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Swiftech H220/H320/H220X/H240X/H140X and CM Glacer 240L/360L Owners' Club - Page 438

post #4371 of 20723
Quote:
Originally Posted by Fleat View Post

Martins lab is a truly great resource, and I follow his work closely but you need to broaden your research. One persons result is not as valuable as twenty different results where you can draw your own conclusions. It doesn't matter how scientific that process the one person follows is. This is why large companies R&D is done in house and often validated by several other sources. A collection of testing is always more useful.
Idid not solely rely on Martins Lab. . And 20 different sources mean absolutely nothing if they are amateurish and do not set parameters to be exact for all test machines, so you can flail your arms , but it is all banter without substance. It would be far easier to just admit that you were subjective when you made your remarks about performance against other all in ones. Since you backtracked once already, bite the bullet and concede.'If that is too much for a dainty ego I understand. The matter is closed as far as I am concerned.
post #4372 of 20723
Quote:
Originally Posted by XxAlbertoxX View Post

Can someone please tell me how when I put the H220 cpu block on my brand new i7 4770k, both surfaces were flawlessly smooth, and then when I just went to re-do the thermal paste just 1 day ago it looked like this?:






They are on the same spot, and the cpu is scratched with a "copper color" so I know it's the h220.

How it did that, I have absolutely no idea.

Now I'm left puzzled & confused, although possibly completely unrelated, my system is dead at the moment.

Please refer to this thread by me:
http://www.overclock.net/t/1404951/computer-just-randomly-shut-off-no-blue-black-screen-but-getting-no-signal-to-monitor


this can happen if there was something inside tim or something fall just before you mounted the heatsink
    
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post #4373 of 20723
Quote:
Originally Posted by XxAlbertoxX View Post

STOCK TIM-mate that came with the H220.

from peoples responses, they say the scatches are harmless.

but i was still shocked because i take really good care of my components (handling by edges, wearing anti static band etc...),

so I was shocked to see the scratch on there after I took the CPU block off. then I noticed it was symmetrical with the CPU itself.

I had this happen during a mount with the H220 as well, but it shouldn't really affect performance that much.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Snyderman34 View Post

That's not a bad idea. Not sure ow I would do it though. Doesn't seem like it would sit flat in the case if it was flipped. I could always cut a slot into the case. have the fill port poking out of the top (would be handy when I expand)

It should sit flat in the case if the fans are mounted top side.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Turt1e View Post

Hi, I ordered an h220 recently and it came today. Installed it fine in an arc midi r2 but when i went into the uefi, i noticed 80c idle temps so i checked if the pump was running. It was completely silent and not dectected by fan xpert. Should i return it to the store or see if swiftech can replace it?

I would recommend trying to exchange it in the store. Swiftech is out of new H220's, and will replace your kit with a refurbished unit. Atlhough they make the RMA process fairly painless, I still think the store would be the less cumbersome option.

Quote:
Originally Posted by os2wiz View Post

Idid not solely rely on Martins Lab. . And 20 different sources mean absolutely nothing if they are amateurish and do not set parameters to be exact for all test machines, so you can flail your arms , but it is all banter without substance. It would be far easier to just admit that you were subjective when you made your remarks about performance against other all in ones. Since you backtracked once already, bite the bullet and concede.'If that is too much for a dainty ego I understand. The matter is closed as far as I am concerned.

I prefer to follow the scientific process approach, and evaluate all of my options through an assortment of research. This discussion became pointless when you resorted to personal attacks though. I have witnessed you do that in other posts / forums as well, and don't care to partake in it. It doesn't promote a healthy discussion and has no place in forums.
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post #4374 of 20723
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sp33d Junki3 View Post

the original AP15 dont have a 4th connector on it. There is this post here of the PWM Ap15.
D1225C12B5ZP-40 http://www.overclock.net/t/1364863/scythe-gentle-typhoon-ap-15-with-native-pwm-capability-d1225c12b5zp-40/0_50
I'm using the NF-P12 on my H220. I like the fans, due to no PWM tick noise at any speeds.

Those PWM AP-15's haven't been in stock on Amazon for a couple of months, and I've never seen them anywhere else. As for the Noctua fans, I can't stand their tone...
post #4375 of 20723
Quote:
Originally Posted by XxAlbertoxX View Post

STOCK TIM-mate that came with the H220.

from peoples responses, they say the scatches are harmless.

but i was still shocked because i take really good care of my components (handling by edges, wearing anti static band etc...),

so I was shocked to see the scratch on there after I took the CPU block off. then I noticed it was symmetrical with the CPU itself.

I recently pulled my H220 to see about turning it N/S vs W/E and also noticed similar markings on the H220 headscratch.gif( didn't see any
markings on my cpu though). Used provided Tim as well.
Reason I was trying to re-orient the pump was while facing W/E tubing is very tight up against the 1st dimm ( actually best to pull dimm
to ease the install). Unfortunately N/S orientation is not possible on the Z87 Sabertooth because the heatsink. mad.gif
I had pulled the 1st dimm (safety concerns/paranoid ??) soon after initial install and am looking into other water cooling solutions. Its
unfortunate that the H220 is not as compatible with the Z87 Sabertooth as I would like because it seems to be a good cooling unit .
Any recommendations other than removing the 1st dimm appreciated for this H220 or recommendations for other AIO for the Sabertooth.
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post #4376 of 20723
Will take pictures and provide so the Z87 Sabertooth can be added to the Known Motherboard incompatibility issues for both Dimm and heat sink concerns.
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post #4377 of 20723
Quote:
Originally Posted by Turt1e View Post

Hi, I ordered an h220 recently and it came today. Installed it fine in an arc midi r2 but when i went into the uefi, i noticed 80c idle temps so i checked if the pump was running. It was completely silent and not dectected by fan xpert. Should i return it to the store or see if swiftech can replace it?

Sent you a PM.
post #4378 of 20723
Quote:
Originally Posted by Turt1e View Post

Hi, I ordered an h220 recently and it came today. Installed it fine in an arc midi r2 but when i went into the uefi, i noticed 80c idle temps so i checked if the pump was running. It was completely silent and not dectected by fan xpert. Should i return it to the store or see if swiftech can replace it?
Try to remount it again.
Also how is the H220 connected? Explain what settings used in bios for fan control.
Edited by Sp33d Junki3 - 6/28/13 at 8:24am
    
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post #4379 of 20723
Quote:
Originally Posted by Teufelshunde View Post

I recently pulled my H220 to see about turning it N/S vs W/E and also noticed similar markings on the H220 headscratch.gif( didn't see any
markings on my cpu though). Used provided Tim as well.
Reason I was trying to re-orient the pump was while facing W/E tubing is very tight up against the 1st dimm ( actually best to pull dimm
to ease the install). Unfortunately N/S orientation is not possible on the Z87 Sabertooth because the heatsink. mad.gif
I had pulled the 1st dimm (safety concerns/paranoid ??) soon after initial install and am looking into other water cooling solutions. Its
unfortunate that the H220 is not as compatible with the Z87 Sabertooth as I would like because it seems to be a good cooling unit .
Any recommendations other than removing the 1st dimm appreciated for this H220 or recommendations for other AIO for the Sabertooth.
I have the Z77, which is the same layout as the Z87. You can use the first dimm slot, as the H220 slightly pushes on the ram. Which really wasnt noticeable or affect performance. I since then got very low profile ram and only 2 sticks, of 2x8gb move over to dimm 2/4.
Havent tries N/E, dont like the look of it.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Skullwipe View Post


Those PWM AP-15's haven't been in stock on Amazon for a couple of months, and I've never seen them anywhere else. As for the Noctua fans, I can't stand their tone...
Those you see in video are the NF-F12, not the NF-P12, which is what I use. Very different fans.
Edited by Sp33d Junki3 - 6/28/13 at 8:22am
    
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Intel 3770k @ 4.2Ghz Asus Z77 Sabertooth EVGA GTX1060 3GB Crucial Ballistix Tactical 16GB BLT2K8G3D1608ET... 
Hard DriveHard DriveHard DriveHard Drive
Crucial MX100 512GB Corsair Force 115GB WD Green 1TB WD Green 2TB 
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post #4380 of 20723
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sp33d Junki3 View Post

I have the Z77, which is the same layout as the Z87. You can use the first dimm slot, as the H220 slightly pushes on the ram. Which really wasnt noticeable or affect performance. I since then got very low profile ram and only 2 sticks, of 2x8gb move over to dimm 2/4.
Havent tries N/E, dont like the look of it.
Those you see in video are the NF-F12, not the NF-P12, which is what I use. Very different fans.

My understanding is that the P12's have slightly lower pressure and air flow, but seeing as the H220 uses a low FPI radiator I guess that really won't matter. Sadly martin doesn't have a video up for the P12's, and it's hard to compare sounds if the testing isn't standardized, know what I mean?

Edit: I run my fans on a separate header than the Pump, so I guess I don't need to stick with PWM control. I don't think running two AP-15's off a single header should be an issue.
Edited by Skullwipe - 6/28/13 at 8:31am
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