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Swiftech H220/H320/H220X/H240X/H140X and CM Glacer 240L/360L Owners' Club - Page 267

post #2661 of 20731
Quote:
Originally Posted by kingduqc View Post

I have two question, I'm dead on buying this but how long I have to wait for it in Canada? I'm planning to upgrade with haswell and get a h220 so... Also, if it ever leak, will sifteck replace what got fried? Do I need to refill it like a cosum loop? The only reason I don't go full WC is because I don't really want to do maintenance all the time.

Newegg.ca should have some left.
NCIX had stock in last week, but is currently sold out. If you want one, better to order it and wait for the next stock.
If you never open H220, it is sealed. Has always been case by case. There is always a risk to have watercooling in any system. Closed or custom.
    
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post #2662 of 20731
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mattb2e View Post

This is another one of my concerns because my GPU is not under water and runs a bit on the warm side compared to other GPU's of the same type.

All I can say is that I run a GTX 480, which I think still holds the much maligned title of hottest GPU. I have a 200mm front fan, a 200mm side intake and a single 140mm exhaust, it stays within spec if I I have the H220 on intake. BUT, it does run hotter, and the 2c temp difference on my CPU didn't make up for lowering my GPU overclock.
post #2663 of 20731
Quote:
Originally Posted by ez12a View Post

you have a p8z68, chances are your pump barb is resting on the heatsink on the left. Swap it around to what I have (See my sig rig). I found that the VRM sinks interfere with the pump barbs if oriented with the barbs coming out the sides like that.

i was getting the same lack luster results until i remounted it with the inlet at the top. My old h100i was beating the h220 with the way you have it mounted. Expect a 5C decrease remounting it (but you have IB, so i dont know, you might see different results).

it might not look like it touches but it does. Trust. If you wiggle that barb back and forth you'll find that the vrm is digging into the elbow (you can only see the scuffs with the pump removed).

I did notice that the VRM heatsink was very close to the barb when I installed it. I will remount it like you described and post updated temps when done, thanks!
post #2664 of 20731
So can someone help me out with the screw specifications? I don't know anything about screws haha. I hear people referring to M3 and M4 when talking about radiator screws but is that the kind of screws this radiator uses? Also if I go to somewhere like Lowes, Ace, or Home Depot and ask for an "M3" screw will they know what I'm talking about? (that is if I can even buy them there)
post #2665 of 20731
Quote:
Originally Posted by Semper Fidelis View Post

So can someone help me out with the screw specifications? I don't know anything about screws haha. I hear people referring to M3 and M4 when talking about radiator screws but is that the kind of screws this radiator uses? Also if I go to somewhere like Lowes, Ace, or Home Depot and ask for an "M3" screw will they know what I'm talking about? (that is if I can even buy them there)

6-32 is the screw type (SAE) it is not a metric m4.

"Alternate: (8) 6-32 x 1 3/16 (30mm) philips screws"

Just watch the length too. Should be easy to find at most hardware stores.
    
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post #2666 of 20731
Quote:
Originally Posted by Martinm210 View Post

6-32 is the screw type (SAE) it is not a metric m4.

"Alternate: (8) 6-32 x 1 3/16 (30mm) philips screws"

Just watch the length too. Should be easy to find at most hardware stores.
Cool thanks for the info. How specific of a length can I get? I'm guessing I would need to just get whatever is close and cut the excess off.
post #2667 of 20731
Quote:
Originally Posted by TiM3SH1FT View Post

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
Here's mine!







My temps aren't as good as I thought they would be, is that normal?


Quote:
Originally Posted by ez12a View Post

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
you have a p8z68, chances are your pump barb is resting on the heatsink on the left. Swap it around to what I have (See my sig rig). I found that the VRM sinks interfere with the pump barbs if oriented with the barbs coming out the sides like that.

i was getting the same lack luster results until i remounted it with the inlet at the top. My old h100i was beating the h220 with the way you have it mounted. Expect a 5C decrease remounting it (but you have IB, so i dont know, you might see different results).

it might not look like it touches but it does. Trust. If you wiggle that barb back and forth you'll find that the vrm is digging into the elbow (you can only see the scuffs with the pump removed).

He also has a 3570k, Ivy bridge has load temps floors because of the bad glue application leading to more TIM between the IHS and the die. Those temps look pretty ok for that chip with 4.4ghz and that voltage. If you want them to really drop lower you will have to delid the chip, but I don't think yours would benefit all that much from delidding as your voltage for 4.4 is somewhat high.

Quote:
Originally Posted by TechSilver13 View Post

My H220 went out again...sad sad sad

What number is this for you?
Nightrider
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Nightrider
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HyperX 3k Intel 320 Seagate Barracuda Swifttech H220 
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Swifttech 220QP Corsair SP120 Windows 8.1 Pro Windows 10 Pro 
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Windows 7 Home Ubuntu 15.4 QNIX 2710 Catleap 2B 
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Ducky - Cherry MX Red 
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Seventeam 850w modular CS-NT-ZERO-2  
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post #2668 of 20731
Quote:
Originally Posted by Avonosac View Post


What number is this for you?
Most people have no problems, a few people needed one adjustment or replacement, but then there is the small group with multiple failures in a row. Could there be some connection like psu/mobo combination or the power quality in their house?
Ivy 5.0
(14 items)
 
Ivy 4.8
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Ivy 5.0
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Ivy 4.8
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post #2669 of 20731
Quote:
Originally Posted by justanoldman View Post

Most people have no problems, a few people needed one adjustment or replacement, but then there is the small group with multiple failures in a row. Could there be some connection like psu/mobo combination or the power quality in their house?

That is what I'm thinking, the numbers just don't make sense with serial failures of pumps where a vast majority of other users have no issues except line blockage causing the motor in the pump to trip.

There has to be either dirty power from the PSU, or the mobo killing the electronics on his pumps. Maybe bad power from the wall could cause this, but I have a hard time believing it wouldn't kill the power supply first with brown outs or spikes.
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CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
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Windows 7 Home Ubuntu 15.4 QNIX 2710 Catleap 2B 
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Ducky - Cherry MX Red 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
3570k DZ77GA - 70K GTX670-DC2-4GD5  MV-3V4G3D/US 
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Seventeam 850w modular CS-NT-ZERO-2  
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Nightrider
(17 items)
 
Commodore 64
(10 items)
 
 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
3930k x79 gd45 PLUS GTX Titan Crucial Ballistix Sport VLP  
Hard DriveHard DriveHard DriveCooling
HyperX 3k Intel 320 Seagate Barracuda Swifttech H220 
CoolingCoolingOSOS
Swifttech 220QP Corsair SP120 Windows 8.1 Pro Windows 10 Pro 
OSOSMonitorMonitor
Windows 7 Home Ubuntu 15.4 QNIX 2710 Catleap 2B 
Keyboard
Ducky - Cherry MX Red 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
3570k DZ77GA - 70K GTX670-DC2-4GD5  MV-3V4G3D/US 
Hard DriveCoolingOSOS
HyperX 3k CM 212 + Win 7 64 ubuntu 
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Seventeam 850w modular CS-NT-ZERO-2  
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post #2670 of 20731
Quote:
Originally Posted by justanoldman View Post

Most people have no problems, a few people needed one adjustment or replacement, but then there is the small group with multiple failures in a row. Could there be some connection like psu/mobo combination or the power quality in their house?

I'm really starting to wonder what percentage of these people are unknowingly using voltage control. That's the one caveat with the H220, it's designed to be a simple kit, and that may attract those who don't often venture into the BIOS/UEFI.
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