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Swiftech H220/H320/H220X/H240X/H140X and CM Glacer 240L/360L Owners' Club - Page 1716

post #17151 of 20830
Quote:
Originally Posted by TK421 View Post

offtopic: my 970g1 used to pull 1599 on air tongue.gif

Nice one, well could be my cards thermals pads on the WRM's didn't cover enough giving my card some unstability, but lol at 1599 mhz on with the Windforce that core must have been hot as hell biggrin.gif

(btw did have my card OC'ed to 1590 mhz but then it started artifacting so backed it of to a stable everyday OC)
Edited by Bear304 - 9/26/15 at 7:38am
post #17152 of 20830
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bear304 View Post

Nice one, well could be my cards thermals pads on the WRM's didn't cover enough giving my card some unstability, but lol at 1599 mhz on with the Windforce that core must have been hot as hell biggrin.gif

(btw did have my card OC'ed to 1590 mhz but then it started artifacting so backed it of to a stable everyday OC)

I have 17w/mk thermal pad on the VRM and VRAM.

Core on NH-T1 thermal paste.
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post #17153 of 20830
Well.. Cleaning my H320 proved to be very very necessary lol..

This was the condition of the block after ~ 2 years of continuous usage..



Cleaned it completely with a soft brush and made it shine again tongue.gif

Also flushed the rad and pump with demineralized water (got it from the local autoparts shop) and refilled the unit with the same demineralized water + some biocide just to be sure lol.

After some proper bleeding of the air and refilling + leak testing I can safely say she's running very well again.

Some temp results on a quick heat test w/ Prime95 27.9 AVX running a 10GB RAM Blend with 2 minute intervals on the FFT's to make it run as much as possible scenario's to simulate different heat output. I know these settings for the OC are stable anyway so yeah thumb.gif



CPU is delidded with CLU on the IHS - Die. Block to IHS is done with Prolimatech PK-1. Rad has 6x 120mm Noiseblocker XL-P 2000RPM PWM controlled fans on it with the Swiftech PWM splitter. Running at about 80-90% speed i'm guessing at these temps as they are set to 100% @ 80c.

Oh and before you ask, as this is a overclocking forum so people will always comment on the overclock, Yes, the CPU IS this bad of an overclocker.. It needs baseclock adjusting and a whopping 1.480v in the BIOS (Offset, +0.275) to even run anywhere close to 5Ghz with HT on. It can't do it on 50x100 at all. No matter what the voltages are. For 4.8 she needs 1.396v and for 4.6 she needs 1.276v. That's why I use it as a daily driver in this rig as it's absolutely no good for benching haha.
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post #17154 of 20830
Write
Quote:
Originally Posted by Imprezzion View Post

Well.. Cleaning my H320 proved to be very very necessary lol..

This was the condition of the block after ~ 2 years of continuous usage..

my that was a dirty block is that the only block in the loop? I've cleaned my h220x block 3 times now most I've seen is some black shavings from cutting the tubes I didn't realize I hadn't cleaned out...was that the original coolant¿ Looks like it broke down a bit...
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post #17155 of 20830
Quote:
Originally Posted by Imprezzion View Post

Well.. Cleaning my H320 proved to be very very necessary lol..

This was the condition of the block after ~ 2 years of continuous usage..



Cleaned it completely with a soft brush and made it shine again tongue.gif

Also flushed the rad and pump with demineralized water (got it from the local autoparts shop) and refilled the unit with the same demineralized water + some biocide just to be sure lol.

After some proper bleeding of the air and refilling + leak testing I can safely say she's running very well again.

Some temp results on a quick heat test w/ Prime95 27.9 AVX running a 10GB RAM Blend with 2 minute intervals on the FFT's to make it run as much as possible scenario's to simulate different heat output. I know these settings for the OC are stable anyway so yeah thumb.gif



CPU is delidded with CLU on the IHS - Die. Block to IHS is done with Prolimatech PK-1. Rad has 6x 120mm Noiseblocker XL-P 2000RPM PWM controlled fans on it with the Swiftech PWM splitter. Running at about 80-90% speed i'm guessing at these temps as they are set to 100% @ 80c.

Oh and before you ask, as this is a overclocking forum so people will always comment on the overclock, Yes, the CPU IS this bad of an overclocker.. It needs baseclock adjusting and a whopping 1.480v in the BIOS (Offset, +0.275) to even run anywhere close to 5Ghz with HT on. It can't do it on 50x100 at all. No matter what the voltages are. For 4.8 she needs 1.396v and for 4.6 she needs 1.276v. That's why I use it as a daily driver in this rig as it's absolutely no good for benching haha.


do you live by Santa? OMG those idle temps blinksmiley.gif My stock 2700k with a H320 has never seen idle that low ...........
post #17156 of 20830
It only does that when booting Windows with Coretemp set to boot with Windows..

Actual idle temps are high 20's to low 30's with EIST on and high 30's to low 40's with EIST off. Ambient 20-21c.

And yeah, that was the only block in the loop for the last couple of months. Original coolant as well. I bought some extra HydrX PM 2.
I did at one point have a Koolance VID-NXTTN 780 block on it with a reference 780 but sold that pretty quickly again and that block was perfectly clean..

I honestly don't know what that stuff was, nor the yellow-ish flakes in it, but it works fine now tongue.gif

The GPU Idle temp is always 4c above ambient so.. tongue.gif It's cooled by a Accelero Hybrid II with custom housing and active aircooled VRM block. Does still have the stock rad and such for easy swapping graphics cards.

EDIT:

In-game temps for anyone who cares. (BF4 & WoT). GPU is running at about 58c constant even though it's getting half warm air from my CPU rad.


Edited by Imprezzion - 9/27/15 at 12:58pm
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post #17157 of 20830
On newer revision of the swiftech kits, what is replaced from the parts list that would prevent the water inside from clogging up eventually?

I suppose this "fix" was not fast enough to be implemented to Glacer models from cooler master?
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post #17158 of 20830
Quote:
Originally Posted by TK421 View Post

On newer revision of the swiftech kits, what is replaced from the parts list that would prevent the water inside from clogging up eventually?

I suppose this "fix" was not fast enough to be implemented to Glacer models from cooler master?

The tubing was changed to a plasticizer-free variety.
post #17159 of 20830
Quote:
Originally Posted by ciarlatano View Post

The tubing was changed to a plasticizer-free variety.

So if I buy the CM glacer, changing the tubes to, let's say, primochill tube. The gunk problem will not happen?
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post #17160 of 20830
So is it true cm lost the lawsuit with the patent troll?
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