Overclock.net › Forums › Cooling › Water Cooling › Swiftech H220/H320/H220X/H240X/H140X and CM Glacer 240L/360L Owners' Club
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:

Swiftech H220/H320/H220X/H240X/H140X and CM Glacer 240L/360L Owners' Club - Page 282

post #2811 of 20765
Quote:
Originally Posted by ez12a View Post

nice. my friend with a death claw grip on his h50 cooling his 920 would be happy to know this. tongue.gif

What a coincidence, I came from a H50. With my h50 it would get up in the 80's. Very glad I upgraded.
post #2812 of 20765
Quote:
Originally Posted by skywalkr View Post

Is the pump supposed to get progressively louder? Like it's revving up and down on idle and load? It's annoyingly loud on idle... and when loading up a game/putting it under any load it gets considerably louder. It's louder than all the fans in my case put together (7), and I can hear it with my headphones on while gaming... It's simply too distracting and I have a pretty good tolerance when it comes to noise. Sort of have a stale taste in my mouth with my AIO experience lately (the H100i was completely silent, even the pump, but the LED burnt out so I decided to try something "higher" in quality). Spent some time with it yesterday getting the air bubbles out and then after making it completely silent (which wasn't too big of a problem, but was sort of an annoyance after seeing Swiftech parading how this kit is "plug and play", no maintenance required and that they were all tested before leaving, I watched the CEO's video and read here how they were all exclusively tested), and then the pump started to get noisy. It was silent for a good 5-6 hours... Perfect actually. I was really happy and left a nice review on NewEgg for it and maybe should have gave it a day or two first. It also came with paint chipped off on the corners... Again, minor annoyances... Not even going to bother RMAing it because of the hassle. I'll stick my burnt out LED H100i back on... use the H220 pump as a hood ornament, and keep the rest of the pieces until I get proper water cooling gear. I know it's not good to judge a company by one product, but it's hard to trust Swiftech again. I read about how their first batch had fragments/shavings in the loop and that their next batches were supposed to be better. Seems rushed or as if Swiftech wasn't ready to release an AIO product just yet. Anyway, that's my 2 cents. I'm done with AIOs. In my experience, they all suck and you get what you pay for.

Sent you a PM. I'm very sorry to hear about your experience with this kit and I hope you're open to resolving it.
post #2813 of 20765
Quote:
Originally Posted by bond32 View Post

Assuming your h220 is horizontal mounted up top, some say that should always be exhaust due to the added dust problem. If it were intake up top of the case, dust would be accumulating much quicker.


Ehhhh, no not really... That's where the myriad of fan filters available come in. I'm a firm believer in the "All radiators = Intake" philosophy, regardless of direction of flow in comparison to gravity (and it's dusty travelers)!

thumbsupsmiley.png

Thanks - T
post #2814 of 20765
Ok guys just a little update. The green and blue wires on the splitter are in reversed order of the common color scheme with green being the pwm signal. So, another factor ruled out since the green goes in the splitter as the pwm signal and also goes to cpufan header cable as the PWM signal. I don't think this is a problem since is just a matter of which color was used. In fact from a quick search over the web I can tell is very common on the splitter to have the green wire in the position of the blue and vice versa. You guys might check to confirm this. So, right now I am thinking the problem of intermittent zero rpm pump failure (particularly while stressing) might be related to the PSU. I am waiting for another psu from a friend to test this hypothesis.

Anyone else experiencing this same problem? If so are you using a corsair PSU (particularly a ax860i)?

Gabriel
post #2815 of 20765
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gabrielzm View Post

Ok guys just a little update. The green and blue wires on the splitter are in reversed order of the common color scheme with green being the pwm signal. So, another factor ruled out since the green goes in the splitter as the pwm signal and also goes to cpufan header cable as the PWM signal. I don't think this is a problem since is just a matter of which color was used. In fact from a quick search over the web I can tell is very common on the splitter to have the green wire in the position of the blue and vice versa. You guys might check to confirm this. So, right now I am thinking the problem of intermittent zero rpm pump failure (particularly while stressing) might be related to the PSU. I am waiting for another psu from a friend to test this hypothesis.

Anyone else experiencing this same problem? If so are you using a corsair PSU (particularly a ax860i)?

Gabriel

Thanks for the update Gabriel. I'm looking into the wires now to see if this is in fact an issue. Let me know what you find regarding the PSU replacement because as of right now we've been unable to find any issues with the kit that you returned to us. Here is the update: The blue and green wires that connect to the PWM splitter or connect to your motherboard's CPU fan header shouldn't be reversed. The blue wire needs to be on the far right of splitter connector. If it isn't then there are going to be issues with being able to control the speed of this pump. As far as we can tell this won't damage it, but connecting it improperly can damage the circuits. What I mean by this is if you connect the splitter with it being either too far to the left or the right of the connector then this will cause damage to the circuits of this pump. Just make sure when you connect it that all four pins are properly connected to all four slots on the connector.
Edited by BramSLI1 - 5/16/13 at 10:57am
post #2816 of 20765
Just got mine installed. Very pleased! Much better quality over the h100i and kraken x60 I have had before. I have speedfan installed, adjusting the PWM % doesn't seem to change anything. Perhaps I need to play with it some more. Pump is running at full RPM I believe. Still don't hear it.
post #2817 of 20765




Dear Bryan

here is what I meant. The pump wire is ok. The splitter wires are not reversed they are just wired in the wrong common color scheme. Notice that green is on the outside of the splitter out and is also on the out position in the wire that goes to the header. Hope that clarifies the matter. It doesn't look like a problem to me but I would welcome any further insigths.

cheers

Gabriel
post #2818 of 20765
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gabrielzm View Post

Dear Bryan

here is what I meant. The pump wire is ok. The splitter wires are not reversed they are just wired in the wrong common color scheme. Notice that green is on the outside of the splitter out and is also on the out position in the wire that goes to the header. Hope that clarifies the matter. It doesn't look like a problem to me but I would welcome any further insigths.

cheers

Gabriel

The pictures you posted show the splitter wires are in their correct orientation. That isn't going to cause the problem that you're experiencing.
post #2819 of 20765
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gabrielzm View Post





Dear Bryan

here is what I meant. The pump wire is ok. The splitter wires are not reversed they are just wired in the wrong common color scheme. Notice that green is on the outside of the splitter out and is also on the out position in the wire that goes to the header. Hope that clarifies the matter. It doesn't look like a problem to me but I would welcome any further insigths.

cheers

Gabriel
The cable going from the splitter to the CPU header looks fine, but what about between the pump and CH1 on the splitter? Do you have a photo of the pump-end of that cable? THAT is where I suspect it may be twisted...
post #2820 of 20765
Quote:
Originally Posted by paleh0rse14 View Post

The cable going from the splitter to the CPU header looks fine, but what about between the pump and CH1 on the splitter? Do you have a photo of the pump-end of that cable? THAT is where I suspect it may be twisted...

His picture in the middle shows that the pump is plugged in correctly and that the wires are in the correct positions.
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:
  Return Home
  Back to Forum: Water Cooling
Overclock.net › Forums › Cooling › Water Cooling › Swiftech H220/H320/H220X/H240X/H140X and CM Glacer 240L/360L Owners' Club