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post #4361 of 20731
Quote:
Originally Posted by RX7-2nr View Post

Does anyone know if there have been any revisions to the H220 yet?

Microcenter got them in (finally) and Ive been thinking about picking one up and paying the $10 or whatever for their replacement plan. If I have any issues I can just go to the store and get a new one and not have to mess with shipping, RMA, lengthy waits, and swapping back to a different cooler. Im wondering about the revisions because I would imagine that Microcenter would have some of the early batch that was not revised, if there were revisions of course.

I don't think there were any physical revisions to the unit. the main 2 categories are the original first batch that wasnt checked as much as the later ones. and well, the later ones that were checked. The only unit revision that comes off the top of my head that may or may not happen is changing the pwn splitter from molex to sata, which was talked about on the early stages of the unit but hasn't went anywhere as of yet.
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post #4362 of 20731
Quote:
Originally Posted by Skullwipe View Post

Back after a bit of a break, 300 messaged to read through...not sure I'm going to!

Does anyone know if the AP-15's can be modded for PWM control like the AP-31's? Side note: Finding reviews on PWM controlled radiator fans is like pulling your hair out.
the original AP15 dont have a 4th connector on it. There is this post here of the PWM Ap15.
D1225C12B5ZP-40 http://www.overclock.net/t/1364863/scythe-gentle-typhoon-ap-15-with-native-pwm-capability-d1225c12b5zp-40/0_50
I'm using the NF-P12 on my H220. I like the fans, due to no PWM tick noise at any speeds.
    
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post #4363 of 20731
Can someone please tell me how when I put the H220 cpu block on my brand new i7 4770k, both surfaces were flawlessly smooth, and then when I just went to re-do the thermal paste just 1 day ago it looked like this?:






They are on the same spot, and the cpu is scratched with a "copper color" so I know it's the h220.

How it did that, I have absolutely no idea.

Now I'm left puzzled & confused, although possibly completely unrelated, my system is dead at the moment.

Please refer to this thread by me:
http://www.overclock.net/t/1404951/computer-just-randomly-shut-off-no-blue-black-screen-but-getting-no-signal-to-monitor
post #4364 of 20731
Quote:
Originally Posted by RX7-2nr View Post

Does anyone know if there have been any revisions to the H220 yet?

Microcenter got them in (finally) and Ive been thinking about picking one up and paying the $10 or whatever for their replacement plan. If I have any issues I can just go to the store and get a new one and not have to mess with shipping, RMA, lengthy waits, and swapping back to a different cooler. Im wondering about the revisions because I would imagine that Microcenter would have some of the early batch that was not revised, if there were revisions of course.

I got mine from MC in April, no issues what so ever.
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post #4365 of 20731
Quote:
Originally Posted by XxAlbertoxX View Post

Can someone please tell me how when I put the H220 cpu block on my brand new i7 4770k, both surfaces were flawlessly smooth, and then when I just went to re-do the thermal paste just 1 day ago it looked like this?:






I sure cant answer that, not sure anyone can. What TIM was used?
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post #4366 of 20731
Quote:
Originally Posted by Watagump View Post

I sure cant answer that, not sure anyone can. What TIM was used?

STOCK TIM-mate that came with the H220.

from peoples responses, they say the scatches are harmless.

but i was still shocked because i take really good care of my components (handling by edges, wearing anti static band etc...),

so I was shocked to see the scratch on there after I took the CPU block off. then I noticed it was symmetrical with the CPU itself.
post #4367 of 20731
Quote:
Originally Posted by XxAlbertoxX View Post

STOCK TIM-mate that came with the H220.

from peoples responses, they say the scatches are harmless.

but i was still shocked because i take really good care of my components (handling by edges, wearing anti static band etc...),

so I was shocked to see the scratch on there after I took the CPU block off. then I noticed it was symmetrical with the CPU itself.

the only odd thing is, if you fliipped the cpu block over, the mark shouldnt be on the right* side if the mark on the cpu is on the left. it should be on the right, so it technically should not be in the same location, but supposed to be mirrored logically.
Edited by Dudewitbow - 6/28/13 at 12:31am
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post #4368 of 20731
Quote:
Originally Posted by yamaharacer19 View Post

You should consider flipping the H220 so you can make use of the reservoir to trap air.

That's not a bad idea. Not sure ow I would do it though. Doesn't seem like it would sit flat in the case if it was flipped. I could always cut a slot into the case. have the fill port poking out of the top (would be handy when I expand)
post #4369 of 20731
Quote:
Originally Posted by dtolios View Post

Well, I knew I was "pushing" it, but I was trying to avoid having to go through case changes (you can do 2x 240 in CM 690 II but not a 360) and a hefty open loop expense.

A quick calculation gave me almost 2x the price of a H220 for a decent XSPC Raystorm with 2x 240 Rads (an RS 240 and an RX 240), plus I would be having issues mounting the whole deal tiddly etc.
The H220 got in pretty fast, and looks clean and the such, but I really don't see the benefits from switching my hi-end air cooler.

I knew I would not be "sub-zero" with a 320+ W heat load (factoring in PSU efficiency, that's what the CPU alone is pulling), but I did not expect it to be that close to the Silver Arrow, especially with push pull (haven tried just with the stock fans).
Today is a pretty hot day in CA, and @ 100% load & 4.6GHz the CPU peaked @ 82oC (hottest core, 77oC coolest core), or around 49oC DT. Clearly out of what the poor H220 is designed for. Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
Question is:
* sell it straight out and stick with my SA which more or less is the same - at least for s2011 @ those voltages
* get an open loop with a 360 rad (+ new case, 540D anyone? perhaps die in the process when the better half sees the new tower) or 2x 240mm rads to stick in the 690 II
* add a 240mm rad to expand the H220...

ohh choices choices biggrin.gif

to everyone expecting push pull to move mountains. hate to break it to you. with the exception of the 60+mm thick rads ( and even with them ) push pull does not make a world of difference, with a good set of rad fans ( high static pressure ) i think people think more is better. i am here to tell you it is incorrect. you may.... and i do mean may see a 1-2c difference in push pull.... but i doubt it. i would recommend just getting a few extra rads though .

Quote:
Originally Posted by XxAlbertoxX View Post

Can someone please tell me how when I put the H220 cpu block on my brand new i7 4770k, both surfaces were flawlessly smooth, and then when I just went to re-do the thermal paste just 1 day ago it looked like this?: Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)



They are on the same spot, and the cpu is scratched with a "copper color" so I know it's the h220.

How it did that, I have absolutely no idea.

Now I'm left puzzled & confused, although possibly completely unrelated, my system is dead at the moment.

Please refer to this thread by me:
http://www.overclock.net/t/1404951/computer-just-randomly-shut-off-no-blue-black-screen-but-getting-no-signal-to-monitor

Quote:
Originally Posted by Watagump View Post

I sure cant answer that, not sure anyone can. What TIM was used?

+1
Quote:
Originally Posted by Snyderman34 View Post

That's not a bad idea. Not sure ow I would do it though. Doesn't seem like it would sit flat in the case if it was flipped. I could always cut a slot into the case. have the fill port poking out of the top (would be handy when I expand)
it is designed to have the fans mounted on the rad then you can mount it to your case.
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post #4370 of 20731
Hi, I ordered an h220 recently and it came today. Installed it fine in an arc midi r2 but when i went into the uefi, i noticed 80c idle temps so i checked if the pump was running. It was completely silent and not dectected by fan xpert. Should i return it to the store or see if swiftech can replace it?
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