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Swiftech H220/H320/H220X/H240X/H140X and CM Glacer 240L/360L Owners' Club - Page 293

post #2921 of 20723
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rube View Post

What kind of temps would one expect with H220 cooling an overclocked 3770k with added overclocked 680 to the loop? Only using provided 240mm rad.

Thanks

I ran a setup like this for about a week but decided to just get new rads to help dissipate heat. With an overclocked 3570k and an overclocked 7970 I was getting OK load temps (High 60s). Again, as other people mentioned when it comes to water cooling there are too many factors that varies between people.
post #2922 of 20723
Quote:
Originally Posted by GioV View Post

The edit was my idle temps for an unmodified H220 cooling an i5 3570k with a 4.2ghz overclock. Loads for this was in the mid to high 50s C.

Including the Komodo shouldn't add more than about 5C at iddle.

Double check your CPU block mount.
post #2923 of 20723
Quote:
Originally Posted by mesasone View Post

It depends on your overclocks, but that's probably too much power for the rad to handle on it's own. I have a 3570k and GTX670 w/ heatkiller full cover block in my loop. At stock, the H220 loop can handle these components with out issue. I've been able to run Prime 95 + MSI Kombuster for 30+ minutes and keep temps below 60C on my GPU and cpu cores. However, with a moderate overclock on my 3507k (4.4 GHz on 1.24v) and my GTX 670(121% power target, +122/350 clock/mem), I'm seeing temps over 85C on my hottest core after 15 minutes of that same combo, and that's running the fans at full speed.

EDIT: Ambient temps are probably around 25C currently.

It's just too much power for the rad to handle, I think. CoreTemp puts my cpu power consumption at about 70 watts, and with my with power % usually at about 110% running kombuster, that's nearly 200 watts from the gpu. The GTX 680 starts at 195 watts TDP on a stock reference card, and can go up from there with increased power targets and non-reference pcbs.

So, I think your set up maybe pushing too much power for the H220's radiator to dissipate on it's own. Prime95 or MSI Kombustor are pretty demanding stress test applications, significantly more demanding than most gaming scenarios I'd wager. I'm not sure where to go get a "real world" stress test environment - maybe planetside 2, as that can be taxing on both cpu and gpu. In any case, based on my limited actual hands on testing - I'd recommend an additional radiator to your loop if you can find the space for it. I know the guys at Swiftech are doing some testing in house for GPU expanded loops, so perhaps they can chime in and shed some light on the situation.

I'm going to continue with this set up for a little bit, and continue to gather a bit more data for those who are curious, but I plan on adding another dual 120mm rad + PWM helix fans for push pull on both rads in the near future.

I agree.. There are no standard applications nor games in real life that put the combined CPU load of Prime + GPU load of Kombustor on the loop. So even with a high overclock on a CPU + 1 GPU, running real life apps is just fine. Things start changing when you add chipset and/or a second VGA block. Only then(in our tests) did we have to tune down the CPU overclock a little, say from 4.6 to 4.5 in one of our particular setup. My personal philosophy is this: If it works at the overclock that I want, and at the noise level that I want, then high temps are acceptable as long as they remain on specs (stable system). Now, if you are into absolute max o/c for benchmark purposes (3D Marks scores, etc..), then of course you have to max out the cooling to get these few extra points and make your claim to fame ;-)
post #2924 of 20723
im adding an extra rad when i expand mine just for headroom
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Intel i5 2500k Asrock P67 Extreme4 Evga Geforce GTX 750Ti SC Patriot Viper 3 
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Sandisk Extreme 240 HGST Asus DRW-24B1ST Swiftech H220 
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Storm Trooper Rig
(15 items)
 
  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
Intel i5 2500k Asrock P67 Extreme4 Evga Geforce GTX 750Ti SC Patriot Viper 3 
Hard DriveHard DriveOptical DriveCooling
Sandisk Extreme 240 HGST Asus DRW-24B1ST Swiftech H220 
OSMonitorKeyboardPower
Windows 7 64bit Samsung S24B30BL Tesoro Lobera Supreme Corsair HX650 
CaseMouseMouse Pad
Cooler Master Storm Trooper Tt eSports Level 10 Func XL 
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post #2925 of 20723
Quote:
Originally Posted by GioV View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by Sp33d Junki3 View Post

You need for the koolance is push/pull with high static pressure. Single fan lacks the ability to properly cool. Suggest to remove it from the loop. The fan you have wont do nothing to cool the rad.
The stock fans from Arc R2, is not good for cooling rads. Lacks any airflow to flow through. To use low speeds fans, P/P is better and you have room to do that.

Thanks for the great info, revising my fans now.

In case you missed my reply before -- you never responded -- here it is again:
Quote:
Originally Posted by paleh0rse14 View Post

Setup ALL of your rad fans as intakes -- NOT as exhausts -- and then use the case fan in the upper-rear of your case as the system's only exhaust.

Also, what is the ambient air temperature of the air around the case? (Get yourself a thermometer)
post #2926 of 20723
Quote:
Originally Posted by gabe@swiftech View Post

post 2889 referring to speedfan: you say you set it to manual, good.. but in 2890 you upload a screen shot, and the auto fan control is checked.

I just want to make sure that you have both the bios and speedfan in manual (uncheck the auto fan control in speedfan)

My other concern is that he may not have switched the PWM headers to "Software Controlled" in the Advanced tab in Speefans configuration menu. Since you have the same fan I/O chip as I do, it should look exactly like the screen shot below, be sure you click the "remember it" box in the lower right.



Once this is set restart your machine, then you should be able to adjust the speeds manually in Speedfans main window. Until you can manually control the fans don't bother with Automatic fan speed.
post #2927 of 20723
Quote:
Originally Posted by gabe@swiftech View Post

Been following this exchange between you and skullwipe. Maybe its simple misunderstanding.. let me recap my understanding:

post 2885, referring to the UDH3 bios setting: you say that your cpu_fan header is set to pwm. ok, but that's the operating mode (as opposed to voltage control).
There should also be a setting for allowing manual speed control - do you have it setup to manual mode in the bios ?

post 2889 referring to speedfan: you say you set it to manual, good.. but in 2890 you upload a screen shot, and the auto fan control is checked.

I just want to make sure that you have both the bios and speedfan in manual (uncheck the auto fan control in speedfan)

I would't try any other header than cpu_fan for now. let's first see if that works, then you can experiment with other headers.

The PWM splitter is a mere extension cord so to speak. If you can fully control your pump by pwm when it is connected to cpu_fan, then there is no reason for it not to work with the splitter, unless said splitter is defective. In which case, we just need to give you another one :-)

It is set to manual control in the bios, that checkbox doesn't make a difference
post #2928 of 20723
What is the minimum suggested pump speed for the H220? I have it set to 15% in speedfan which yields about 1300rpm, is that too low?
post #2929 of 20723
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mattb2e View Post

What is the minimum suggested pump speed for the H220? I have it set to 15% in speedfan which yields about 1300rpm, is that too low?

No, the minimum speed that the pump will run at is about 1200rpm. You can play around with the settings to determine what gets you the best performance.
post #2930 of 20723
Quote:
Originally Posted by BramSLI1 View Post

No, the minimum speed that the pump will run at is about 1200rpm. You can play around with the settings to determine what gets you the best performance.
oh ok, so is it safe to assume the minimum is coded into the hardware? thank you for your response
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