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post #18561 of 20809
Quote:
Originally Posted by ronaldoz View Post

Those are looking great and solid! Epensive tho.
Yes, I was thinking about that. So actually the airflow is not great. My current case got the same issue. Most cases I see, got closed front and top, at least the one with big windows in them. Maybe the Corsair Graphite 760T will be fine then..

If you are going that route, the Phanteks Pro M is the same chassis as the Evolv ATX with less airflow restriction - much better design and build than a 760T. Or, you could go bigger with the Enthoo Luxe or Pro. The 760T (or any Corsair case) doesn't come close to them.
post #18562 of 20809
Quote:
Originally Posted by ciarlatano View Post

If you are going that route, the Phanteks Pro M is the same chassis as the Evolv ATX with less airflow restriction - much better design and build than a 760T. Or, you could go bigger with the Enthoo Luxe or Pro. The 760T (or any Corsair case) doesn't come close to them.

Wow, thanks! I wonder why the Pro is that cheap. It's much cheaper but to me it looks better. Because the front got nice intake and I guess the airflow / cooling is great? The big windows will show all the watercooling components! In the end need to have place for 280mm at the top tho. Not sure if the Pro M will support that yet. The 760T is the most expensive of them tho. I like the Ethoo Luxe, but the windows is a bit small I guess (can't see the water resevoir) and I think the sides has too much lines in their design. So it will look a bit overdone to me.
post #18563 of 20809
Quote:
Originally Posted by ronaldoz View Post

Wow, thanks! I wonder why the Pro is that cheap. It's much cheaper but to me it looks better. Because the front got nice intake and I guess the airflow / cooling is great? The big windows will show all the watercooling components! In the end need to have place for 280mm at the top tho. Not sure if the Pro M will support that yet. The 760T is the most expensive of them tho. I like the Ethoo Luxe, but the windows is a bit small I guess (can't see the water resevoir) and I think the sides has too much lines in their design. So it will look a bit overdone to me.

The Pro M supports 280mm on top with no issue.

Of course the 760T is the most expensive - you need to pay sailboat tariff. Corsair cases are typically 30-50% higher than comparable models. Simple rule of thumb, if a Corsair case is selling for $150, you can likely get a much nicer case for $99.
post #18564 of 20809
Quote:
Originally Posted by ronaldoz View Post

Wow, thanks! I wonder why the Pro is that cheap. It's much cheaper but to me it looks better. Because the front got nice intake and I guess the airflow / cooling is great? The big windows will show all the watercooling components! In the end need to have place for 280mm at the top tho. Not sure if the Pro M will support that yet. The 760T is the most expensive of them tho. I like the Ethoo Luxe, but the windows is a bit small I guess (can't see the water resevoir) and I think the sides has too much lines in their design. So it will look a bit overdone to me.
Quote:
Originally Posted by ciarlatano View Post

The Pro M supports 280mm on top with no issue.

Of course the 760T is the most expensive - you need to pay sailboat tariff. Corsair cases are typically 30-50% higher than comparable models. Simple rule of thumb, if a Corsair case is selling for $150, you can likely get a much nicer case for $99.

Thanks! I guess the Pro M is the best option for me. Also: I don't need much space, just space for a big graphic card and 280mm radiator and some extra space for watercooling expansion (for cooling the GPU). This Pro M version got a bigger window I guess:


Edited by ronaldoz - 3/1/16 at 6:03am
post #18565 of 20809
So what do i need to clean and flush my H240-X? Ppl dont recommend vinegar cause of acrylic plastic part in the loop? Then what do i clean them with? Thx
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post #18566 of 20809
Quote:
Originally Posted by jincuteguy View Post

So what do i need to clean and flush my H240-X? Ppl dont recommend vinegar cause of acrylic plastic part in the loop? Then what do i clean them with? Thx

depends on dirty your loop is. if you're just changing coolant and it hasn't been running that long, running distilled through it a few times should be sufficient otherwise I guess look for some sort of loop cleaning kit which is safe for Acrylic. Personally I dislike those full-loop flush kits. they can never equal a full disassembly and cleaning. I also don't believe the full-loop cleaning kits are aggressive enough on radiators. it also cycles gunk around which could get trapped in tiny areas (unless you filter it). sorry, just voicing my personal opinions here - I've never used a full loop cleaning kit, and from what I've read; most of them are just marketing BS and don't do very much.

Edit: it may, however, help clean out any residual old coolant or flux/tin that may have been left in the radiator still. (my H240-X radiator was extremely dirty, and I can hear a piece of metal rattle around when I tilt it, but I no longer use it since I replaced every part except the Apogee XL over time and much cost).

if you're experienced in water cooling and intend on doing a full manual cleaning, the reservoir/pump can be removed with 2 screws near the fillport and a few under the reservoir, IIRC. I didn't need to break any warranty seals when doing this, as the pump was still attached to the reservoir. be careful of the O-Ring inbetween reservoir and radiator. after that, you can do the usual hot water/vinegar cleaning method for radiators, or a cleaning kit. the waterblock can be disassembled with screws on the bottom, but be careful of the large O-Ring on the outermost edge, and the small O-Ring that sits on top of the fins in the middle. you can then scrub with a toothbrush and some diluted vinegar or other acidic cleaner. careful not to strip the screws when reassembling the waterblock. the tubing can be cleaned with the old coathanger and wet cloth method if there's a noticeable buildup of stuff inside.

Edit2: Also, I definitely don't recommend this, but... it is possible to use these radiators as a standalone with separate pump and reservoir (the pump in these units will work with a MCP50x top, as they're nearly identical except for max rpm. you'll of course void any and all warranties if you can even obtain a MCP50x top to use on the MCP30). I had to plug the reservoir intake and converted the fillport to the inlet. eventually I replaced it though since it was far too dirty and had debris stuck in it I couldn't get out.


optionally the reservoir holding metal can be removed with a dremel if your case is a tight fit:

warranty definitely voided
Edited by s74r1 - 3/1/16 at 10:33am
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post #18567 of 20809
Quote:
Originally Posted by s74r1 View Post

depends on dirty your loop is. if you're just changing coolant and it hasn't been running that long, running distilled through it a few times should be sufficient otherwise I guess look for some sort of loop cleaning kit which is safe for Acrylic. Personally I dislike those full-loop flush kits. they can never equal a full disassembly and cleaning. I also don't believe the full-loop cleaning kits are aggressive enough on radiators. it also cycles gunk around which could get trapped in tiny areas (unless you filter it). sorry, just voicing my personal opinions here - I've never used a full loop cleaning kit, and from what I've read; most of them are just marketing BS and don't do very much.

Edit: it may, however, help clean out any residual old coolant or flux/tin that may have been left in the radiator still. (my H240-X radiator was extremely dirty, and I can hear a piece of metal rattle around when I tilt it, but I no longer use it since I replaced every part except the Apogee XL over time and much cost).

if you're experienced in water cooling and intend on doing a full manual cleaning, the reservoir/pump can be removed with 2 screws near the fillport and a few under the reservoir, IIRC. I didn't need to break any warranty seals when doing this, as the pump was still attached to the reservoir. be careful of the O-Ring inbetween reservoir and radiator. after that, you can do the usual hot water/vinegar cleaning method for radiators, or a cleaning kit. the waterblock can be disassembled with screws on the bottom, but be careful of the large O-Ring on the outermost edge, and the small O-Ring that sits on top of the fins in the middle. you can then scrub with a toothbrush and some diluted vinegar or other acidic cleaner. careful not to strip the screws when reassembling the waterblock. the tubing can be cleaned with the old coathanger and wet cloth method if there's a noticeable buildup of stuff inside.

Edit2: Also, I definitely don't recommend this, but... it is possible to use these radiators as a standalone with separate pump and reservoir (the pump in these units will work with a MCP50x top, as they're nearly identical except for max rpm. you'll of course void any and all warranties if you can even obtain a MCP50x top to use on the MCP30). I had to plug the reservoir intake and converted the fillport to the inlet. eventually I replaced it though since it was far too dirty and had debris stuck in it I couldn't get out.
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
optionally the reservoir holding metal can be removed with a dremel if your case is a tight fit: Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
warranty definitely voided

I am also new to this and will be dissaembling and adding my MB to my loop here soon enough. I am going to be using clear UV blue tubing (also adding some UV lights to the case). I have been using my H240-X for about 7 months now and the water is definitely cloudy. I was thinking of using a little vinegar but heard that hot water will work just fine. I was not going to run the pump while I do this because I will have everything out of the system and do not want to reinstall everything again. Is there a way to do run the pump for cleaning without reinstalling it into the system?
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post #18568 of 20809
Quote:
Originally Posted by Madmaxneo View Post

I am also new to this and will be dissaembling and adding my MB to my loop here soon enough. I am going to be using clear UV blue tubing (also adding some UV lights to the case). I have been using my H240-X for about 7 months now and the water is definitely cloudy. I was thinking of using a little vinegar but heard that hot water will work just fine. I was not going to run the pump while I do this because I will have everything out of the system and do not want to reinstall everything again. Is there a way to do run the pump for cleaning without reinstalling it into the system?

I have a spare psu from and a 10+ year old pc that i'll be using to run the pump outside of the case. It doesn't have sata cables coming out of it, but i have a molex to sata power adapter.
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post #18569 of 20809
Quote:
Originally Posted by Madmaxneo View Post

I am also new to this and will be dissaembling and adding my MB to my loop here soon enough. I am going to be using clear UV blue tubing (also adding some UV lights to the case). I have been using my H240-X for about 7 months now and the water is definitely cloudy. I was thinking of using a little vinegar but heard that hot water will work just fine. I was not going to run the pump while I do this because I will have everything out of the system and do not want to reinstall everything again. Is there a way to do run the pump for cleaning without reinstalling it into the system?

Of course. Connect it to the PSU, pull out your MB and CPU power cables. You can then start the PSU to power the pump by jumping pins on the MB connector as shown here - https://www.techinferno.com/index.php?/forums/topic/6642-guide-switching-on-an-atx-psu-using-the-paperclip-trick-or-swex/

Or simply pick up a PSU jump plug since every liquid cooling user should have one, as you will need it for filling, bleeding and leak testing - http://www.amazon.com/XSPC-ATX-Bridge-Tool-Black/dp/B00NKQ4F98/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1456858905&sr=8-1&keywords=psu+jumper
post #18570 of 20809
Quote:
Originally Posted by ronaldoz View Post

Yes, I was thinking about that. So actually the airflow is not great. My current case got the same issue. Most cases I see, got closed front and top, at least the one with big windows in them. Maybe the Corsair Graphite 760T will be fine then..

On the evolvATX, if you prop the bottom of front panel open a little, airflow thru the front is not an issue. Also spacers can be added to the mounting hardware to give the front a little more breathing room. Still, I think the 760t probably has better airflow of the two, but i really like the looks of the evolv.
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