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post #19761 of 20809
Quote:
Originally Posted by t1337dude View Post

I think my H220 X2 is acting a little funky. Since I got it, it's been relatively silent. But in the last few days, the pump has gotten a bit noisy sounding. I can hear it from across the other side of the living room with the fans turned all the way down. It doesn't have that clicky sound that I've previously experienced with air bubbles. It's sort of just like a loud, dull hum emitting from the pump. When I put my ear next to it, it has a bit of a grinding sound to it. It almost sounds like I have the pump turned up to 100, even though it's only at 0%. But when I turn it from 0% to 100%, the difference isn't as much as I remember it being.

Have you tried topping it off? They start making sounds similar to what you describing when the fluid gets a little low.
post #19762 of 20809
Quote:
Originally Posted by ciarlatano View Post

Have you tried topping it off? They start making sounds similar to what you describing when the fluid gets a little low.

Thank you sir, I will give that a shot. I'm also going to try unplugging the RPM connection to the pump and let it sit on max overnight. If all else fails I'll try to get a decent recording of what I'm experiencing. When I stick my ear right next to it, the grinding noise seems fairly...aggressive sounding? Like perhaps there is an air bubble. I'll try a few things and report back. I wish the problem was perhaps a bit more obvious because while the increase in noise is noticeable, it's not a night and day difference where I'll instantly be able to tell the problem was fixed.

I guess while I'm here - one more question - is it untypical for the LED's to change color on their own after reboot? For example, sometimes when I reboot, the red LED inside of my reservoir changes to green, while the other LED's remain red. I can't help but wonder if my whole LED system is broken because I've never been able to get the LED's on the transparent CPU block to light up.

Edit: Actually, the more I listen, it sounds a bit "grindy" even sitting across the room.
post #19763 of 20809
Quote:
Originally Posted by t1337dude View Post

Thank you sir, I will give that a shot. I'm also going to try unplugging the RPM connection to the pump and let it sit on max overnight. If all else fails I'll try to get a decent recording of what I'm experiencing. When I stick my ear right next to it, the grinding noise seems fairly...aggressive sounding? Like perhaps there is an air bubble. I'll try a few things and report back. I wish the problem was perhaps a bit more obvious because while the increase in noise is noticeable, it's not a night and day difference where I'll instantly be able to tell the problem was fixed.

I guess while I'm here - one more question - is it untypical for the LED's to change color on their own after reboot? For example, sometimes when I reboot, the red LED inside of my reservoir changes to green, while the other LED's remain red. I can't help but wonder if my whole LED system is broken because I've never been able to get the LED's on the transparent CPU block to light up.

Edit: Actually, the more I listen, it sounds a bit "grindy" even sitting across the room.

Break out the distilled water and let us know how you make out.

I have no clue on the LEDs, btw. Really didn't play with them while I had the X2 up and running.
post #19764 of 20809
Welp, the threads on my replacement Apogee XL stripped again (same thing happened to my original). At first I tightened the fittings normally (hand tight but nothing crazy). I immediate saw it was leaking and I could hear the air hissing out. So I re-tightened the fitting and made sure it was screwed in evenly. I did tighten it more this time but, again, by hand (no tools/leverage). Still leaked and the threads are stripped. Now fittings won't set evenly. I am debating getting some Locktitie 425 or just ditching the block and getting something with metal threads... because this is maddening. While I am willing to admit I "did something wrong" I don't believe I was being overly aggressive or doing anything "a reasonable person" wouldn't do.
    
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post #19765 of 20809
Could be soft acetyle or crossthreaded maybe? Did it thread in smoothly?
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post #19766 of 20809
Quote:
Originally Posted by paskowitz View Post

Welp, the threads on my replacement Apogee XL stripped again (same thing happened to my original). At first I tightened the fittings normally (hand tight but nothing crazy). I immediate saw it was leaking and I could hear the air hissing out. So I re-tightened the fitting and made sure it was screwed in evenly. I did tighten it more this time but, again, by hand (no tools/leverage). Still leaked and the threads are stripped. Now fittings won't set evenly. I am debating getting some Locktitie 425 or just ditching the block and getting something with metal threads... because this is maddening. While I am willing to admit I "did something wrong" I don't believe I was being overly aggressive or doing anything "a reasonable person" wouldn't do.

I had issues with one of my XL not being threaded deeply enough for some fittings. This caused the fitting to sit too high to properly compress the o-ring. Could this be what you are experiencing?
post #19767 of 20809
Quote:
Originally Posted by ciarlatano View Post

I had issues with one of my XL not being threaded deeply enough for some fittings. This caused the fitting to sit too high to properly compress the o-ring. Could this be what you are experiencing?

This is exactly what I am experiencing. I read that Elmer's glue works as a thread sealer so I'm trying that on my current leak test.
    
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post #19768 of 20809
Quote:
Originally Posted by paskowitz View Post

This is exactly what I am experiencing. I read that Elmer's glue works as a thread sealer so I'm trying that on my current leak test.

Ok, so the threads aren't stripped, it is simply that you can not screw the fitting in tight enough. Is that correct?

There are three schools of thought on this. The first one recommended by Bryan (after he saw what I did and had a heart attack) escapes me....... The second one is to use a thicker o-ring with the same inner diameter. What I did was use a fitting no o-ring to deepen the thread - tighten the fitting, back it out, tighten, back out and repeat. Since the top is acetal it will go a little deeper each time, it takes some time and patience.
post #19769 of 20809
Quote:
Originally Posted by ciarlatano View Post

Ok, so the threads aren't stripped, it is simply that you can not screw the fitting in tight enough. Is that correct?

There are three schools of thought on this. The first one recommended by Bryan (after he saw what I did and had a heart attack) escapes me....... The second one is to use a thicker o-ring with the same inner diameter. What I did was use a fitting no o-ring to deepen the thread - tighten the fitting, back it out, tighten, back out and repeat. Since the top is acetal it will go a little deeper each time, it takes some time and patience.

My threads are stripping, but I managed to get the fitting in. The leak was likely due to the o ring not sealing like you said. I ended up apllying some Elmer's glue and resetting the fitting. This combo passed my leak test. With that said I will be keeping an eye on it.
    
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post #19770 of 20809
I
Quote:
Originally Posted by paskowitz View Post

My threads are stripping, but I managed to get the fitting in. The leak was likely due to the o ring not sealing like you said. I ended up apllying some Elmer's glue and resetting the fitting. This combo passed my leak test. With that said I will be keeping an eye on it.
i would double the o ring before i used glue...but if you're threads are stripped double o ring might not have helped
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