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Swiftech H220/H320/H220X/H240X/H140X and CM Glacer 240L/360L Owners' Club - Page 470

post #4691 of 20727
Quote:
Originally Posted by chemicalbuz View Post

what about this one? http://www.corsair.com/us/vengeance-low-profile-8gb-dual-channel-ddr3-memory-kit-cml8gx3m2a1866c9r.html
it is 26.55mm tall
i also checked crucial ballistic sports that you suggested
http://www.crucial.com/store/partspecs.aspx?IMODULE=BLS2K4G3D1609ES2LX0
they say they are 30mm tall, so corsair ones should fit even better. Am i right?
do you mean i can choose how to rotate the waterblock? so am i free to set it with tubing on sides or on top and bottom?
BTW can you show me the pic you are talking about please cause i tried to find it but i didn't, thanks

That ram based on their pictures looks much taller than the crucial or samsung green ram. In the case of both sticks I suggested, the tallest part is no higher than the top of the DIMM slot itself, the upper stopper for the slot sits on the top corners of the ram when it is fully inserted. The vengeance ram looks like it sits above the DIMM slot.
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post #4692 of 20727
Quote:
Originally Posted by justanoldman View Post

CLU or CLP do not do anything to copper, they will destroy aluminum though. With time, elbow grease, and metal polish you can remove all the CLU from the H220 cold plate without do any damage to anything. There is no need to use anything abrasive. If you do, for whatever reason, lap the cold plate that will void your warranty though.

I use CLU, but I don’t recommend using it with your cooler unless people really know what they are getting into when it is time to clean it up. You will only get 2-4 c better than a good standard TIM like MX-4, so most just use that. CLU or CLP on the die of a delidded chip is necessary to get the best temps though.

Only reason I can see using mx4 on the IHS vs CLU is you would probably have to delid again and reapp on the die, if anything down the road happened, I might regret using CLU on the IHS I might not. Seeing lots of faulty H220 posts so I'm hoping I'm in that margin that doesn't have a faulty unit.
     
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post #4693 of 20727
Quote:
Originally Posted by jbduck View Post

Has anyone tried if the H220 fits with Sabertooth Z87 and the Fractal Design R4 case? I am thinking about buying the R4 but i want to be sure that it fits before i buy it. I have planned to put it on the top.
You fit in the Arc Midi R2, which you avoid clearance issues.
Quote:
Originally Posted by junzo View Post

Does any one know if the h220 will fit in a bitfenix Shinobi (non XL version)
Shinobi do not have support for 240 rad. You will need to mod the case to support it.
    
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post #4694 of 20727
Can someone guide me through the RMA process for my swiftech h220 which appears to have a dead pump?

I have bypassed the PWM splitter and even tried (2) seperate headers ( CPU_FAN and CPU_OP)on my Asus z87 sabertooth motherboard and I still get the CPU fan error.

I already removed the unit so if someone can guide me...
post #4695 of 20727
Quote:
Originally Posted by XxAlbertoxX View Post

Can someone guide me through the RMA process for my swiftech h220 which appears to have a dead pump?

I have bypassed the PWM splitter and even tried (2) seperate headers ( CPU_FAN and CPU_OP)on my Asus z87 sabertooth motherboard and I still get the CPU fan error.

I already removed the unit so if someone can guide me...

Please send me a PM and I'll guide you through our RMA process. You can also email me directly at bryan@swiftech.com.
post #4696 of 20727
So I RMA'd my original unit and now after having this new one for a few weeks it just started making a very loud buzzing noise... is this a sign for an incoming failure?
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post #4697 of 20727
Quote:
Originally Posted by jderbs View Post

So I RMA'd my original unit and now after having this new one for a few weeks it just started making a very loud buzzing noise... is this a sign for an incoming failure?

Probably not. Most likely it's just an air bubble that's gotten pulled into the pump. Please follow the instructions in the OP and let me know if that resolves your issue.
post #4698 of 20727
I have found, these pumps aren't easy to prime. Once you get it primed fully though it works great. I rated my first unit a few weeks ago and it's been running fantastic. Also much quieter. Would have been curious to see what was up with my old one...

Sent from my SCH-I605 using Tapatalk 2
post #4699 of 20727
Quote:
Originally Posted by BramSLI1 View Post

Probably not. Most likely it's just an air bubble that's gotten pulled into the pump. Please follow the instructions in the OP and let me know if that resolves your issue.

Any chance it will go away on it's own? Can't really mess around with it until this weekend.
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post #4700 of 20727
Quote:
Originally Posted by jderbs View Post

Any chance it will go away on it's own? Can't really mess around with it until this weekend.

It could go away on it's own, but it most likely will require a little attention to push it out. Please let me know though if the instructions in the OP are unable to resolve your issue.
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