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Swiftech H220/H320/H220X/H240X/H140X and CM Glacer 240L/360L Owners' Club - Page 1853

post #18521 of 20809
Quote:
Originally Posted by michael-ocn View Post

When I drain the existing liquid, i'll strain it thru a coffee filter to get an idea of what is in there, then i'll think about the inline filter while sys prepping.

There's a video add playing in the bottom left of my page now. Health Food Myths: Eating Late. I'm going to report it as "inappropriate" on the basis of ANY video add being inappropriate.

temporarily using a filter shouldn't hurt it in the short term and is not a bad idea. PPCS has a variety of sponge type filters. I used an old Swiftech micro-res with a sponge filter wedged in there at one time during a flush. just make sure it's AFTER the pump not before, restriction on intake is what really hurts pumps.
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post #18522 of 20809
Quote:
Originally Posted by ciarlatano View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by fusionxmikeyp View Post

Hopefully someone can help me with a question I have, I am really new to water cooling. I bought the H220 X2 and I am adding a GPU block and an additional 240 rad, my question would be loop order?

I was thinking from the H220 X2 to the other 240 rad then cpu, gpu back to the H220 X2, there are two connections on the H220 so which one would go to the other 240 rad?

I was thinking the fittings close to the pump would where the coolant returns to the reservoir?

I know it's a silly question but I would rather be safe then sorry, THANK YOU in advance for any help given!

The best order is the one that looks cleanest in the case. Liquid temp stabilizes through the loop and is not affected by loop order.
This is true but I would like to add the only exception is ( does not effect h220* ) is to make sure res is before pump and I mean directly,
Quote:
Originally Posted by Madmaxneo View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by s74r1 View Post

I would avoid anything primochill personally, but I haven't read much on that particular kit other than Mayhems arguments that they copied their cleaning kit. also most of those cleaning kits are just acids. vinegar is an acid and usually sufficient, but with any acids be careful not to leave it in the components too long, they will eat copper and brass. There was some threads awhile back about cleaning kits causing XSPC radiators to leak, but this was likely due to structural weak points they "patch up" after manufacturing. copper and brass tarnish but it hasn't shown any affect on temperatures. the reason you see blue or green fluid coming out after cleaning is due to the acids stripping away a very thin layer of the oxidated/tarnished metal. The most important part though is to dissolve any remaining tin or flux from radiators, and any particles that may remain. (I had many black particles come out of my Black Ice Nemesis L Xtreme). and if flushing from a previous coolant, flush many times with just water (be it distilled or de-ionized, or whatever. I usually flush from cheapest to most expensive but I'm OCD about cleanliness)

also, my post you quoted I edited quite a few times since then with more info.
Is there a decent guide somewhere that shows how to mix stuff like vinegar and water to clean out the system properly? Also one on mixing the additives and what not would be good....

I purchased the Primochill based on someone else's recommendation but I have not heard anything bad about it either. I do know I need to seriously clean out my H240-X as it is very cloudy in there.

I also need a good idea on how to install the inline tube fill and drain ports since I am not going to use a reservoir, any tutorials on that would be helpful also.. I would prefer not to have to take my whole waterloop out of my system just to drain and fill every once in awhile.

5% is plenty and Tbh even that isn't needed, hot water works fine.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Madmaxneo View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by michael-ocn View Post

I''ve got some sys prep coming my way too. I ordered the stuff for the same reason i got a coolant concentrate instead of trying to do a custom coolant mix with with ptnuke + antifreeze. I wouldn't know what to mix up myself that wouldn't damage stuff in the loop. I hoping it will kill any living organisms in the loop too. I'll be using the sys prep to clean and then a clear coolant concentrate provided by switftech to refill. Dango said its the same stuff that their aio kits are filled with.

Is putting a filter inline somewhere while running the cleaner thru the loop a good idea? To pick up any particles that the sys prep lifts? I have some sponge filter material i could wedge it into the res or into the line returning to the res.

[wonderful, maximally aggressive anti-ad-blocker policy now in force]
I would not recommend putting any kind of filter in your system as that will more than likely reduce the pressure produced by the pump and probably reduce the pump life at that. I believe it is a recommended practice to keep the line as free from any kind of obstruction as possible including inline flow meters.

Yeah I dislike the fact that they put the aggressive ads in here now. If they get to aggressive then I will simply have to forgot using this site. Putting them on the side is fine but when they start doing pop ups in the middle of the screen blocking whatever I was reading and/or forcing me to click to close the ad is when I will draw the line. I think at that point the go to for stuff like this will have to be Tom's Hardware unless there is another good OC site out there.

This really isn't the case, filters are fine

Everything in your loop all add restriction. The big thing about restrictions is to make sure your loop has enough flow pumps/fans/motors are DESIGNED to have some restriction and it DOES NOT hurt them in any way (this is not addressing extremes like 100% restrictions just normal situations )
Edited by Mega Man - 2/28/16 at 7:04pm
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post #18523 of 20809
Quote:
Originally Posted by s74r1 View Post

temporarily using a filter shouldn't hurt it in the short term and is not a bad idea. PPCS has a variety of sponge type filters. I used an old Swiftech micro-res with a sponge filter wedged in there at one time during a flush. just make sure it's AFTER the pump not before, restriction on intake is what really hurts pumps.

Thnx for that tip!
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post #18524 of 20809
Because the tubes of the 240X2 are resting on my graphic card, I would like to cut the watertubes. Should I remove the radiator and waterblock to do this? And put some kinda water back in it?
post #18525 of 20809
OT: Anybody here with an nvidia gpu? We could use your help in the single gpu category of this nvidia vs amd benching competition.
http://www.overclock.net/t/1586140/3d-fanboy-competition-2016-nvidia-vs-amd
And if you have an amd gpu... nevermind.
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post #18526 of 20809
Quote:
Originally Posted by ronaldoz View Post

Because the tubes of the 240X2 are resting on my graphic card, I would like to cut the watertubes. Should I remove the radiator and waterblock to do this? And put some kinda water back in it?

Unless you want coolant leaking all over, I would definitely suggest removing the unit (and buying many rolls of paper towels). You'll likely need to top up the coolant a bit afterwards. distilled or de-ionized water should be fine unless you end up loosing more than about half the coolant, IMO. If you feel the need to replace it with another coolant, don't mix different coolant types - you should flush out the existing coolant first and completely replace it, as some coolants don't play nice together. also be careful not to run the pump dry if you find that you lost too much coolant, this will quickly wear it out (you'd have to keep adding more water or coolant and cycle the pump on/off to prime and bleed it if it gets very low.)

Also, a tip for disassembling a filled system; get some gloves and as soon as you remove the first tube - plug one or both of the ends with your thumb(s). It will reduce coolant leakage. Even better if you can wedge a plug in there quickly. Be aware of gravity too, to reduce leaking. The radiator/reservoir will likely want to push the coolant in one direction. Try not to introduce any additional dirt/dust/debris as well.

Edit: I have done this procedure with a system still installed, but it still makes a mess. If you don't intend to remove it, then place paper towels, plates, and/or bowls everywhere you can. Be careful not to cut too short or put too much pressure on the fittings with sharp bends - this can dislodge tubing from fittings in some cases, and it also strains the rotary seals on the fittings (and with all rotary fittings, rotate it as little as possible to prolong it's lifespan).
Edited by s74r1 - 2/28/16 at 9:12pm
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post #18527 of 20809
Quote:
Originally Posted by s74r1 View Post

Unless you want coolant leaking all over, I would definitely suggest removing the unit (and buying many rolls of paper towels). You'll likely need to top up the coolant a bit. distilled or de-ionized water should be fine.

Also, a tip for disassembling a filled system; get some gloves and as soon as you remove the first tube - plug one or both of the ends with your thumb(s). It will reduce coolant leakage. Even better if you can wedge a plug in there quickly. Be aware of gravity too, to reduce leaking. The radiator/reservoir will likely want to push the coolant in one direction.

Edit: I have done this procedure with a system still installed, but it still makes a mess. If you don't intend to remove it, then place paper towels, plates, and/or bowls everywhere you can.

Allright, great, thanks. I'll remove the whole unit and will need some water you mentioned. So after removing the first tube, should I take of my thumbs and leak all water into the sink? Should the resevoir be filled at the same place as dye could be put in? Could it be filled, without pumping meanwhile, just fill 100%? Then place it back into the case?

Something about the dye: could I put the (included) Mayhem dye in there after replacing the watertubes are done? There was some kinda discussion over here, about dye.. durability / potential 'damage' Too me that is too much technical informations at the moment. Before starting all this, I would like to order some new fittings too. Because of this, I got some time to gather more information. thumb.gif
post #18528 of 20809
Quote:
Originally Posted by michael-ocn View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by s74r1 View Post

temporarily using a filter shouldn't hurt it in the short term and is not a bad idea. PPCS has a variety of sponge type filters. I used an old Swiftech micro-res with a sponge filter wedged in there at one time during a flush. just make sure it's AFTER the pump not before, restriction on intake is what really hurts pumps.

Thnx for that tip!

?

it is a "loop" there really isnt a "before" the only "rule" about placement is again res>pump

the rest of the components do not matter,

i would make sure you get a "good" filter ( such as the aquacomputer filter )

again you need to make sure your loop flow is reasonable, and i will add NO you do not need a filter, for the most part it is useless, but some like it, and some feel better with one

i like it for looks ( the one i linked )
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post #18529 of 20809
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mega Man View Post

?

it is a "loop" there really isnt a "before" the only "rule" about placement is again res>pump

the rest of the components do not matter,

i would make sure you get a "good" filter ( such as the aquacomputer filter )

again you need to make sure your loop flow is reasonable, and i will add NO you do not need a filter, for the most part it is useless, but some like it, and some feel better with one

i like it for looks ( the one i linked )

That filter does look nice. I'm not going for a permanent installation, just something for very temporary use during a cleaning cycle. I've got various bits of aquatic foam filter on hand like this...

https://www.google.com/search?q=fluval+blue+foam&biw=1473&bih=1268&tbm=isch&imgil=Yv_h6d1KLYty1M%253A%253BMwZVnq1hV5ydZM%253Bhttp%25253A%25252F%25252Fwww.fluvalaquatics.com%25252Fca%25252Fproduct%25252FA236-106206-filter-bio-foam%25252F&source=iu&pf=m&fir=Yv_h6d1KLYty1M%253A%252CMwZVnq1hV5ydZM%252C_&usg=__K-XaFEa16gyeGaKihgTkwqaP1cc%3D&ved=0ahUKEwiKyMO2q5zLAhUO8mMKHVXwD0MQyjcIKQ&ei=VOTTVorOOI7kjwPV4L-YBA#imgrc=_

If it's looks straightforward enough, i'll try to put something in the line for the 12 hour cleaner run. I'll have a better idea of what's practical when i take it apart enough to replace the window. If it's not real easy, i'll skip it.
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post #18530 of 20809
Quote:
Originally Posted by ronaldoz View Post

Allright, great, thanks. I'll remove the whole unit and will need some water you mentioned. So after removing the first tube, should I take of my thumbs and leak all water into the sink? Should the resevoir be filled at the same place as dye could be put in? Could it be filled, without pumping meanwhile, just fill 100%? Then place it back into the case?

Something about the dye: could I put the (included) Mayhem dye in there after replacing the watertubes are done? There was some kinda discussion over here, about dye.. durability / potential 'damage' Too me that is too much technical informations at the moment. Before starting all this, I would like to order some new fittings too. Because of this, I got some time to gather more information. thumb.gif

well, I would try and preserve as much original coolant as you can unless you're intending on disassembling the entire thing, draining, and replacing with a coolant of some sort.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mega Man View Post

?

it is a "loop" there really isnt a "before" the only "rule" about placement is again res>pump

the rest of the components do not matter,

agreed res>pump always, but I was talking about a second spare reservoir I had laying around which i re-purposed with a filter sponge so my loop temporarily had two reservoirs. merely an example, the same could be done with any in-line filter. sorry for any confusion or misinformation this may have caused anyone. and I also agree I wouldn't run a filter full-time, but it can be useful initially when the loop is new or had it's coolant changed/flushed recently.
Edited by s74r1 - 2/29/16 at 12:53am
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