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Swiftech H220/H320/H220X/H240X/H140X and CM Glacer 240L/360L Owners' Club - Page 323

post #3221 of 20767
Quote:
Originally Posted by GioV View Post

Just ran Uningine Valley Benchmark and VRM temps peaked at 52C and core temps actually went all the way to 65C frown.gif

in terms of fans I have (7). My 280mm radiator has (4) 140mm Akasa S flow and the Swiftech radiator has the 2 Helix fans it came with. All fans are in intake, Swiftech rad fans are in push.

You don't have any exhaust fans?
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post #3222 of 20767
Quote:
Originally Posted by GioV View Post

I followed the advice on this forum and modified my system to achieve the best temps, I cannot post any updated pictures pictures now since I am at work.

*This picture is prior to my modifications (Changes include- New Akasa fans in P/P, New Tim, REMOVAL of bottom 120mm Koolance 30fpi radiator)

Setup:
i5 3570k
7970 on a Swiftech Komodo Water block
MSI Mpower Mobo
Cooling:
H220 pump
Alpha Cool 280mm UT60 (Updated w/ Akasa Viper S flow Push/Pull in intake)
H220 Radiator with stock helix fans in intake
Thermal Paste:
I ran out of Swiftech Tim that came with the H220. Since I was hoping this would be my last modification of my watercooling set up I went ahead and bought a single use Indigo Xtreme (http://www.indigo-xtreme.com/)

Old temps on Idle for both CPU and GPU
38-41C
on Load
60-63

New temps on idle for CPU and GPU
34-36C
on load
58-61C

Ambient Temps 24C

Do these temps seem right to anyone? I've seen various watercooling setups from firends and online and they all outright destroy the temperatures I am receiving. My XFX 7970 gets about the same temps as the stock fan and my 3570k is on par with my old Hyper 212+. Prior to expanding the loop my stock H220 on idle was getting 24-29C, load has remained the same. I do not know what I'm doing wrong anymore, I've spent a lot of money on my computer and am close to scrapping it.

A few grievances I'd like to share about my experience with Swiftech products
1. Swiftech Komodo waterblock with an XFX 7970 Black Edition (reference model)
When the Komodo waterblock was installed my computer would not boot at all, I thought my 7970 was a dud. To confirm it, I took it to work and tested all the surface mounts, ram, and PCB myself and found nothing wrong with the card. To my surprise, my computer even booted up with no waterblock installed on the 7970. Upon further investigation I found that the top screw on the Komodo waterblock when tightened hard enough would cause a short causing my pc to not boot with the 7970 installed. My card is listed as a compatible card on the Swiftech website.

2. Swiftech H220 Pump
When I first received my H220 I noticed one of the elbows on the pump a little looser than the other one, I ignored it and installed it anyway. Everything worked fine until I decided to expand the loop. After bleeding the loop outside the case I carefully began placing all the components inside the case. I laid the case down on a flat surface and began first putting in the radiator and then the pump, at this point the outlet elbow popped off spilling fluid all over my mobo and running down to the GPU. I drip dried my system and called Swiftech to RMA my pump, Brian did a great job at taking my request and understanding my problem and the RMA process went smoothly. When I received my new pump I began installing the system all over again paying extra attention to never stress the elbows, it turns out the new pump had a very loud motor even after completely removing any air in the system (The noise was the same as a YouTube video displaying an H220 pump that was about to die). Needless to say, the noise was louder than any of my fans and sign of a bad pump, I instead just removed the 2 screws that hold the elbow and installed it on my old pump that was working fine. I sent back the *refurbished* replacement pump back to Swiftech.

Overall,
Although Swiftech's customer service is some of the best I've seen, I cannot say the same about their quality control and engineering design process due to what I have experienced.


Here is my updated rig

post #3223 of 20767
Quote:
Originally Posted by justanoldman View Post

It was a simple question. If someone buys the H220 it is usually to expand it or modify it some point. If someone has room for a 320 I figured they might have room for the 220 stock rad as well. You seem to be an angry person, most of your posts seem combative. Life is short, definitely not worth getting mad over anything computer related. Sorry if I upset you.

agreed....this guy should move on.
post #3224 of 20767
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by GioV View Post

Here is my updated rig


Good looking rig. Which part was shorting out and where? If it was along the backplate, keep in mind that the card manufacturer could have accidentally left a longer capacitor lead or other somewhere, which could cause problems with an aluminum backplate. Either way, an over-torqued screw is often a troublemaker with any piece, and has a lot less to do with QC. Sorry to hear about the pump though.

If you're getting bad temps conpared to preciously, amd you know that you know that you know the loop is air-free, I would say there's probably a bad mount on either the cpu gpu or both.
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post #3225 of 20767
hey im running 3570k @4.5GHz with 1.255V and i was wondering if it was worth delidding. im getting 38-40C idle and high 60s to mid 70s IBT or Prime95. this is with the h220 in pull config

Note: im not scared to dilid with vice and hammer just wanted to know if it was worth the trouble. I will be using CLU under the IHS if i go through with this

i put this in this thread because im getting same temps with h220 as i did with my CM hyper 212 evo
post #3226 of 20767
If one were to install the H220 radiator at the top of a case with the reservoir cap facing down, would this create any issues vs. having the reservoir cap facing up? Also, how much pump noise is normal at 100% pump speed?
post #3227 of 20767
Quote:
Originally Posted by BramSLI1 View Post

From my own experience, if you test everything for leaks prior to putting power to everything, there is very little chance that you'll develop a leak after that. I've been water cooling my personal system and have built several water cooled systems for others with only one incident of a leak. It turned to be entirely my fault for not tightening down a fitting properly. I foolishly neglected to leak test everything prior to powering everything on and despite the amount of fluid that ran down my motherboard, video card and into my power supply, nothing was damaged. I eventually had to replace the power supply because I would get random shut downs about once or twice a week. After replacing the power supply everything worked fine. There is very little risks of leaks or the resulting damage from leaks so long as you take the necessary precautions.

Is there leak testing instructions included with the H220? Is that a normal step we should expect? I have one ordered but have not received it yet. Thanks.
post #3228 of 20767
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mattb2e View Post

If one were to install the H220 radiator at the top of a case with the reservoir cap facing down, would this create any issues vs. having the reservoir cap facing up? Also, how much pump noise is normal at 100% pump speed?

Ideally you want the resercoir pointing upward. If it doesn't you will have no reservoir in the loop, and even if it's 100% filled, over time evaporation through the tubes will take place and you'll end up with air bubbles causing excess heat in your loop, and could create a pump failure if the bubble is in the pump long enough.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Brennan Hodges View Post

hey im running 3570k @4.5GHz with 1.255V and i was wondering if it was worth delidding. im getting 38-40C idle and high 60s to mid 70s IBT or Prime95. this is with the h220 in pull config

Note: im not scared to dilid with vice and hammer just wanted to know if it was worth the trouble. I will be using CLU under the IHS if i go through with this

i put this in this thread because im getting same temps with h220 as i did with my CM hyper 212 evo
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post #3229 of 20767
Quote:
Originally Posted by GioV View Post

Here is my updated rig
Looks nice and clean. I see in other post you had, the temps was lower. Which is still better.

What you can try is to have a bit more exhaust. Take the H220 go with exhaust and add a bottom fan for intake.
You can try to do Push/Pull on H220, as you have room to do so.

Experiment is the best way. Constant tinkering is what happens.
    
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post #3230 of 20767
Quote:
Originally Posted by Brennan Hodges View Post

hey im running 3570k @4.5GHz with 1.255V and i was wondering if it was worth delidding. im getting 38-40C idle and high 60s to mid 70s IBT or Prime95. this is with the h220 in pull config

Note: im not scared to dilid with vice and hammer just wanted to know if it was worth the trouble. I will be using CLU under the IHS if i go through with this

i put this in this thread because im getting same temps with h220 as i did with my CM hyper 212 evo
Delidding is the only way to get measurably good temps with Ivy. With using CLU on the die most people get 15 to 20c better. I did both mine and recommend it to anyone who can afford a new chip should an accident happen.

You have a decent, average chip with 4.5 and 1.25v, so I would say it is worth delidding. Those with above average voltage requirements may not want to bother, but I don’t see why you wouldn’t do yours based on those numbers.
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