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Swiftech H220/H320/H220X/H240X/H140X and CM Glacer 240L/360L Owners' Club - Page 369

post #3681 of 20817
Quote:
Originally Posted by BramSLI1 View Post

It's normal for the pump to make a little noise after flushing and filling it. This is called the bleeding process and it might take a few hours to a few days before the noise subsides and goes away.

Good lol, I am just nervous I guess. Actually it seems to be getting better. Also I fit this just fine in the asus 990fx formula Z. Ill post some pictures soon. Just need to figure out how to use the fan controller, doesn't seem to change fan speeds when I select a manual profile.
post #3682 of 20817
Received mine yesterday.
Can't wait to install it over the weekend!thumb.gif
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Lil D
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post #3683 of 20817
Quote:
Originally Posted by Phelan View Post

The fact that you live outside the USA has everything to do with it. Bacata handles the European RMAs. Returns for 99% of companies are always handled by the retail outlet an object is bought from. If I want a refund on bad pack of Energizer batteries I bought at Walmart or a broken vacuum cleaner, I'm not gonna ask energizer for a refund. I'm gonna ask WalMart, because that's where I bought it.

I think it's a little different if a product has quality issues and induces damage, like a phone battery suddendly catching fire or blowing up. It's probably the phone manufacturer at least partially responsible (or at least would be willing to compensate and/or investigate the issue).

A similar issue and see how it was handled by the manufacturer.

Where I live it's possible to handle the warranty directly to the company (if possible), or send it to the retailer without any expenses. I have just received an email that the shop I purchased my H220 from will do a refund of the H220 but they will not cover the damaged GTX 680. I will try home insurance now, but they will cover only products that cost 150 € and upwards. So I will lose the 150 € that they will deduct from the street price. The 680 I own still sells for around 450 €.

Sorry and enough off topic, this is probably my last entry in this thread.
post #3684 of 20817
Quote:
Originally Posted by BramSLI1 View Post

It's normal for the pump to make a little noise after flushing and filling it. This is called the bleeding process and it might take a few hours to a few days before the noise subsides and goes away.

yeah, it takes a while to have the bleeding noise go away as the pump slowly extricates more bubbles from the loop. If you the rad/res hanging above the pump, it seems to be better since air floats upwards. Before I redesigned my loop so that I wouldn't entrain any air, occasionally when the pump sped up, I would get a stray bubble or two into the pump and this would cause some pump noise.

Without any bubbles in the loop getting entrained into your pump, the pump should be nearly silent at less than 40% (roughly 1700-1900rpm) by speedfan settings.

Just wanted to give another shout out to Brian and Gabe at Swiftech, great company with great CS. Will definitely do business with again and again as long as they keep delivering with their CS.
post #3685 of 20817
When I used the blue Hydr-x coolant, I did notice a few small fine particles/floaters in the solution and bottle. I just filtered these out... not really sure what they were exactly.

Either way, I didn't purchase enough Hydr-X coolant to fully fill loop so supplemented with RO/DI water from the unit I have for my Reef tank. Dropped a little copper sulfate in the solution and used some dye to add a little blue to the water loop. No real issues, there are a few rare and very small pieces of debris gently resting in my bay res. They do look somewhat like those specs you showed pictured in that towel.

I'm sure that small debris from the manufacturing process of the radiators is what is to blame for these small particles... Honestly, I doubt they truly cause any real issues unless they are huge and actually jam up the impeller of pump.
post #3686 of 20817
Quote:
Originally Posted by gabe@swiftech View Post

Thanks for feed-back. Is your radiator installed with reservoir right side up or upside down ?

rad res is face up...



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post #3687 of 20817
Should edit the OP, the asus 990fx crosshair V formula Z will be ok to use but the bracket does touch the VRM heatsink. Here's a picture:
post #3688 of 20817
I'm having problems with my H220 and Helix fans constantly running at 100%. I have an MSI Z77MA-G45 motherboard, and up until yesterday, everything was working fine. I could change fan speed %'s with SpeedFan no problem. Normally, it sat at around 25%, but I wasn't satisfied with the noise, so I did some fiddling with my rig to see what exactly was making all the noise. It turned out to be the pump, but that's of a separate ordeal.

After putting everything back in, The pump is now sitting at 3000 rpm and the Helix fans are sitting at 1800 rpm. Currently, I am using the included PWM splitter plugged into the CPU fan header with Ch1 as the pump. I've reset my bios, tried a fresh install of Windows, fiddled around with SpeedFan settings, but nothing will get the rpm's down.





I've tried enabling/disabling CPU Smart Fan control in the bios, in the control center, but still nada. I've tried individually plugging in the pump, fan, pwm splitter, even stock Intel fan, but nothing will change. I feel like it isn't a problem with the H220 unit, but rather a problem with the BIOS. I haven't changed the BIOS recently, though. I've tried plugging in the PWM splitter with the H220 unit into a separate motherboard, and it seems to report fine and decrease rpm's just fine.

I'm prepared to call it quits on this motherboard, but I am not in the position to make an upgrade or downgrade to anything, so I was wondering if anyone had an idea of what I could do. Also, if all else fails, I was looking into PWM fan controllers, but I couldn't find any (of a reasonable price) that could actually support the H220's 4-pin PWM design without using voltage regulation. I could always use different fans, but the pump running at 3000 rpm is very loud. (Not sure if that is normal, especially in a noise dampened case like the Antec P280 and sitting on the floor) If I can't fix anything in the BIOS or with SpeedFan, are there any PWM fan controllers that are say sub-$30 USD that are actually capable of bringing the pump back down to a reasonable noise level?

Edit: Ignore the CPU temps in the SpeedFan picture. I just didn't have SpeedFan setup when I took that screenshot. Temps are very well normal, idling low 30's.
Edited by asdfdemi - 6/6/13 at 6:15pm
post #3689 of 20817
Quote:
Originally Posted by asdfdemi View Post

I'm having problems with my H220 and Helix fans constantly running at 100%. I have an MSI Z77MA-G45 motherboard, and up until yesterday, everything was working fine. I could change fan speed %'s with SpeedFan no problem. Normally, it sat at around 25%, but I wasn't satisfied with the noise, so I did some fiddling with my rig to see what exactly was making all the noise. It turned out to be the pump, but that's of a separate ordeal.

After putting everything back in, The pump is now sitting at 3000 rpm and the Helix fans are sitting at 1800 rpm. Currently, I am using the included PWM splitter plugged into the CPU fan header with Ch1 as the pump. I've reset my bios, tried a fresh install of Windows, fiddled around with SpeedFan settings, but nothing will get the rpm's down.





I've tried enabling/disabling CPU Smart Fan control in the bios, in the control center, but still nada. I've tried individually plugging in the pump, fan, pwm splitter, even stock Intel fan, but nothing will change. I feel like it isn't a problem with the H220 unit, but rather a problem with the BIOS. I haven't changed the BIOS recently, though. I've tried plugging in the PWM splitter with the H220 unit into a separate motherboard, and it seems to report fine and decrease rpm's just fine.

I'm prepared to call it quits on this motherboard, but I am not in the position to make an upgrade or downgrade to anything, so I was wondering if anyone had an idea of what I could do. Also, if all else fails, I was looking into PWM fan controllers, but I couldn't find any (of a reasonable price) that could actually support the H220's 4-pin PWM design without using voltage regulation. I could always use different fans, but the pump running at 3000 rpm is very loud. (Not sure if that is normal, especially in a noise dampened case like the Antec P280 and sitting on the floor) If I can't fix anything in the BIOS or with SpeedFan, are there any PWM fan controllers that are say sub-$30 USD that are actually capable of bringing the pump back down to a reasonable noise level?

Edit: Ignore the CPU temps in the SpeedFan picture. I just didn't have SpeedFan setup when I took that screenshot. Temps are very well normal, idling low 30's.

I don't have your exact board, but the MSI Z77A GD65. Using the pump just on the CPU1 header, it runs just under 1200 rpm according to the hardware monitor in the bios. Maybe try that, then worry about the fans. I control my fans off my case controller. I do not have the control center installed.
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post #3690 of 20817
Hey guys, I was looking into either getting an Eisberg 240 or the H220. However I saw this on Xbit:

Is the fan controller and better pump the reason for Swiftech's higher pricing, or is this review bogus and the performance is on H220's side as well. I could not find too many results against 280mm rads.
http://www.xbitlabs.com/articles/coolers/display/nzxt-kraken-x60_4.html#sect1
 
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