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Swiftech H220/H320/H220X/H240X/H140X and CM Glacer 240L/360L Owners' Club - Page 193

post #1921 of 20732
Cancelled the X60 idea and H220 Pre-ordered
No definate ETA yet, hoping it's soon, early May they say :/

Still need to decide what fans
Noctua's are great but way too costly
The corsair's SP range I'm a little iffy about, especially when they're closely priced to the Noctua's

Am I the only one considering just getting another pair of Swiftech Helix's for push/pull?
Would make replacing the rest of the fans in my case cheaper
Lil D
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Lil D
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post #1922 of 20732
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lil-Diabo View Post

Cancelled the X60 idea and H220 Pre-ordered
No definate ETA yet, hoping it's soon, early May they say :/

Still need to decide what fans
Noctua's are great but way too costly
The corsair's SP range I'm a little iffy about, especially when they're closely priced to the Noctua's

Am I the only one considering just getting another pair of Swiftech Helix's for push/pull?
Would make replacing the rest of the fans in my case cheaper

Dont go with SPs, since they'll increase the noise of the overall unit. I would go with GTs if you can (but they're not PWM controlled).

Helix fans are decent if it doesnt have too much obstruction other than the radiator, but if you can afford to look at something better go with the better fan.
 
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post #1923 of 20732
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lil-Diabo View Post

Cancelled the X60 idea and H220 Pre-ordered
No definate ETA yet, hoping it's soon, early May they say :/

Still need to decide what fans
Noctua's are great but way too costly
The corsair's SP range I'm a little iffy about, especially when they're closely priced to the Noctua's

Am I the only one considering just getting another pair of Swiftech Helix's for push/pull?
Would make replacing the rest of the fans in my case cheaper

I don't have push pull, but I picked up an additional MCR-220-QP and use helix on that radiator as well. The static pressure is slightly lower than some fans with higher fin density at lower RPMs but the performance is pretty good and the fans are fairly quiet.
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Nightrider
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post #1924 of 20732
Quote:
Originally Posted by ez12a View Post

thumb.gif

i've been seeing it come in and out of stock on newegg. I wonder if they're receiving more or selling them in batches.

No, they split them up between their warehouses. They have their main one in California and another in Tennessee.
post #1925 of 20732
Quote:
Originally Posted by WiSH2oo0 View Post

Just received my H220 back from RMA tonight. I just got everything hooked up and it is running great. I had the normal air in the system sound but after tapping the hoses, rotating the unit and letting it run for awhile that all cleared up. I definitely received a refurbished pump. As you can see in the picture that the cover looks like someone either dropped it or tried to epoxy the top back on. No biggie though since it is running smooth as silk thus far.

Thank Bryan. I will try to get my unit sent back to you on Wednesday or Thursday.


No, this isn't a refurbished pump. These had to be taken apart when they came into us so that they could be completely cleaned out. We then had to reattach the top and that's why there's new epoxy on it. We wanted to make sure that there would be no further issue and that's why we took these measures.
post #1926 of 20732
Quote:
Originally Posted by nich666 View Post

Hi, Can I jump in with maybe the same issue? I have a massively high CPU tempreture with an H220 installed. I am wondering if the pump is working but meanwhile am stripping the system to replace the TIM this time using a sensible amount on the chip.

The trials and tribulations are laid out here. >

http://www.overclock.net/t/1384769/im-hot#post_19817422

Regards, Brian.

Send me a PM if you're still having this issue. I can walk you through the steps to take to make sure that either the pump has failed or there's some debris in your loop that's causing it to not function properly.
post #1927 of 20732
Yup, kind of sucks I thought I'd get my H220 shipped out of CA so it'd be here quicker, but it's from TN. It won't get here (Vegas) until next Tuesday. redface.gif

I knew I should have just paid extra for 3-day. lol Everything else I order is usually shipped from their CA location so this is rare for me.
post #1928 of 20732
Quote:
Originally Posted by paleh0rse14 View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by Diablo85 View Post

H220 arrived ~ 9 A.M. this morning at my work! !@#$ why do i have to be stuck at work right now. I wanna go home and install it!
I definitely know that feeling! Just try not to stare at the clock all day... devil.gif

eh. the only way it would get installed tonight anyways is if my 7970 komodo block magically appeared today. its not scheduled to be here until friday so i'm waiting until saturday to install the H220 and video card block. i do, however, get to go home and take out my crossfire 7970's and install a single 7950 and test the crap out of that to make sure its good before putting the water block on it and then posting my 7970's for sale next week if everything turns out well with the 7950 and the water blocks.
post #1929 of 20732
Just trying to help, but please read the entire post before getting out your sharpest pens:rolleyes: (yes, it’s a few paragraphs but the point comes out in the first few sentences):

The following isn't my “idea” it’s just the laws of physics and thermal hydraulics:

It's very simple; your goal should be to cool the liquid that is going through the radiator of whatever system you are using, to a temperature as low as possible. That will in turn get your CPU to a temperature as cool as possible which is an ‘incidental reaction’. If the temperature you’re pushing or pulling through the radiator is 74°F, (about 23°C), you can be sure that the liquid circulating in the radiator will never be lower than that at best, (and can be actually, quite higher depending on how many ounces of water go through the radiator per minute).

So if you're in an air-conditioned room that is about 74°F as mine is you can expect the liquid to get cooled down to about 80° to 85°F, (26 to 29°C). This would translate to your processor getting down to about 90° F at best, (about 32°C). That’s about what my processor temp is when at rest, (I have an O/C'd CPU at 4.2 GHz for everyday use and when not ‘flight simming’ and it never gets higher than 68/69C when running at 5GHz for hours).

So it goes that if you pull the air from an already hot case that may be 39 or 40°C, (104°F), through the radiator, you cannot expect the liquid to be any cooler than that. In fact, if you did that your processor is going to be much warmer than 40°C obviously.

The radiator in the H220, (or any other water cool system of this kind), works just like the radiator in your car. Most new cars these days have a thermostatically controlled engine radiator fan. When the engine starts getting above whatever the engine thermostat is rated at, the engine fan kicks on and “sucks” the cooler air from outside the vehicle through the radiator cooling the liquid inside the radiator. The engine block gets cooler as a result and that’s an ‘incidental reaction’. NO cars ‘push’ the hot air from the engine compartment through the radiator and then out to the outside air, none.

But your engine block will never get down to the same temperature as the liquid, (antifreeze in this case), but will certainly get cooler than your engine compartment temp. That’s why you should always push or pull cool air through the radiator from the outside of the case environment be it car or computer, (assuming the outside temp is cooler than inside the compartment).

If anyone is certain that they are getting cooler temps when they push the air within their case through the radiator then they have another variable that is affecting their temps and are simply misunderstanding/misinterpreting what those variables are.

Maybe their other fans are fighting each other and causing a very disruptive air flow or maybe your computer is near a window in the room, (as mine is), in which case the heat of the day increases the air temps in that area and you're not running cool enough AC or circulation. But even in that scenario, the temp in the case is likely to be warmer than the air outside of it.

There can be many reasons that are causing that effect but it's impossible for me to know without being there with the computer and checking it myself. There are many places for the air to wind up 'circling' in corners where various components get close to each other. Other places of concern are where you wind up with "dead air", or ‘ebbs’, (places where the air is just circling or isn't being a moved at all and the temp just starts to build up in those points).

Move your case fans or flip them around to push instead of pull or pull instead of push. I have nine fans in only one 120 mm fan is set up to pull air from the case. I believe I don’t have a ‘dead air’ problem because I have 1 200mm fan mounted on the side pulling air into the case. There’s plenty of other places that the warm air in the case can seep out of, (the seams and gaps), and the intake of cool air will create enough pressure to push that warm air out.

But I can guarantee that you will never get cooler temps by pulling the hot air in your case through the radiator if the air outside the case is cooler. It’s a physical impossibility, (if the system doesn’t have its own, self-contained refrigeration source), no matter how anyone wants to argue it.


I've seen manufacturers who make these radiators actually instruct the buyer to pull the hot air from the case through the radiator! The Corsair H100 I presently have had instructions that correctly stated the way the airflow should go when assembling their product. But I’ve also seen companies that supposedly “specialize” in hardware cooling state just the opposite, but hey, it’s their company. Honestly, I can't imagine what some of these other manufacturers are thinking and if you have any doubts just look at the radiator system in your automobile.

Do you really think that the automobile industry would choose to pull the cool air from outside the engine compartment and then through the radiator when that wasn't the best way to do it? Of course not, because they're not trying to cool the engine block. They're trying to cool the liquid.

I hope that I got through to somebody out there and helped them understand this. I've gone into this before in other websites, (a year ago), and all it did was to bring out the ‘keyboard boxers’ lol. So I swore I wouldn't post this attempt to help folks realize what they already know but failed to understand. It’s really a very simple and basic concept, law, theory and to some, a solution:thumb:.

This is different than trying to cool your components in the case. The fans for the radiator are not meant to be thought of in the same way you use the fans in your cases. Just focus on the temperature of the liquid and everything else will happen the way you wanted;).
Rich
post #1930 of 20732
Quote:
Originally Posted by wingclip View Post

Just trying to help, but please read the entire post before getting out your sharpest pens:rolleyes: (yes, it’s a few paragraphs but the point comes out in the first few sentences):

The following isn't my “idea” it’s just the laws of physics and thermal hydraulics:

It's very simple; your goal should be to cool the liquid that is going through the radiator of whatever system you are using, to a temperature as low as possible. That will in turn get your CPU to a temperature as cool as possible which is an ‘incidental reaction’. If the temperature you’re pushing or pulling through the radiator is 74°F, (about 23°C), you can be sure that the liquid circulating in the radiator will never be lower than that at best, (and can be actually, quite higher depending on how many ounces of water go through the radiator per minute).

So if you're in an air-conditioned room that is about 74°F as mine is you can expect the liquid to get cooled down to about 80° to 85°F, (26 to 29°C). This would translate to your processor getting down to about 90° F at best, (about 32°C). That’s about what my processor temp is when at rest, (I have an O/C'd CPU at 4.2 GHz for everyday use and when not ‘flight simming’ and it never gets higher than 68/69C when running at 5GHz for hours).

So it goes that if you pull the air from an already hot case that may be 39 or 40°C, (104°F), through the radiator, you cannot expect the liquid to be any cooler than that. In fact, if you did that your processor is going to be much warmer than 40°C obviously.

The radiator in the H220, (or any other water cool system of this kind), works just like the radiator in your car. Most new cars these days have a thermostatically controlled engine radiator fan. When the engine starts getting above whatever the engine thermostat is rated at, the engine fan kicks on and “sucks” the cooler air from outside the vehicle through the radiator cooling the liquid inside the radiator. The engine block gets cooler as a result and that’s an ‘incidental reaction’. NO cars ‘push’ the hot air from the engine compartment through the radiator and then out to the outside air, none.
Rich

I agree with just about everything that you said. I just have one issue though and this is in regards to those, like myself, that have multiple radiators. If I were to set all of my radiators as intakes it would cause the temperature to build up in my case. This has caused me issues with hard drive failures due to overheating. This is why my back and top radiators are set up as exhaust. When I had them as intakes the temperatures were a few degrees cooler on my main components, but my case and hard drive temperatures were terrible. So much so that I experienced hard drive failures. Just my two cents.
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