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Swiftech H220/H320/H220X/H240X/H140X and CM Glacer 240L/360L Owners' Club - Page 294

post #2931 of 20767
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mattb2e View Post

oh ok, so is it safe to assume the minimum is coded into the hardware? thank you for your response
yes, unless you're me and the minimum is 0 LOL
post #2932 of 20767
Quote:
Originally Posted by dramabeats View Post

yes, unless you're me and the minimum is 0 LOL

Check your PM's.
post #2933 of 20767
Just installed my second H220 into my buddies HAF 932 with a 3770K and 7970 all at stock clocks. She idles really low and while playing Bioshock @ 1440p with max settings she reached 41 on the GPU and I think the CPU somewhat lower. All in all this has worked out to be a great kit. I m sure we can go ahead and do some overclocking, but he is quite happy with how quiet it is and the temperature performance.
post #2934 of 20767
anyone have any advice on how to get air out of the loop?

I expanded my H220 to cool 2 7950's (and its working marvelously, actually) but in the process I somehow got tons of air in the loop, causing the pump to gurgle and the reservoir to make little bubbling sounds.

The reservoir is completely full, and I tried rocking the whole unit back and forth for 10 minutes but it didn't help anything.
post #2935 of 20767
Quote:
Originally Posted by gdubc View Post

I took my kid down to Denver to Elitchs amusement park today and stopped by the microcenter and this is what I saw:

I just want to say that there were 6 prior to me first getting there and 5 when I left... and then I returned and left a week later there were 4. Hmmm... Coincidence or do I have two simultaneous BitFenix Prodigy builds going on... The world can only tell with time.
post #2936 of 20767
Quote:
Originally Posted by remedy View Post

anyone have any advice on how to get air out of the loop?

I expanded my H220 to cool 2 7950's (and its working marvelously, actually) but in the process I somehow got tons of air in the loop, causing the pump to gurgle and the reservoir to make little bubbling sounds.

The reservoir is completely full, and I tried rocking the whole unit back and forth for 10 minutes but it didn't help anything.

Can take time, tapping the hoses, shaking/rocking etc. You could also run it with the fill port cap off.
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post #2937 of 20767
Quote:
Originally Posted by remedy View Post

anyone have any advice on how to get air out of the loop?

I expanded my H220 to cool 2 7950's (and its working marvelously, actually) but in the process I somehow got tons of air in the loop, causing the pump to gurgle and the reservoir to make little bubbling sounds.

The reservoir is completely full, and I tried rocking the whole unit back and forth for 10 minutes but it didn't help anything.
The best/easiest way to do this is with the whole loop outside the case. Then you can raise and lower different components and manipulate the loop to get all the air out.

If it is installed, then tilting the case every which way is pretty much your only choice. I found it much easier to take several inches of tubing and attach it to the fill port of the res with a fitting. Then you can slightly overfill the loop and you can watch as air bubbles come out, which tells you if you are making progress. This has been mentioned by Martin a few times here.

Trying to do it with the fill port closed is hard, and doing it will the fill port open but without any tubing can be tricky. It can take much, much longer than 10 minutes. I think any person who water cools will tell you that bleeding the loop of air takes time. Depending on the loop it can take a few days for all of it to go away.

Turn the pump on, tilt the case, turn the pump off, tilt the case, over and over. Here is a pic of my fill port with extra tubing which made it much easier. I have tried it with and without extra tubing in the fill port and there is no question which is a better way to do it. Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
When you are done you just tape or close off the top of the tubing to create a small vacuum so most of the extra coolant in the tubing doesn’t spill when you unscrew the fitting. Putting paper towels around the base of the fitting and being careful, you can get it off without any spilling anywhere.
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post #2938 of 20767
Quote:
Originally Posted by gabe@swiftech View Post

I agree.. There are no standard applications nor games in real life that put the combined CPU load of Prime + GPU load of Kombustor on the loop. So even with a high overclock on a CPU + 1 GPU, running real life apps is just fine. Things start changing when you add chipset and/or a second VGA block. Only then(in our tests) did we have to tune down the CPU overclock a little, say from 4.6 to 4.5 in one of our particular setup. My personal philosophy is this: If it works at the overclock that I want, and at the noise level that I want, then high temps are acceptable as long as they remain on specs (stable system). Now, if you are into absolute max o/c for benchmark purposes (3D Marks scores, etc..), then of course you have to max out the cooling to get these few extra points and make your claim to fame ;-)

Hi Gabe,

Are you planning any testing to help these guys out with all these expansion questions?

I completely agree with the real life load scenario being different, but their is a huge hole in "expansion guidance" right now. No or very little good data to suggest or support if and when the expanded heat load begins to need expanded radiator capacity or what the temperature benefits would be expanding the radiator with more. Everyone has to guess based on a scramble of uncontrolled user based data scattered throughout which leads to confusion and guesswork.

It would be a huge posotive supporting contribution for the users planning expansion if there was a table of various configurations showing CPU & GPU temps.

As you suggested it would be nice to consider real world heat loads and to help users understand what those are.. Maybe a looping high heat game demo or something proven to be a healthy common real world test could be used to keep heat levels more in line with actual real world heat loads. Perhaps 3-4 load scenarios just to show that, one synthetic CPU stress, one synthetic GPU stress, and one real world gaming benchmark, and one HD video rendering to show the range of real world loads?

Thanks for considering it.

I would have attempted to test this myself, but lack the resources to do this.

If I buy a 680 or 690 or some other high end card, what temperatures can I expect added to my 3930@ 4.5.?

What if i added two 680s in SLI, what temps in real world use would I see? What if i added a single mcr120 to that mix?

Those are the many examples of questions I have myself and unable to answer and many users out there have similar "what if I expand with X or Y or Z or X+Z" type questions.

I'm thinking a simple "expansion configuration" cpu & gpu table would work just fine. Leave the CPU and GPU blocks permanently mounted to eliminate mounting variables and simply run some chosen gaming demo loop (or perhaps more than one load scenario) with a variety of hardware and radiator expansion configurations and log the data corrected to a constant ambient. Should be easy testing really..a day or two of testing maybe. You could even show off how great the new quick disconnects work..smile.gif

Thanks for considering it. I asked Bryan too but haven't heard any further discussion. Wanted to do it myself too but can't.

I just hate seeing everyone stuggle with the expansion planning. They need some sort of table/tool to help them plan their expansion needs a little. Figured you guys might consider it if suggested?

Thanks!
Martin
Edited by Martinm210 - 5/19/13 at 7:29am
    
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post #2939 of 20767
Quote:
Originally Posted by paleh0rse14 View Post

In case you missed my reply before -- you never responded -- here it is again:

Haha I did take it into consideration, I already switched the helix fans around and the bottom rad all for intake. I'm buying new fans, Alasa Viper S flow to pull on the 240mm rad and a crazy finger slicing 4000 rpm for my 30fpi rad. I'm looking for a thermostat at the moment but I will try this setup first.

Thanks for the help!
Edited by GioV - 5/19/13 at 8:23am
post #2940 of 20767
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sp33d Junki3 View Post

Which fans are you getting and for which rad?
Are you keeping the Koolance in loop?
Gelid Silent 12 is PWM and works with the splitter.

Yes, I am keeping all my rad, I can't return it so i'll make the best out of it. For the thick 280mm rad I am getting 2 140mm Akasa S Flow to ass for p/p with the arc midi fans.

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=32169

For the koolance rad I decided to go all out and get a koolance performamce fan to put as an intake, i'm not too concerned about the noise it'll make if the end performance is good.

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=36_1130_403&products_id=30175

Thank you and palehorse for the great advice!
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