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Swiftech H220/H320/H220X/H240X/H140X and CM Glacer 240L/360L Owners' Club - Page 391

post #3901 of 20719
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mega Man View Post

congrats to everyone who is getting one. you will never go back to air !~~~
yes. yes yes yes yes yes yes yes
should i say more?

at least24 hours. although some like it much longer; it is all personal preference. put 1 fan on the rad to help keep heat down.
also to Os and you
the H220 CAN BE PUNCTURED if you dont pay attention when you are screwing in your screws !~~~~~~~~
are you sure your mobo works ok? not the first time i have seen a fan controller go bad

+1
Thanks for the heads up on the screws. I presume you are only referring to a change in the fans , not in the mounting screws to the case.
post #3902 of 20719
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by os2wiz View Post

Thanks for the heads up on the screws. I presume you are only referring to a change in the fans , not in the mounting screws to the case.

I don't know if it 's in the included literature or not (I presume it is though), but you have to use shorter screws on the backside of the rad if you add extra fans for p/porswitch to mount the fans on the back. The shroud is shorter, to fit in more cases,and the standard screws will not fit. I believe they are included but I could be wrong. Swiftech has well documented this on their website and they have very detailed and informative instructions in general included with their parts, I would bet that it's in there as well.

THAT BEING SAID, Swiftech DID tweak the design on the rad so that even if a screw in the screw holes punctures the rad, it won't leak and will function normally thumb.gif .
Edited by Phelan - 6/13/13 at 4:29am
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post #3903 of 20719
Quote:
Originally Posted by Phelan View Post

I don't know if it 's in the included literature or not (I presume it is though), but you have to use shorter screws on the backside of the rad if you add extra fans for p/porswitch to mount the fans on the back. The shroud is shorter, to fit in more cases,and the standard screws will not fit. I believe they are included but I could be wrong. Swiftech has well documented this on their website and they have very detailed and informative instructions in general included with their parts, I would bet that it's in there as well.

THAT BEING SAID, Swiftech DID tweak the design on the rad so that even if a screw in the screw holes punctures the rad, it won't leak and will function normally thumb.gif .
That is great information. You are most helpful. By the way if I am doing a topmount installation with fillport up, will the fans in that setup have to be changed to do intake? Will the fans be facing up or down in such a situation. If they are up on intake would that be best for a top mount.? Your suggestions would be appreciated.
My case is a supertower. I have all the fans set on intake, except the rerar fan. That is a 140mm Noctua set on maximum speed. I have 2 double sets of 14omm fans for intake by the drive cage (they are all SSD's anyway), and I have a side 230mm fan on intake as well. Does that sound like a good setup to maximize my cooling. The only drawback I see is that to do that top installation for the H320 when it is available in a couple of weeks, I have 2 remove two 230mm top fans for intake, but you can't have it all. My case does Not have an option for a bottom installation. I already removed the heatsink on my slot C dimm module. I hope I do not have other issues with that cpu block on my Asus Crosshair V Formula Z motherboard. I seem to remember somebody saying you might have to do a little filing on the AMD backplate that Swiftech provides with H220/320 to make room for a proper fit of the cpu block.. I may have it wrong.
Edited by os2wiz - 6/13/13 at 4:56am
post #3904 of 20719
Quote:
Originally Posted by amorello View Post

H220 Custom Loop

Hey, I am helping my friend build a custom H220 build and just wanted to be sure I am suggesting him all the right parts because I am kinda new to wc too.
He has two EVGA GTX 670 FTW. Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
Is everything compatible are the fitting correct? how many of them does he need? How much tubing would he need? and will a res be necessary, if so which model and how big?
If there is any better part from a competitor or something feel free to share
The board is a Z77 Extreme4
Thank you very much, trusting you knowledge thumb.gif

10f should be enough for most builds. i would look at swiftech fittings as they tend to be cheaper and imo better. this says why.
Quote:
Originally Posted by os2wiz View Post

Thanks for the heads up on the screws. I presume you are only referring to a change in the fans , not in the mounting screws to the case.

another user did mention you wont puncture the chambers this may be true i dont know. but it is safe to presume that yes you have to worry about it with any rad, any screw
Quote:
Originally Posted by os2wiz View Post

That is great information. You are most helpful. By the way if I am doing a topmount installation with fillport up, will the fans in that setup have to be changed to do intake? Will the fans be facing up or down in such a situation. If they are up on intake would that be best for a top mount.? Your suggestions would be appreciated.
My case is a supertower. I have all the fans set on intake, except the rerar fan. That is a 140mm Noctua set on maximum speed. I have 2 double sets of 14omm fans for intake by the drive cage (they are all SSD's anyway), and I have a side 230mm fan on intake as well. Does that sound like a good setup to maximize my cooling. The only drawback I see is that to do that top installation for the H320 when it is available in a couple of weeks, I have 2 remove two 230mm top fans for intake, but you can't have it all. My case does Not have an option for a bottom installation. I already removed the heatsink on my slot C dimm module. I hope I do not have other issues with that cpu block on my Asus Crosshair V Formula Z motherboard. I seem to remember somebody saying you might have to do a little filing on the AMD backplate that Swiftech provides with H220/320 to make room for a proper fit of the cpu block.. I may have it wrong.
fans have 1 side that is connected to the housing ( usually looks like a "x" with the circle in the middle, usually has a sicker on it ) 99% of all fans if you look at that ( like in the pic ) the fan will be blowing towards you. make sure that you mount it accordingly
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post #3905 of 20719
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by os2wiz View Post

That is great information. You are most helpful. By the way if I am doing a topmount installation with fillport up, will the fans in that setup have to be changed to do intake? Will the fans be facing up or down in such a situation. If they are up on intake would that be best for a top mount.? Your suggestions would be appreciated.
My case is a supertower. I have all the fans set on intake, except the rerar fan. That is a 140mm Noctua set on maximum speed. I have 2 double sets of 14omm fans for intake by the drive cage (they are all SSD's anyway), and I have a side 230mm fan on intake as well. Does that sound like a good setup to maximize my cooling. The only drawback I see is that to do that top installation for the H320 when it is available in a couple of weeks, I have 2 remove two 230mm top fans for intake, but you can't have it all. My case does Not have an option for a bottom installation. I already removed the heatsink on my slot C dimm module. I hope I do not have other issues with that cpu block on my Asus Crosshair V Formula Z motherboard. I seem to remember somebody saying you might have to do a little filing on the AMD backplate that Swiftech provides with H220/320 to make room for a proper fit of the cpu block.. I may have it wrong.

The fans are pre-mounted so that they will be intake fans when the rad is mounted horizontally with the res facing up. This is the ideal position.

Bryan sent me some great info on how to bleed the loop pre-installation; I will add it to the OP when I can get to a computer. Currently on my phone.
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post #3906 of 20719
Quote:
Originally Posted by selk22 View Post

Well im glad to hear this as I was really contemplating going with 2 more helix fans instead of these super loud corsairs. As for my case im using a haf 932 and here is basically the same airflow I have going on but with 1 gpu and one addition front intake fan above my optical drive to cool the vram


I've found that the single rear exhaust is all that's needed in the vast majority of cases. Air from front intake fans located at or below the GPU level is almost completely exhausted by the GPU, this is more of an issue for air coolers though.
post #3907 of 20719
Quote:
Originally Posted by BramSLI1 View Post

The paint on the impeller signifies to us that it was balanced before being put into the pump and used in our H220 kit.
You know, One of my first thoughts was that it was some kind of balancing weight. As it was kind of thick and all. But then again, it was sticky, smeared on my thumb when I touched it, so I wiped it off. Maybe it was just sticky on the surface? Anyway, I was a bit worried, but then I forgot about it when I lifted the out the impeller and the magnet fell off. A bit surprised, and at the same time happy that the magnet didn't break, I picked it up and looked at it closer. Then I realized that the magnet was keyed to the axle and that I'd turned it so that I lost the orientation. 50/50 chance to put it back the right way! Gnnngh. Cursed aloud then, but it seem that either I was lucky, or that it didn't matter much. Now when I run the pump at max RPM I can balance a coin on it. So I think it is alright. Time will tell no doubt. I plan to test the H220 on my FX-8350, that CPU puts out a lot of heat when overclocked.
Quote:
The tiny white particles are also most likely plasticizer, just like Dudewitbow mentioned. This plasticizer shouldn't pose any harm to the pump or the performance of this kit.
Thanks, good to know. May I ask if this plasticizer particles normally are sticky? For a lot of them that were in my system smeared when I tried to wipe them off. I was more successful with running water.

And I must say I like the AMD brackets in this kit, better than the ones that were included in my Apogee Drive 2 kit.
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post #3908 of 20719
Here we go just water cooled my 3rd rig.... " ghetto rig" i5 3570k 7950s etc it is an x fire system but one card is off for rma.


    
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post #3909 of 20719
Quote:
Originally Posted by Skullwipe View Post

I've found that the single rear exhaust is all that's needed in the vast majority of cases. Air from front intake fans located at or below the GPU level is almost completely exhausted by the GPU, this is more of an issue for air coolers though.

Well my problem is that I have to often clean my fans and case probably once a month. That being said I find it much easier to clean when I have the top exhausting as opposed to intake because the room the computer sits in for now is a dusty one, there is no other place to keep it for now. The difference in temperature is actually extremely minimal, once I expand the 220 with an additional 120mm Rad and a GPU water block I will most likely have the 220 mounted on top as intake to cool the Vrm and also will have moved the computer. At that point also I plan to get a window instead of 4 900rpm 120mm Fans pointed as intake. Im new to WC so im hoping that this will all be sufficient for some decent OC's and low noise smile.gif
Edited by selk22 - 6/13/13 at 4:23pm
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post #3910 of 20719
Quote:
Originally Posted by selk22 View Post

Well my problem is that I have to often clean my fans and case probably once a month. That being said I find it much easier to clean when I have the top exhausting as opposed to intake because the room the computer sits in for now is a dusty one, there is no other place to keep it for now.

Silverstone magnetic dust filters are a life saver. You may get lucky like I did as well, got three struck together when I only ordered one...magnets FTW.

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