Overclock.net › Forums › Cooling › Water Cooling › Swiftech H220/H320/H220X/H240X/H140X and CM Glacer 240L/360L Owners' Club
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:

Swiftech H220/H320/H220X/H240X/H140X and CM Glacer 240L/360L Owners' Club - Page 388

post #3871 of 20721
Quote:
Originally Posted by Face2Face View Post

Watagump - Seeing a big difference going from H110 to the H220? Also how hot does your 4.8Ghz 3570K get with the H220?
I am looking @ the H100i, H220 and CM Eisberg 240L

I saw a temp difference of about 4-5 degrees from the H110 to the H220. I get around the low to mid 70's with Prime. Of course its going to vary with my ambient and whether or not
the AC is going.
Gaming
(17 items)
 
  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsGraphics
Intel 3500k @ 4.6 1.25v Z77A-GD65 (MS-7751) Asus GTX 770 SLI Asus GTX 770 
RAMHard DriveHard DriveOptical Drive
Corsair Vengeance DDR3 1600 Samsung 840 Sandisk Ultra Plus Pioneer DVD 
CoolingOSMonitorPower
Cooler Master 212 EVO Windows Ultimate 64 Qnix QX2710 Cooler Master V700 
CaseMouseMouse PadAudio
NZXT Phantom 630 Razor Deathadder Roccat Taito Asus Xonar DSX 
Other
Logitech Z5300E 
  hide details  
Reply
Gaming
(17 items)
 
  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsGraphics
Intel 3500k @ 4.6 1.25v Z77A-GD65 (MS-7751) Asus GTX 770 SLI Asus GTX 770 
RAMHard DriveHard DriveOptical Drive
Corsair Vengeance DDR3 1600 Samsung 840 Sandisk Ultra Plus Pioneer DVD 
CoolingOSMonitorPower
Cooler Master 212 EVO Windows Ultimate 64 Qnix QX2710 Cooler Master V700 
CaseMouseMouse PadAudio
NZXT Phantom 630 Razor Deathadder Roccat Taito Asus Xonar DSX 
Other
Logitech Z5300E 
  hide details  
Reply
post #3872 of 20721
Quote:
Originally Posted by Watagump View Post

I saw a temp difference of about 4-5 degrees from the H110 to the H220. I get around the low to mid 70's with Prime. Of course its going to vary with my ambient and whether or not
the AC is going.

Sweet, I may be getting one soon. Thanks!
post #3873 of 20721
Leak test it will be thumb.gif
First Build
(12 items)
 
  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
I7 4770k Sabertooth Z87 EVGA GTX 780 ACX Corsair Vengeance Pro 1866 
Hard DriveHard DriveOptical DriveCooling
Samsung 840 Pro 512gb WD 2TB Black LG Blu Ray 16x Burner H220 
OSMonitorPowerCase
Win 7 Ultimate Asus PB278 Corsair AX1200i NZXT 630 
  hide details  
Reply
First Build
(12 items)
 
  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
I7 4770k Sabertooth Z87 EVGA GTX 780 ACX Corsair Vengeance Pro 1866 
Hard DriveHard DriveOptical DriveCooling
Samsung 840 Pro 512gb WD 2TB Black LG Blu Ray 16x Burner H220 
OSMonitorPowerCase
Win 7 Ultimate Asus PB278 Corsair AX1200i NZXT 630 
  hide details  
Reply
post #3874 of 20721
Quote:
Originally Posted by michael-ocn View Post

I wonder, is the paint on the pump blade there to assist in the optical measurement of rpm at some point in the manufacturing process?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Dudewitbow View Post

the tiny white particles are most likely plasticizer, which comes off of tubing. its used to make tubing more bendable.

The paint on the impeller signifies to us that it was balanced before being put into the pump and used in our H220 kit. The tiny white particles are also most likely plasticizer, just like Dudewitbow mentioned. This plasticizer shouldn't pose any harm to the pump or the performance of this kit.
post #3875 of 20721
Quote:
Originally Posted by Martinm210 View Post

I'm with Mega Man in thought. I hate paying extra for insurance/RMA/etc whatever. The main point though I believe was in regard to water cooling risks. Laing DDC pumps are a pretty good example, they are a pump where user error is a real high risk when changing out pump tops. I myself have flooded out a pump at least once by not tightening the top correctly. When that happens water flows down into the PCB and usually shorts out the pump. "Innocent Users" often would assume manufacturing defect and submit for RMA. This was happening so often that the "warranty VoId if removed" stickers were added as a means to help ensure it wasn't user error. I have also had dozens and dozens of little leaks here and there throughout my time in water cooling. I have managed to kill a power supply and a few other bits. We make mistakes, it happens...

The H220 is like any custom water cooling and there are risks involved mostly due to user error. I accept that risk and responsibility if I leak on my hardware and expect everyone else to do the same. I don't agree with having to pay a premium for the next new user that makes the same mistakes I did. In home ownership you have licensed plumbers and building inspectors for a very good reason, not everyone should be DIY plumbing without being qualified or inspected. In DIY water-cooling, you don't have to get a certification (training) nor do you have to pay $100 for a building permit and inspection(QA). That's the sort of costs and processes you would need to make certain it is not user error that caused a leak. I would leave it be.. Air cooling or sealed CLCs are for those that want full coverage.

My 2c

I was never talking about leaks caused by anything but mechanical failure when it came to Swiftech. My own issue with Corsair is just due to a non-chalante attitude regarding the way their fan screws fit into their receptacles. That is an engineering issue that should be addressed by the manufacturer. Screwing in a fan should not pierce a radiator if the screw or the radiator receptacle are designed properly. This is a laissez faire and cavalier attitude by some manufacturers not to minimize the risk of damage. One should not have to have mechanical skills or clairvoyance to install fan screws into the radiator of especially an AIO product. It is incumbent on the manufacturer to minimize risks by good design. WE are not living in the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries when there was no concept of product safety and preventive engineering techniques to reduce risks of damage to products. JUST because you specialize in water cooling and obviously have developed skills to minimize damage from your own experience, does NOT mean EVERY one else should be held to that standard. I am not a custom loop person and I probably will never be. I just expect things to work and install simply and without risk.
post #3876 of 20721
Since no one answered me earlier, does anyone have any idea as to why I can't control my pump speed? I can change the fan speeds, but pump stays at 3200ish rpm. I have them all hooked through the splitter plugged into my cpu fan header.
Motherboard is a MSI-Z77A-G41
post #3877 of 20721
Quote:
Originally Posted by FatBoyTyler View Post

Since no one answered me earlier, does anyone have any idea as to why I can't control my pump speed? I can change the fan speeds, but pump stays at 3200ish rpm. I have them all hooked through the splitter plugged into my cpu fan header.
Motherboard is a MSI-Z77A-G41

Can you try running the pump directly off of your CPU fan header? This will help me to know if it's an issue with our splitter or a problem with the pump.
post #3878 of 20721
Quote:
Originally Posted by BramSLI1 View Post

Can you try running the pump directly off of your CPU fan header? This will help me to know if it's an issue with our splitter or a problem with the pump.

I have done this and it was still the same issue. No matter what I changed in my bios or how hot/cool the cpu was the pump speed stayed the same.
post #3879 of 20721
Quote:
Originally Posted by FatBoyTyler View Post

I have done this and it was still the same issue. No matter what I changed in my bios or how hot/cool the cpu was the pump speed stayed the same.

Has it always been this way, or is this something that has started to occur recently?
post #3880 of 20721
Quote:
Originally Posted by BramSLI1 View Post

Has it always been this way, or is this something that has started to occur recently?

Yes, since the first day I plugged it in its been this way (About a week ago). I have tried different tihngs myself, but now I am at a loss.
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:
  Return Home
  Back to Forum: Water Cooling
Overclock.net › Forums › Cooling › Water Cooling › Swiftech H220/H320/H220X/H240X/H140X and CM Glacer 240L/360L Owners' Club