Overclock.net › Forums › Cooling › Water Cooling › Swiftech H220/H320/H220X/H240X/H140X and CM Glacer 240L/360L Owners' Club
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:

Swiftech H220/H320/H220X/H240X/H140X and CM Glacer 240L/360L Owners' Club - Page 264

post #2631 of 20728
Quote:
Originally Posted by Avonosac View Post

Unfortunately you are trying to fight physics on this one.

You want to pull cool air through the radiator and push the hot air out of it, the best way to do this is to have your radiator as an intake. As long as you have a decent exhaust in the case you will see far better temps as an intake.

I'm not sure what you mean by fighting physics, but I can understand where you are going with your statement. the major issue is that if I run the radiator in the opposite direction it will allow a great deal of dust to accumulate in the radiator relatively quickly. this is why I would prefer to exhaust the hot air from the top of the case rather than into the case. being that there seems to be no difference between having the two yate loons on or off, I will just keep them off for the time being and use them as placeholders until I can either get another set of fans, or switch the direction of the existing ones and eliminating the yates.
post #2632 of 20728
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mattb2e View Post

I'm not sure what you mean by fighting physics, but I can understand where you are going with your statement. the major issue is that if I run the radiator in the opposite direction it will allow a great deal of dust to accumulate in the radiator relatively quickly. this is why I would prefer to exhaust the hot air from the top of the case rather than into the case. being that there seems to be no difference between having the two yate loons on or off, I will just keep them off for the time being and use them as placeholders until I can either get another set of fans, or switch the direction of the existing ones and eliminating the yates.

Thermodynamics, to be more specific.

The cooling capacity of a heat transfer system is not a linear equation. You are able to transfer more heat out of the water of the loop when there is a larger difference between the temperature of your water and the temperature of the air you pass through the radiator. Your case will have warmer air in it, and therefor the H220, and your Khuler, or any other radiator based system will cool less efficiently, than if you had used it as an intake.

If dust is your issue, I would advise getting a dust filter, and using fans in push / pull to increase the airflow to cover the filter. Always match the fans you use in push pull to avoid bad airflow situations, or damage to the fans.

Your case temperatures will be higher, but that doesn't matter you aren't air cooling, you're water cooling. Your primary goal is to cool the water in the loop, after that just exhaust the warmer air with 1 fan somewhere, and you will have great results.
Nightrider
(17 items)
 
Commodore 64
(10 items)
 
 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
3930k x79 gd45 PLUS GTX Titan Crucial Ballistix Sport VLP  
Hard DriveHard DriveHard DriveCooling
HyperX 3k Intel 320 Seagate Barracuda Swifttech H220 
CoolingCoolingOSOS
Swifttech 220QP Corsair SP120 Windows 8.1 Pro Windows 10 Pro 
OSOSMonitorMonitor
Windows 7 Home Ubuntu 15.4 QNIX 2710 Catleap 2B 
Keyboard
Ducky - Cherry MX Red 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
3570k DZ77GA - 70K GTX670-DC2-4GD5  MV-3V4G3D/US 
Hard DriveCoolingOSOS
HyperX 3k CM 212 + Win 7 64 ubuntu 
PowerCase
Seventeam 850w modular CS-NT-ZERO-2  
  hide details  
Reply
Nightrider
(17 items)
 
Commodore 64
(10 items)
 
 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
3930k x79 gd45 PLUS GTX Titan Crucial Ballistix Sport VLP  
Hard DriveHard DriveHard DriveCooling
HyperX 3k Intel 320 Seagate Barracuda Swifttech H220 
CoolingCoolingOSOS
Swifttech 220QP Corsair SP120 Windows 8.1 Pro Windows 10 Pro 
OSOSMonitorMonitor
Windows 7 Home Ubuntu 15.4 QNIX 2710 Catleap 2B 
Keyboard
Ducky - Cherry MX Red 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
3570k DZ77GA - 70K GTX670-DC2-4GD5  MV-3V4G3D/US 
Hard DriveCoolingOSOS
HyperX 3k CM 212 + Win 7 64 ubuntu 
PowerCase
Seventeam 850w modular CS-NT-ZERO-2  
  hide details  
Reply
post #2633 of 20728
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ardi View Post

I bought mine from Microcenter on Friday. The pump was very loud because of trapped air bubbles.
After flushing and bleeding the system, the pump started making a clicking sound. I just got disgusted and returned the thing to Microcenter the next day.
The trapped air goes away after a day.
The clicking noise is different? How and what did you do to flush the system out with?
    
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
Intel 3770k @ 4.2Ghz Asus Z77 Sabertooth EVGA GTX1060 3GB Crucial Ballistix Tactical 16GB BLT2K8G3D1608ET... 
Hard DriveHard DriveHard DriveHard Drive
Crucial MX100 512GB Corsair Force 115GB WD Green 1TB WD Green 2TB 
CoolingOSMonitorKeyboard
Cryorig C1 + XT140 Win7 64 Home SP1 ASUS VE278Q CM Storm Trigger Brown Switch 
PowerCaseMouseMouse Pad
Corsair AX650 NZXT S340 Logitech G500 Razer Goliathus Extended Mouse Pad - Speed 
AudioAudioAudioAudio
Audiotrak Prodigy Cube DAC Edifier S330D 2.1 Speaker Bose AE2 Headphone Superlux 668B Headphone 
AudioAudioOtherOther
Logitech UE 4000 Headphone Sennheiser PC320 Headset MX-4 Thermal Paste (CPU/GPU) 3x 140mm Noctua NF-P14s Redux 1200rpm PWM 
OtherOther
1x 120mm Noctua NF-S12B Redux 1200rpm PWM NZXT 2m Sleeved White LED 
  hide details  
Reply
    
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
Intel 3770k @ 4.2Ghz Asus Z77 Sabertooth EVGA GTX1060 3GB Crucial Ballistix Tactical 16GB BLT2K8G3D1608ET... 
Hard DriveHard DriveHard DriveHard Drive
Crucial MX100 512GB Corsair Force 115GB WD Green 1TB WD Green 2TB 
CoolingOSMonitorKeyboard
Cryorig C1 + XT140 Win7 64 Home SP1 ASUS VE278Q CM Storm Trigger Brown Switch 
PowerCaseMouseMouse Pad
Corsair AX650 NZXT S340 Logitech G500 Razer Goliathus Extended Mouse Pad - Speed 
AudioAudioAudioAudio
Audiotrak Prodigy Cube DAC Edifier S330D 2.1 Speaker Bose AE2 Headphone Superlux 668B Headphone 
AudioAudioOtherOther
Logitech UE 4000 Headphone Sennheiser PC320 Headset MX-4 Thermal Paste (CPU/GPU) 3x 140mm Noctua NF-P14s Redux 1200rpm PWM 
OtherOther
1x 120mm Noctua NF-S12B Redux 1200rpm PWM NZXT 2m Sleeved White LED 
  hide details  
Reply
post #2634 of 20728
Quote:
Originally Posted by Avonosac View Post

Thermodynamics, to be more specific.

The cooling capacity of a heat transfer system is not a linear equation. You are able to transfer more heat out of the water of the loop when there is a larger difference between the temperature of your water and the temperature of the air you pass through the radiator. Your case will have warmer air in it, and therefor the H220, and your Khuler, or any other radiator based system will cool less efficiently, than if you had used it as an intake.

If dust is your issue, I would advise getting a dust filter, and using fans in push / pull to increase the airflow to cover the filter. Always match the fans you use in push pull to avoid bad airflow situations, or damage to the fans.

Your case temperatures will be higher, but that doesn't matter you aren't air cooling, you're water cooling. Your primary goal is to cool the water in the loop, after that just exhaust the warmer air with 1 fan somewhere, and you will have great results.

How would having the third fan position in the ceiling of my case effect this principle? right now there is a vacant hole where a third 120mm fan would go, and the spaces between the fan mounts and the 200m fan opening (2 200mm fans that have fan mounts that make 3 120mm fan mounting possible).

Filtration, while it will definitely help with the dust, it will also be very cumbersome to maintain. I believe there may be a clearance issue with the top grill and the fan mounts that would require me to install filters between the fans and the mount, which would require dis-assembly of the radiator and fans every couple of weeks in order to keep the filters clean, and prevent dust buildup and restriction as a result of the dust.

The only way around this would be to find a very low profile fan filter that can be installed in-between the top of the fan mount and the grille assembly.

I would think that the rear 120mm fan should take care of the hot air from the radiator, however there may be dead spots in my case due to its size, would this affect my GPU temps as well? My GPU tends to run a little on the hot side generally, even with the addition of an Antec spot cool to direct the intake airflow to the GPU intake.

Sorry for the amount of questions I am asking haha.
post #2635 of 20728
I highly recommend this fan filter: http://www.frozencpu.com/products/11723/ffi-51/DEMCiflex_Dual_120mm_Magnetic_Dust_Fan_Filter_-_Dual_Radiator_or_Fans_-_Steel_Aluminum_Plastic_Chassis.html?tl=g47c223s548

It's extremely easy to deal with since it just sticks to the top of the case via flexible magnetic frame. Temperatures are about 3-4 warmer with it in place (stock fans), but I just pull it off if I'm going to be running at 100%. In my case that's probably less than 10% of the time, so I'm not too worried about dust.
post #2636 of 20728
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mattb2e View Post

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
How would having the third fan position in the ceiling of my case effect this principle? right now there is a vacant hole where a third 120mm fan would go, and the spaces between the fan mounts and the 200m fan opening (2 200mm fans that have fan mounts that make 3 120mm fan mounting possible).

Filtration, while it will definitely help with the dust, it will also be very cumbersome to maintain. I believe there may be a clearance issue with the top grill and the fan mounts that would require me to install filters between the fans and the mount, which would require dis-assembly of the radiator and fans every couple of weeks in order to keep the filters clean, and prevent dust buildup and restriction as a result of the dust.

The only way around this would be to find a very low profile fan filter that can be installed in-between the top of the fan mount and the grille assembly.

I would think that the rear 120mm fan should take care of the hot air from the radiator, however there may be dead spots in my case due to its size, would this affect my GPU temps as well? My GPU tends to run a little on the hot side generally, even with the addition of an Antec spot cool to direct the intake airflow to the GPU intake.

Sorry for the amount of questions I am asking haha.

The idea is to add all fans as intake, and then a single exhaust to vent the heat. You want to create good airflow and positive pressure. If you have pockets of dead air, it wouldn't hurt to add a fan to move the air, the best would be to add intakes.

As for the top fan, you would probably be best to use that as an intake as well, and use the rear for the exhaust because you don't want to create a cross stream just sitting above your CPU. I take it your GPU is not in a WC loop, you are just using the H220 as an AIO. If so, you need to worry a little about the case temps, and a little about the water temps. I would advise making sure you clear the air towards the back of the case from any dead spots, while still maintaining intake on the radiator. Cleaning a filter off should be nothing more than removing it and blowing the dust off with a can of air or air compressor. If you need to do much more, I would advise placing the filter somewhere it would be easily accessible to prevent the cleaning from being much of a chore.
Nightrider
(17 items)
 
Commodore 64
(10 items)
 
 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
3930k x79 gd45 PLUS GTX Titan Crucial Ballistix Sport VLP  
Hard DriveHard DriveHard DriveCooling
HyperX 3k Intel 320 Seagate Barracuda Swifttech H220 
CoolingCoolingOSOS
Swifttech 220QP Corsair SP120 Windows 8.1 Pro Windows 10 Pro 
OSOSMonitorMonitor
Windows 7 Home Ubuntu 15.4 QNIX 2710 Catleap 2B 
Keyboard
Ducky - Cherry MX Red 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
3570k DZ77GA - 70K GTX670-DC2-4GD5  MV-3V4G3D/US 
Hard DriveCoolingOSOS
HyperX 3k CM 212 + Win 7 64 ubuntu 
PowerCase
Seventeam 850w modular CS-NT-ZERO-2  
  hide details  
Reply
Nightrider
(17 items)
 
Commodore 64
(10 items)
 
 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
3930k x79 gd45 PLUS GTX Titan Crucial Ballistix Sport VLP  
Hard DriveHard DriveHard DriveCooling
HyperX 3k Intel 320 Seagate Barracuda Swifttech H220 
CoolingCoolingOSOS
Swifttech 220QP Corsair SP120 Windows 8.1 Pro Windows 10 Pro 
OSOSMonitorMonitor
Windows 7 Home Ubuntu 15.4 QNIX 2710 Catleap 2B 
Keyboard
Ducky - Cherry MX Red 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
3570k DZ77GA - 70K GTX670-DC2-4GD5  MV-3V4G3D/US 
Hard DriveCoolingOSOS
HyperX 3k CM 212 + Win 7 64 ubuntu 
PowerCase
Seventeam 850w modular CS-NT-ZERO-2  
  hide details  
Reply
post #2637 of 20728
Quote:
Originally Posted by AdamMT View Post

I highly recommend this fan filter: http://www.frozencpu.com/products/11723/ffi-51/DEMCiflex_Dual_120mm_Magnetic_Dust_Fan_Filter_-_Dual_Radiator_or_Fans_-_Steel_Aluminum_Plastic_Chassis.html?tl=g47c223s548

It's extremely easy to deal with since it just sticks to the top of the case via flexible magnetic frame. Temperatures are about 3-4 warmer with it in place (stock fans), but I just pull it off if I'm going to be running at 100%. In my case that's probably less than 10% of the time, so I'm not too worried about dust.

The issue with that is that the fan openings at the top of my case are designed for 2 200mm fans (or 230mm, cant remember). So with this said, I would have a gap between the 120mm fan mounts, as well as the vacant space where a third fan would go if I were to use 120mm fan filters. If I just stuck them on top of the mesh at the top, it would just go around the filter and still bring dust into the case. Additionally im fairly certain that if I installed that between the fans and the mesh grille, I would not be able to install the mesh grille. There is very little space in between the mesh grill and the top of the fan mount.

http://images.bit-tech.net/content_images/2008/10/cooler-master-atcs-840-classic-review/2.jpg
http://images.bit-tech.net/content_images/2008/10/cooler-master-atcs-840-classic-review/8.jpg
post #2638 of 20728
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mattb2e View Post

The issue with that is that the fan openings at the top of my case are designed for 2 200mm fans (or 230mm, cant remember). So with this said, I would have a gap between the 120mm fan mounts, as well as the vacant space where a third fan would go if I were to use 120mm fan filters. If I just stuck them on top of the mesh at the top, it would just go around the filter and still bring dust into the case. Additionally im fairly certain that if I installed that between the fans and the mesh grille, I would not be able to install the mesh grille. There is very little space in between the mesh grill and the top of the fan mount.

http://images.bit-tech.net/content_images/2008/10/cooler-master-atcs-840-classic-review/2.jpg
http://images.bit-tech.net/content_images/2008/10/cooler-master-atcs-840-classic-review/8.jpg

Didnt like the Demiflex, very restrictive and very little difference in dust.
What you can do in your case, is get a bracket that would screw the length of the existing 230mm mounting holes.
Then you would mount the H220 onto the bracket.
Contact Coolermaster and see if they can send you one.
    
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
Intel 3770k @ 4.2Ghz Asus Z77 Sabertooth EVGA GTX1060 3GB Crucial Ballistix Tactical 16GB BLT2K8G3D1608ET... 
Hard DriveHard DriveHard DriveHard Drive
Crucial MX100 512GB Corsair Force 115GB WD Green 1TB WD Green 2TB 
CoolingOSMonitorKeyboard
Cryorig C1 + XT140 Win7 64 Home SP1 ASUS VE278Q CM Storm Trigger Brown Switch 
PowerCaseMouseMouse Pad
Corsair AX650 NZXT S340 Logitech G500 Razer Goliathus Extended Mouse Pad - Speed 
AudioAudioAudioAudio
Audiotrak Prodigy Cube DAC Edifier S330D 2.1 Speaker Bose AE2 Headphone Superlux 668B Headphone 
AudioAudioOtherOther
Logitech UE 4000 Headphone Sennheiser PC320 Headset MX-4 Thermal Paste (CPU/GPU) 3x 140mm Noctua NF-P14s Redux 1200rpm PWM 
OtherOther
1x 120mm Noctua NF-S12B Redux 1200rpm PWM NZXT 2m Sleeved White LED 
  hide details  
Reply
    
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
Intel 3770k @ 4.2Ghz Asus Z77 Sabertooth EVGA GTX1060 3GB Crucial Ballistix Tactical 16GB BLT2K8G3D1608ET... 
Hard DriveHard DriveHard DriveHard Drive
Crucial MX100 512GB Corsair Force 115GB WD Green 1TB WD Green 2TB 
CoolingOSMonitorKeyboard
Cryorig C1 + XT140 Win7 64 Home SP1 ASUS VE278Q CM Storm Trigger Brown Switch 
PowerCaseMouseMouse Pad
Corsair AX650 NZXT S340 Logitech G500 Razer Goliathus Extended Mouse Pad - Speed 
AudioAudioAudioAudio
Audiotrak Prodigy Cube DAC Edifier S330D 2.1 Speaker Bose AE2 Headphone Superlux 668B Headphone 
AudioAudioOtherOther
Logitech UE 4000 Headphone Sennheiser PC320 Headset MX-4 Thermal Paste (CPU/GPU) 3x 140mm Noctua NF-P14s Redux 1200rpm PWM 
OtherOther
1x 120mm Noctua NF-S12B Redux 1200rpm PWM NZXT 2m Sleeved White LED 
  hide details  
Reply
post #2639 of 20728
Stupid UPS. Checked my tracking number this morning, was excited to find out it suppose to come today. So I waited and waited for the UPS man. So 3 o'clock rolls by and he's still not here. Checked my tracking number again, and they changed it to tomorrow. mad.gif
post #2640 of 20728
I followed the youtube video, posted somewhere here on this thread, on how to flush the system to the tee using HydrX PM 2 Coolant. I think the loud whooshing sound caused by the trapped air was masking out the clicking sound of the pump that was there already.
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:
  Return Home
  Back to Forum: Water Cooling
Overclock.net › Forums › Cooling › Water Cooling › Swiftech H220/H320/H220X/H240X/H140X and CM Glacer 240L/360L Owners' Club