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post #4291 of 20789
Quote:
Originally Posted by TheGovernment View Post

Be careful what kind of tubing you buy with the swiftech 3/8-5/8 loc-seal fittings. I've got 10 of them sitting here that are useless since they won't fit the 4 different types of tubing I have here. I though they were supposed to fit xspc tubing so I bought 2 different kinds of high flex stuff. The tubing is to fat and you can just barely get the fittings to catch the thread and within a half turn they will start cutting into the tubing and are extremely hard to turn. Same goes for my promochill advanced lrt. it's a no go as well. They are super cheap feeling compared to the bitspower or koolance onces I have here that fit all the tubing.
If you compare the swiftech ones to the koolance or bitspower ones, the gap between the barb and the outer casing is quite a bit smaller. At the time, I never wanted to smash anything with a hammer more i my life as I'm still waiting for my new fittings to arrive hahaha

Mmm, I'm afraid it's not that.. I just measure a LokSeal 5/8 compression fitting against a 5/8 BP I had laying around..

LokSeal 5/8 Collet ID: 16.7mm
BP Collet ID: 16.5mm - So the BP collet is actually smaller than ours.

LokSeal 5/8 Barb OD: 12.65mm
BP Barb OD: 12.55mm

LokSeal barb body OD: 12.00mm
BP: 12.2mm

So:

LokSeal Gap between Collet and Barb OD: (16.7 - 12.65) / 2 = 2mm
BP Gap between Collet and Barb OD: (16.5 - 12.55) / 2= 1.98mm

Let me know if ours measurements concur.. You do need a caliper :-)
post #4292 of 20789
It's not the front gap, it's the back lip on the collet that is tight to the tubing. The lip is so tight against the tubing because the tubing is now stretched onto the barb. I'm not saying they don't work with any tubing but the xspc flex, promochill flex and feser active uv are so tight, if you ever got the tubing on there and the collet properly tightened,, it's would start to cut the tubing on the back. You can tighten it with wrenches if you have it out of the case with all those tubing's but how the heck are you gonna get the barbs attached to your gear with the tubing already on?
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post #4293 of 20789
What ever the reason the tubing doesn't fit, it doesn't fit. It's not like I wanted to spend another $70 on fittings ( yes I know I could have tried some other tubing but the stuff I have is the exact color I wanted).... It also could be the barb on the loc-seals pushes the tubing up farther because the barb is slightly bigger, making it prematurely tight on the back? I dunno. I mean it's not as if I'm the first guy that's had problems getting sometubing to fit on these..... I got these fittings from frozen cpu and shipping them back is not worth it as the shipping it's half of what I paid, since I'm in Canada lol.

Also the koolance fittings I have are .5mm bigger on the front and back of the collet, I just measured with a tapemeasure. My bitspower ones are on my res in my pc so I can't measure it but I'll take your word for it. biggrin.gif
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post #4294 of 20789
Quote:
Originally Posted by TheGovernment View Post

It's not the front gap, it's the back lip on the collet that is tight to the tubing. The lip is so tight against the tubing because the tubing is now stretched onto the barb. I'm not saying they don't work with any tubing but the xspc flex, promochill flex and feser active uv are so tight, if you ever got the tubing on there and the collet properly tightened,, it's would start to cut the tubing on the back. You can tighten it with wrenches if you have it out of the case with all those tubing's but how the heck are you gonna get the barbs attached to your gear with the tubing already on?

What you call the lip is what I am calling Collet ID.. so we are talking about the exact same thing..
I measured, and measurements can't be argued.. unless you have different measurements of course ;-)
post #4295 of 20789
Quote:
Originally Posted by TheGovernment View Post

What ever the reason the tubing doesn't fit, it doesn't fit. It's not like I wanted to spend another $70 on fittings ( yes I know I could have tried some other tubing but the stuff I have is the exact color I wanted).... It also could be the barb on the loc-seals pushes the tubing up farther because the barb is slightly bigger, making it prematurely tight on the back? I dunno. I mean it's not as if I'm the first guy that's had problems getting sometubing to fit on these..... I got these fittings from frozen cpu and shipping them back is not worth it as the shipping it's half of what I paid, since I'm in Canada lol.

Also the koolance fittings I have are .5mm bigger on the front and back of the collet, I just measured with a tapemeasure. My bitspower ones are on my res in my pc so I can't measure it but I'll take your word for it. biggrin.gif

I haven't measured the Koolance.. so IDK.

If you purchased the fittings from us direct, and they are apparently unused, you are welcome to send back. [EDIT] sorry just saw you bought from FCPU

One more detail: you really need a caliper to measure these things.. tape measure not precise enough..particularly for OD's and ID's (round bodies)
Edited by gabe@swiftech - 6/25/13 at 5:46pm
post #4296 of 20789
Quote:
Originally Posted by gabe@swiftech View Post

I haven't measured the Koolance.. so IDK.

If you purchased the fittings from us direct, and they are apparently unused, you are welcome to send back. [EDIT] sorry just saw you bought from FCPU

One more detail: you really need a caliper to measure these things.. tape measure not precise enough..particularly for OD's and ID's (round bodies)

I used a drafting compass and opened it up inside the circle then measured on a drafting tape measure. It's accurate to .1mm but the caliper would be ideal.
One fitting is used as I was wrenching on it but all the the others are new in their plastic cases. I'd keep 2 as I can still use them for my drain plugs but I'd have 8 to deal if anyone is interested.
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post #4297 of 20789
Quote:
Originally Posted by marc0053 View Post

I think you mean the 2.5in ssd tray?

Oh ok thats what that is...
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post #4298 of 20789
Quote:
Originally Posted by XxAlbertoxX View Post

For anyone that used noctua NF-f12 fans in place of the stock Helix fans, can you please tell me what screws you used?

I tried using the stock helix fans screwed that were used, but they are almost seemingly too small in length and I get get them to go through the noctua fan and make contact with the radiator?

PLEASE TELL ME

Didnt you get the long screws that come with the h220 for screwing in more fans?
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post #4299 of 20789
Quote:
Originally Posted by drnilly007 View Post

Didnt you get the long screws that come with the h220 for screwing in more fans?

Yeah but I wanted to save the long screws for when I add 2 more fans on the bottom of the radatior for push/pull.

Logically, then, the only screws I have that I could use would be the ones on the helix.

I ended up figuring it out and managed to get the Noctua Fans installed, if you read in the past you can see my posts.

I had to remove the brown rubber on the corners however, and aligning them was a bit of a pain in the ass but everything is screwed in a good to go.
post #4300 of 20789
So I was bypassing the PWM splitter because mine was dead from swiftech.

Everything was going fine.

They finally sent me a replacement PWM splitter and I plugged everything into it (CPU on CHA 1 and 2 radiator fans on the other 2 pins slots).

The only weird thing is my CPU temps are fluctuating pretty rapidly and I KEEP hearing the Noctua NF-F12 fans rev'ving up, almost like the RPM is slowing down then increasing in a cyclic matter....

It's really ANNOYING!

Should the fans be getting 100% power and going at 100% via the PWM splitter? or is it cycling the RPM based on temperature?

Should the settings be changed via BIOS or is their software to control this from swiftech ?
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