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Swiftech H220/H320/H220X/H240X/H140X and CM Glacer 240L/360L Owners' Club - Page 319

post #3181 of 20767
Quote:
Originally Posted by dsmwookie View Post

I've got it out on a table now and hooked up to a spare PSU. The outlet line has pressure, but the rest of the loop seems void of any flow/pressure. Should I be doing anything specific to help bleed off the air from the other parts of the system? I am moving the individual parts around while keeping the reservoir/240 radiator at the highest point. It honestly feels like the inlet line has no fluid in it at all, but the radiator is slap full of coolant.

You might try opening up the little phillips screw bleed screw on the pump to help prime it for a second. Sounds like it's having trouble getting fluid into the pump and that may help air escape and fill the volute. It is right next to the outlet port. When I filled, I just held the block/pump down low and held the radiator reservoir up high and let the air work it's way up to the reservoir, but a more complex loop may be more difficult to do that.
    
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post #3182 of 20767
Annnnnnd my pump failed. Went away for a week for vacation, come back home and cpu fan not detected. I have one of the first batches so it lasted awhile at least. Going to set up an RMA.
post #3183 of 20767
What is the best way to control the pump speed?
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post #3184 of 20767
Quote:
Originally Posted by BradleyW View Post

What is the best way to control the pump speed?

There is one one way you should connect it. Use the PWM splitter which draws 12v from the PSU and plug the splitter into you motherboard PWM capable 4 pin fan header.

As far as PWM control, that varies depending on the motherboard. Asus and some other have pretty good fan control software. Some motherboard bios can do it too. My ASrock MB sucked though so Speedfan was really the only usable option. Takes a little learning and tinkering in speedfan, but it does have some precise control where you can setup PWM vs CPU temp curves to slowly ramp up speeds as heat increases.
    
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post #3185 of 20767
im having some problems with my build, there is no video output and the gpu fans arent spinning up. took it into a hardware place and they told me it is most likely the cpu but they didnt have a spare socket 2011 cpu to test it against and didnt bother trying another cooler. so im wondering could the h220 cause that to happen, if it were faulty?
post #3186 of 20767
Quote:
Originally Posted by mb6079 View Post

im having some problems with my build, there is no video output and the gpu fans arent spinning up. took it into a hardware place and they told me it is most likely the cpu but they didnt have a spare socket 2011 cpu to test it against and didnt bother trying another cooler. so im wondering could the h220 cause that to happen, if it were faulty?

usually no. Unless the backplate was somehow shorting against something on the motherboard. There's nothing other than the mounting mechanism and waterblock that touches the motherboard/cpu.
Quote:
Originally Posted by bond32 View Post

Finally got control of my pump. Appears its either compatibility with my board or I have a defective PWM splitter. Plugged the pump only into the cpu header and disabled bios control, now I am able to control the pump speeds with speedfan. Still can't control the fans, my board has another pwm header for a separate channel. Connecting the two helix fans to the splitter, then the splitter to the other channel still causes the fans to run at full speed. Fans by themselves are able to be controlled without the splitter except both helix fans are pwm and I only have one pwm header free.

This really sounds like it's being voltage controlled, but it seems like you've tried several methods to get PWM/splitter to work. If you plug in a 3 pin fan into the CPU header does it change speed? if so then it's voltage.
Edited by ez12a - 5/24/13 at 8:12am
 
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post #3187 of 20767
I followed the advice on this forum and modified my system to achieve the best temps, I cannot post any updated pictures pictures now since I am at work.


*This picture is prior to my modifications (Changes include- New Akasa fans in P/P, New Tim, REMOVAL of bottom 120mm Koolance 30fpi radiator)

Setup:
i5 3570k
7970 on a Swiftech Komodo Water block
MSI Mpower Mobo
Cooling:
H220 pump
Alpha Cool 280mm UT60 (Updated w/ Akasa Viper S flow Push/Pull in intake)
H220 Radiator with stock helix fans in intake
Thermal Paste:
I ran out of Swiftech Tim that came with the H220. Since I was hoping this would be my last modification of my watercooling set up I went ahead and bought a single use Indigo Xtreme (http://www.indigo-xtreme.com/)

Old temps on Idle for both CPU and GPU
38-41C
on Load
60-63

New temps on idle for CPU and GPU
34-36C
on load
58-61C

Ambient Temps 24C

Do these temps seem right to anyone? I've seen various watercooling setups from firends and online and they all outright destroy the temperatures I am receiving. My XFX 7970 gets about the same temps as the stock fan and my 3570k is on par with my old Hyper 212+. Prior to expanding the loop my stock H220 on idle was getting 24-29C, load has remained the same. I do not know what I'm doing wrong anymore, I've spent a lot of money on my computer and am close to scrapping it.

A few grievances I'd like to share about my experience with Swiftech products
1. Swiftech Komodo waterblock with an XFX 7970 Black Edition (reference model)
When the Komodo waterblock was installed my computer would not boot at all, I thought my 7970 was a dud. To confirm it, I took it to work and tested all the surface mounts, ram, and PCB myself and found nothing wrong with the card. To my surprise, my computer even booted up with no waterblock installed on the 7970. Upon further investigation I found that the top screw on the Komodo waterblock when tightened hard enough would cause a short causing my pc to not boot with the 7970 installed. My card is listed as a compatible card on the Swiftech website.

2. Swiftech H220 Pump
When I first received my H220 I noticed one of the elbows on the pump a little looser than the other one, I ignored it and installed it anyway. Everything worked fine until I decided to expand the loop. After bleeding the loop outside the case I carefully began placing all the components inside the case. I laid the case down on a flat surface and began first putting in the radiator and then the pump, at this point the outlet elbow popped off spilling fluid all over my mobo and running down to the GPU. I drip dried my system and called Swiftech to RMA my pump, Brian did a great job at taking my request and understanding my problem and the RMA process went smoothly. When I received my new pump I began installing the system all over again paying extra attention to never stress the elbows, it turns out the new pump had a very loud motor even after completely removing any air in the system (The noise was the same as a YouTube video displaying an H220 pump that was about to die). Needless to say, the noise was louder than any of my fans and sign of a bad pump, I instead just removed the 2 screws that hold the elbow and installed it on my old pump that was working fine. I sent back the *refurbished* replacement pump back to Swiftech.

Overall,
Although Swiftech's customer service is some of the best I've seen, I cannot say the same about their quality control and engineering design process due to what I have experienced.
post #3188 of 20767
Would the H220 pump handle being hooked up to a Nova 1080 60mm copper Radiator? 9x 120mm fans
    
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post #3189 of 20767
Quote:
Originally Posted by GioV View Post

New temps on idle for CPU and GPU
34-36C
on load
58-61C

Ambient Temps 24C
Those CPU temps are exactly what I'm seeing with the H220. I can't speak to the GPU temps, though, since I chose to install dedicated closed loop coolers (Zalman LQ320's) on each of my GPUs instead of expanding the H220 loop. As a result, my max GPU temps idle at about 28C and max out at about 45C! My solution was also MUCH cheaper than expanding the H220 loop -- it just doesn't look as cool...

Red Mod FTW! biggrin.gif
Edited by paleh0rse14 - 5/24/13 at 8:46am
post #3190 of 20767
Well my pump is dropping to 0rpm during load. Starting to regret buying this thing... considering that my 212+ would do 4.7@63c and my H220 does 4.9@61c. My friend with identical setup running an H80i is getting same temps as well on identical overclock. Am I doing something wrong or is this cooler just overpriced/overhyped?

Fx8350
990fxa-ud3
Corsair 400r

Edit: got it to not drop to 0rpm by changing to voltage in the bios. But now it runs a constant 3k rpm.
Edited by MrStick89 - 5/24/13 at 9:04am
    
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