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Swiftech H220/H320/H220X/H240X/H140X and CM Glacer 240L/360L Owners' Club - Page 324

post #3231 of 20785
Quote:
Originally Posted by IronForge View Post

Is there leak testing instructions included with the H220? Is that a normal step we should expect? I have one ordered but have not received it yet. Thanks.

I was referring to custom water cooling. Sorry for any confusion. No, the H220s are all checked for leaks at the factory prior to being shipped. Trust me, if there were an issue with these kits leaking, this forum would have posts containing such issues.
post #3232 of 20785
Quote:
Originally Posted by Phelan View Post

Ideally you want the reservoir pointing upward. If it doesn't you will have no reservoir in the loop, and even if it's 100% filled, over time evaporation through the tubes will take place and you'll end up with air bubbles causing excess heat in your loop, and could create a pump failure if the bubble is in the pump long enough.

Are you suggesting that running a system with the reservoir cap facing down will eventually lead to imminent pump failure?
post #3233 of 20785
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mattb2e View Post

Are you suggesting that running a system with the reservoir cap facing down will eventually lead to imminent pump failure?

well, if you let it evaporate to a point where there is a good amount of air in the system. That could take months if not years to happen.
 
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post #3234 of 20785
Quote:
Originally Posted by os2wiz View Post

Maybe because I don't want to screw around with coolant and spills. I am interested in cooling only my cpu which is an AMD FX-8350. I plan on overclocking to 5.0 GHZ and a 240mm radiator is NOT going to be good enough to lower my temps enough to get there. I don't have room for both a 240mm radiator and a 360mm (not 320mm as you misstated) in my case it is one or the other. I think I have justified my needs now can you stop running resistance for Swiftech?
I find it rather annoying.

You can hit 5ghz on an H220. My specific chip is nothing special in terms of OC ability and my mobo uses offset voltage so its tough to keep volts low.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mattb2e View Post

Are you suggesting that running a system with the reservoir cap facing down will eventually lead to imminent pump failure?

I tried flipping my radiator so the fill port was facing down and could not get it the air bubbles out. Pump constantly made a wooshing/waterfall sound even after shaking it tilting it etc.
Edited by MrStick89 - 5/24/13 at 7:08pm
    
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post #3235 of 20785
Quote:
Originally Posted by justanoldman View Post

Delidding is the only way to get measurably good temps with Ivy. With using CLU on the die most people get 15 to 20c better. I did both mine and recommend it to anyone who can afford a new chip should an accident happen.

You have a decent, average chip with 4.5 and 1.25v, so I would say it is worth delidding. Those with above average voltage requirements may not want to bother, but I don’t see why you wouldn’t do yours based on those numbers.

This,
I think 90% of people have their chips working with the razor method, that is what I did and I feel that it is a lot safer then the hammer method, it just doesn't look safe. If you take your time and have a stead hand de-lidding is easy, 1.25v is pretty good for 4.5GHz, but at any rate it is worth de-lidding an Ivy Bridge just because it will last longer and clock a lot higher. Well anyone with something like a H200, H100i. etc.

I had the exact same problem going from a Hyper 212+ in P/P, I spent $100 on a ThermalRight SB-E and the temps were like 3c lower at most. I then de-lidded to see an instant 25c drop in temps! I can now run 4.6 @ 1.46v or so (75c tops, 60-65c on water), before I could run 4.4 max at 1.420v and get 90c easily on a cooler day. It is just amazing what de-lidding can do.
 
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post #3236 of 20785
Quote:
Originally Posted by Matt-Matt View Post

I could run 4.4 max at 1.420v and get 90c easily on a cooler day. It is just amazing what de-lidding can do.

What chip is this? Makes me feel better about my 3570k 4.4 at 1.21v...
post #3237 of 20785
Quote:
Originally Posted by Skullwipe View Post

What chip is this? Makes me feel better about my 3570k 4.4 at 1.21v...

3570k, one of the first batches. 1.21v is amazing!
 
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post #3238 of 20785
Martinm210 - I sent an email to Swiftech about the bleed screw that you spoke of & this is what Bryan sent back to me:

"That screw is for factory filling purposes and isn’t supposed to be used by the customer at all. I hope this answers your question and thank you for your interest in our products."

Might want to find out if messing with that screw voids the warranty before telling people to start disassembling the pump. Not trying to be a dick. Just sayin'.
post #3239 of 20785
Quote:
Originally Posted by Matt-Matt View Post

3570k, one of the first batches. 1.21v is amazing!


My 3570K would run 4.4 @ 1.16 volts. To go to 4.5 required a push into the mid 1.2 volt range. I'm at 4.8 with 1.36 volts now.
post #3240 of 20785
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tikiman View Post

My 3570K would run 4.4 @ 1.16 volts. To go to 4.5 required a push into the mid 1.2 volt range. I'm at 4.8 with 1.36 volts now.

Golden 3570k? :/
I spent heaps on my water loop, the orignal idea was to watercool the two 7950's and throw the CPU in there while I was at it.. Next minute the 7950 blocks don't fit properly and I just wasted $400-$500 on watercooling my CPU with a massive amount of RAD space and an insane pump..
 
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