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Swiftech H220/H320/H220X/H240X/H140X and CM Glacer 240L/360L Owners' Club - Page 610

post #6091 of 20727
Quote:
Originally Posted by bond32 View Post

Some photos for jinjat:



Note the vrm heatsink, when it comes down to the northbridge it gets larger which means a tight fit if you mount the pump with the inlet on the DIMM side. The orientation I have is the best as it has no real issues with fitment except the loss of the 2 black dimm slots.

You really need to add a radiator in the front and put those cards under water. biggrin.gif
post #6092 of 20727
Quote:
Originally Posted by bobsaget View Post

Hey everyone,

i'm going to change the tubing this week.
I've got a small but annoying issue with the included screws.

There are 2 kinds of screws in the H220 bundle, the short ones and the long ones.
The H220 is at the top of the case, fans on top of the rad, in a pull setup.
RAD=>FANS=>CASE thumb.gif

The most convenient setup is to use the short swiftech screws between fans and rad, and then standard fan screws between case and fans.

The problem is that I also use NB eLoop PWM fans instead of the original Helix fans and it's impossible to use the short Swiftech screws because the fan holes are a little "raised" compared to the Helix fans because of the anti vibration pads. That is why the short screws are too short to attach the rad and fans together.


The only way i was able to mount the whole thing was to use the long screws only, and screw everything together at the same time. It was quite painful to hold the rad and fans with one hand, try not to budge the fans, and align both of them with the case and use the screwdriver.

I don't want to do that again after i replace the tubing.

Any idea? thanks

I hope i made myself clear biggrin.gif

My setup is the same, long screws through the case, fans, then into the RAD. Once you get the hang of it, its not hard. Plus, its not like you are going to be removing everything on a regular basis.
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post #6093 of 20727
Quote:
Originally Posted by BramSLI1 View Post

You really need to add a radiator in the front and put those cards under water. biggrin.gif

It's in the works, I have the second gpu block on order. Also had the 360 rad in hand... Just installed it for fun.



Edit: here's a bench at 5.1 ghz... http://www.3dmark.com/3dm11/7040708
post #6094 of 20727
Not sure if this is the right place to ask but would anyone know whats the difference between the 2L 12 and 2H06 markings on the back side of the Gentle Typhoon AP15
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post #6095 of 20727
Hey all, I just finished installing my H220 (getting that backplate on sure was fun) and I have kicked off a leak test and was curious as to how loud the pump is. Upon hooking up the pump to my power supply I was surprised that I couldn't really hear anything coming from it. Putting my fingers on the tubing running to the radiator it feels like vibration/movement is going on, feels like water is being pushed through the tubes but because I can't really distinctly hear the pump I am kind of worried of whether or not water is being pushed through.

Maybe I should turn off the fans on the radiator as I have them hooked up and running as well?
post #6096 of 20727
Quote:
Originally Posted by SleazyC View Post

Hey all, I just finished installing my H220 (getting that backplate on sure was fun) and I have kicked off a leak test and was curious as to how loud the pump is. Upon hooking up the pump to my power supply I was surprised that I couldn't really hear anything coming from it. Putting my fingers on the tubing running to the radiator it feels like vibration/movement is going on, feels like water is being pushed through the tubes but because I can't really distinctly hear the pump I am kind of worried of whether or not water is being pushed through.

Maybe I should turn off the fans on the radiator as I have them hooked up and running as well?

If the pump is running at full speed, even deaf people can hear it. Mine runs at around 1200 and its whisper quiet.
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post #6097 of 20727
Quote:
Originally Posted by Watagump View Post

If the pump is running at full speed, even deaf people can hear it. Mine runs at around 1200 and its whisper quiet.
It's connected to my power supply via the included PWM splitter, the pump is connected on channel 1. I thought that if any fan or pump is connected to the power supply it runs at 100%? If that's the case something definitely might be up with my pump as it must be running at less than 100%.

I'll likely connect all other components sometime tomorrow to see if the pump is actually working or not but wanted to get some leak testing in tonight and if the pump is having problems not sure how successful that testing will be.
post #6098 of 20727
nah they are pretty silent, in general all pumps are pretty silent , make sure you have it hooked up to a pwm header
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post #6099 of 20727
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mega Man View Post

nah they are pretty silent, in general all pumps are pretty silent , make sure you have it hooked up to a pwm header
Even for leak testing? I don't have the motherboard currently plugged in and just am running the pump's power connector directly to the PWM splitter channel 1. The PWM splitter is only connected to my power supply via a molex plug. The other connector is not connected to anything currently.
post #6100 of 20727
for leak testing you shoudl be fine, just as long as you're using the splitter (the 4 pin connector coming from the splitter does not have to be hooked to anything)
 
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