straight path to the inlet, the air was still stuck making a warbling noise, though fluid was flowing.

it would make sense to have the pump upside down in order to get all of the bubbles out of the unit. If I understand the design of the pump, it seems like air can get trapped in the cylindrical housing where the magnet/impeller sits.
Edited by ez12a - 4/19/13 at 1:50pm
 
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post #1715 of 20809
While time consuming, bleeding my loop with the H220 pump, stock rad, additional 320 rad, and a full cover gpu block was not that hard for me. I did the whole thing outside the case. I had it setup with the top rad positioned above the pump while doing this.

Fill up the loop, turn on the pump for a second, and just keep doing that until you can’t get any more coolant in the res of the top rad. Then start picking up and moving/slightly shaking each component to help to move the air bubbles.

Then it is just a matter of time with turning off the pump, wait for air to settle for a minute, then turn the pump back on. Turning the pump off, waiting a minute, then turning it back on gave me better results than just leaving the pump running for an extended time. While doing that you can pick up and move around all the components to help it along. All this was possible because the whole loop was outside the case.

Installing the entire filled loop as one unit was a little tricky but once I figured out how to do it, it was not that big of a deal. I laid my case down and carefully laid each component down where it would go or as close as possible, then just started installing one component at a time.

I used the long screws that go through the fans into the rad, and holding a fan and rad with one hand while screwing in the long screws doesn’t really work. To make it easier, I took one short fan screw to hold each fan in place with the case. With the fans in place I could put the rad on top of them then screw in the long screws where I didn’t have the short fan screws, then took out the short fan screws and put a long screw in.
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post #1716 of 20809
What's the correct size tubing to match the original, 3/8 ID - 1/2 OD?
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post #1717 of 20809
Thread Starter 
3/8"x5/8"
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post #1718 of 20809
For those who have been waiting on these to hit the egg......ITS HERE biggrin.gif

http://www.newegg.com/Product/ProductList.aspx?Submit=ENE&N=100008008%2050001437&IsNodeId=1&name=Swiftech%20Inc.

ORDERED biggrin.gif
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post #1719 of 20809
Quote:
Originally Posted by navit View Post

For those who have been waiting on these to hit the egg......ITS HERE biggrin.gif

http://www.newegg.com/Product/ProductList.aspx?Submit=ENE&N=100008008%2050001437&IsNodeId=1&name=Swiftech%20Inc.

ORDERED biggrin.gif

Better hurry. These won't last long! thumb.gif
 
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post #1720 of 20809
Bleeding just the kit wasn't too bad, but no experience trying to bleed a more complex loop. I did hook up the pump and block to my pump rig though and came up with this:

swiftech-h220-pq01b.png

With just the kit rad you are probably seeing around .6-.7GPM. With a typical GPU plus extra rad, you probably will see around .5-.6GPM as an estimate. DIY guys typically shoot for 1GPM for super easy bleeding, but I think bleeding is still doable down to about .4GPM. Not 1GPM easy, but .5GPM doable with some work.
Edited by Martinm210 - 4/19/13 at 7:53pm
    
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