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Swiftech H220/H320/H220X/H240X/H140X and CM Glacer 240L/360L Owners' Club - Page 263

post #2621 of 20767

Yeah, a few places have them, just nowhere I already have an account. I think I'd need longer screws as well, I only get one turn out of the included screws if I use one of the silicon gaskets I have.

Edit: It would also create an air gap, as I want to use it for the fans. Tried to find some 1/32 thick adhesive foam, but it's all double sided.
Edited by Skullwipe - 5/12/13 at 9:36pm
post #2622 of 20767
XSPC
http://www.frozencpu.com/search.html?mv_profile=keyword_search&mv_session_id=RJVsfwZg&searchspec=XSPC+120+gasket&go.x=0&go.y=0

Phobya
http://www.frozencpu.com/search.html?mv_profile=keyword_search&mv_session_id=RJVsfwZg&searchspec=Phobya+120mm+Gasket&go.x=0&go.y=0

I have the 120mm Phobya gasket 5mm thick. I got 4 of them waiting to be used on the H220.
Here is a list of screws selection.
http://www.frozencpu.com/cat/l1/g55/Screws.html
    
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Intel 3770k @ 4.2Ghz Asus Z77 Sabertooth EVGA GTX1060 3GB Crucial Ballistix Tactical 16GB BLT2K8G3D1608ET... 
Hard DriveHard DriveHard DriveHard Drive
Crucial MX100 512GB Corsair Force 115GB WD Green 1TB WD Green 2TB 
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Cryorig C1 + XT140 Win7 64 Home SP1 ASUS VE278Q CM Storm Trigger Brown Switch 
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Corsair AX650 NZXT S340 Logitech G500 Razer Goliathus Extended Mouse Pad - Speed 
AudioAudioAudioAudio
Audiotrak Prodigy Cube DAC Edifier S330D 2.1 Speaker Bose AE2 Headphone Superlux 668B Headphone 
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Logitech UE 4000 Headphone Sennheiser PC320 Headset MX-4 Thermal Paste (CPU/GPU) 3x 140mm Noctua NF-P14s Redux 1200rpm PWM 
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1x 120mm Noctua NF-S12B Redux 1200rpm PWM NZXT 2m Sleeved White LED 
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post #2623 of 20767
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sp33d Junki3 View Post

I have the 120mm Phobya gasket 5mm thick. I got 4 of them waiting to be used on the H220.
Here is a list of screws selection.
http://www.frozencpu.com/cat/l1/g55/Screws.html

What thread pitch should I be looking for?

I got a pair of these cheap Coolerguys gaskets, not sure if I can cut this lip off without ruining them, but worth a shot.
post #2624 of 20767
Are you running the yates/helix fans in push pull together or separate? I was running som cheap CM fans and Helix's and they actually made the temp worse. I switched to all Helix fans and dropped 10C.
post #2625 of 20767
Quote:
Originally Posted by dsmwookie View Post

Are you running the yates/helix fans in push pull together or separate? I was running som cheap CM fans and Helix's and they actually made the temp worse. I switched to all Helix fans and dropped 10C.

Miss matched fans can do weird things to your air flow.


Edit: Silicon gasket cutting has failed. lol
Edited by Skullwipe - 5/12/13 at 10:09pm
post #2626 of 20767
I have 2 scenarios I can use to mount my H220 into an Azza Genesis 9000W Full Tower Case (White) and was wondering which would be the best route to take!

Scenario 1: The board (ASRock Z77 OC Formula) can be mounted “upside down” or rather facing the right side of the case w/ the CPU at the bottom and the GPU toward the top. The H220 would get mounted at the bottom replacing the 2ea 140mm bottom intake fans that came with the case, and would draw cooler outside air into the case from the bottom through the rad. It will be cooling only the CPU for now and the board’s integrated water coolable power rail later on. I have 4 ea. Helix -or- 4 ea. Gentle Typhoons to use in a push/pull on the rad. This would also place the GPU (a single MSI R7850 Twin Frozr OC AMD Radeon HD 7850 2GB GDDR5) up top next to the twin 230mm top exhaust fans that also comes with the case. I can then mount the twin 140s on the side panel to add a little more positive pressure intake.

Scenario 2: I can rotate the MB tray to the conventional position (facing the left side) w/ the CPU toward the top of the case and mount the H220 up top, replacing the twin 230mm fans, and use one of the 230s on the side panel as an intake with the case air getting exhausted through the rad on top of the case and leaving the twin bottom 140s as intakes on the bottom.

I’m leaning toward the bottom mount as it would bring cooler air in through the rad as opposed to exhausting hotter case air though the top mounted rad.
Was wondering if there’s any preference between the top and bottom mount placement as far as the rad/pump performance goes.

Decisions, decisions! Would greatly appreciate every ones thoughts! thumb.gif
post #2627 of 20767
I got an extra set of Corsair SP120's to do a push/pull setup but none of the screws work with these fans because of the rubber material on the corners.

So my question is what are the specifications of the screws used to mount the fans and is it something that I can find at a local hardware store? Or will I have to order it online? Also how specific of a length can I get?
post #2628 of 20767
Hi guys, I am new to this thread but I would love to know what's going on with stock around the world as places like the UK still after two months don't have them in stock and Its making me so twitchy I have been waiting for it so long now some info on this would be nice thanks smile.gif
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post #2629 of 20767
I bought mine from Microcenter on Friday. The pump was very loud because of trapped air bubbles.
After flushing and bleeding the system, the pump started making a clicking sound. I just got disgusted and returned the thing to Microcenter the next day.
post #2630 of 20767
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mattb2e View Post

I wound up mounting 2 Yate loons in pull, in conjunction with the 2 stock fans. My reasoning is because I was not keen on bringing hot air into the case, as I prefer to exhaust it. Unfortunately, the H220 does not come with screws that will allow you to mount the radiator in an exhaust position, and I did not have a screw driver with a shaft thin enough to remove the stock fans to switch them. So with this discovery, I decided to just use the Yate loons for now, even if its just temporary.

The sad part is that the H220 is performing almost identically to the Antec Kuhler 620 I had installed prior. I am only noticing a 2c drop at load, stock clocks on the CPU. I fear that the TIM installed on the CPU die is to blame for this. The XSPC kit I was originally running (before the pump failed prematurely) performed slightly better, but not by much.

Unfortunately you are trying to fight physics on this one.

You want to pull cool air through the radiator and push the hot air out of it, the best way to do this is to have your radiator as an intake. As long as you have a decent exhaust in the case you will see far better temps as an intake.
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