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post #1761 of 20765
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sp33d Junki3 View Post


That is all good. Some modding the top and front to get it to fit. Just want a case to fit, mobo clearance varies.

Just want a case to fit 100% with not knowing 100% if clearance will be an issue. Then this would be the better value.
Arc Midi R2 $30 more and no issues.

I never said there was modding required to fit the h220 on the top. Ill post picture to prove I'm correct after I get my case and H220.

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post #1762 of 20765
Quote:
Originally Posted by BramSLI1 View Post

These should be available again in about three weeks, and shortly after that they'll be available regularly. This has been due to moving our production facility and then getting it running again.

hi there, i was just wondering, does this apply to europe too or are we due a sooner shipment by any chance?

thanks!
post #1763 of 20765
Does someone know about Raidmax cases compatibility with H220? They are fairly cheap, good airflow and good looking cases...
    
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post #1764 of 20765
Quote:
Originally Posted by justanoldman View Post

I always read your posts, and always find them informative. Just curious what you think is the reason that I can run it with the fill port pointed down without problems.

In one of my setups I have the H220 rad upside down at the top of my case, so the fans are below the rad. When I first got it I had it the standard way, and did the normal things to get any air out, then turned it over. I have zero trapped air noises or any issues.

I had to do this because it is an old TJ10 case that needs brackets to hold the res and fans. When installed with fans on top of the rad pushing in (which is the best way to go) I got a strange air crosscurrent sound that was annoying. If I placed my hand or piece of paper near the rad it would go away but normally it would produce an annoying whum, whum, whum sound. Switching the fans underneath for pull eliminated the sound. I didn’t have that problem with the Switch 810 so it was something specific with my old case.

I don't believe you'll have problems per say. It's just that once some liquid evaporates, the level will drop below the tube openings in the rad. This is when you may begin to hear the trickling noise. The lower the level gets, the more you'll hear it. With the res pointed up, it will take much longer for that level to drop down to the tube level.
 
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post #1765 of 20765
Quote:
Originally Posted by Avant Garde View Post

Does someone know about Raidmax cases compatibility with H220? They are fairly cheap, good airflow and good looking cases...
Raidmax cases are not good to get. They are cheap and more problems to use and airflow not so good.
If you want to fit the H220 without issues get the Fractal Arc Midi R2. Spend a little more over a cheap cases and you wont have problems asking if it will fit.
    
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post #1766 of 20765
Sold out in a few hours. Have to keep my eyes open again!
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post #1767 of 20765
Quote:
Originally Posted by ElementR View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by Sp33d Junki3 View Post

That is all good. Some modding the top and front to get it to fit. Just want a case to fit, mobo clearance varies.


Just want a case to fit 100% with not knowing 100% if clearance will be an issue. Then this would be the better value.
[URL=http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811352031
I never said there was modding required to fit the h220 on the top. Ill post picture to prove I'm correct after I get my case and H220.

You can barely at times fit the H100/H100i. This is due to height clearance in the 200R and varies on mobo, ram and mosfets. No proof needed.
Take a look here, unless you mount he fans outside the case should be ok.
http://www.hardocp.com/article/2013/01/07/corsair_carbide_series_200r_compact_atx_case_review/5#.UXLUHMq0csI
    
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post #1768 of 20765
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom Thumb View Post

I don't believe you'll have problems per say. It's just that once some liquid evaporates, the level will drop below the tube openings in the rad. This is when you may begin to hear the trickling noise. The lower the level gets, the more you'll hear it. With the res pointed up, it will take much longer for that level to drop down to the tube level.
Good thing it only take a minute to take the res out, open the fill port, and top it off. It will be interesting to see how long it goes before I hear anything.
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post #1769 of 20765
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sp33d Junki3 View Post

First off, if you are not 100% sure, please do not answer. Guessing will cause issue.
As for the 200R, it's ok, but would be better to spend an extra $30 for a case that can properly fit watercooling.
.
Avant Garde the Thermaltake Commander MS-III uses off set 120mm fans on top. Similar to the Fractal Arc Midi R2, which will clear the ram.
Not sure if the rear fan or I/O shield will be in the way.

Please head over to Switech site and look at the measurements diagram and do some measurements.
http://www.swiftech.com/H220.aspx#tab2

the problem is the major difference between the Midi R2 and the Thermaltake Commander MS-3 is width(looking from the front) specs wise, the Commander is rated 7.7" in width compared to the Fractal Design Arc Midi R2 which is 9.06"(which is a significant difference)

here's an image i used as a ratio test for the top, where red is approx 120mm(4.7") by hand and green is the size from red -> motherboard backplate to some extent
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

Its already a given that the MS-III specs wise is shorter height wise compared to the midi r2(MS-3 lacks even the top left cpu header hole) and will at the least hover over a portion of the top of the motherboard. It's whether the tallest part of the motherboard at the top(if you haev high profile heat spreaders, the pumps height if the cpu socket is father up north, the north bridge heatsinks height that will decide if the unit can fit in the green line(green line only accounted for backplate to some extent. it did not include the height of the motherboard standoffs) is the real question.
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post #1770 of 20765
So I have a permanent bubble in my pump. No matter what I do, No matter how I prime the system, no matter how long I let the pump sit and spin, The bubble is not going ANYWHERE. The pump just sits there and gurgles furiously. No amount of shaking, rattling, tapping, rotating anything is helping.




Any more ideas?

Do I just let it sit overnight and hope the bubble comes out?
Edited by WizardontheJob - 4/20/13 at 11:51am
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