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Swiftech H220/H320/H220X/H240X/H140X and CM Glacer 240L/360L Owners' Club - Page 623

post #6221 of 20724
Quote:
Originally Posted by Snyderman34 View Post

Just got my RMA in today and got it reinstalled. SO much better. All the noise is completely gone. Running it at 50% and it's nice and quiet.

Glad to hear it. Let me know if I can be of any further assistance.
post #6222 of 20724
Quote:
Originally Posted by BramSLI1 View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by EarlZ View Post

The label says distilled water so i assumed its the same thing, i only added less than 5 drops and thats it.

Your last statement sounds like my pump is defective rather than a trapped air issue.

If it says "distilled water" then it should be good. Let me know if you're able to resolve your issue.

Unfortunately its not resolved in over 5 hours if tilting and gently shaking the rad/pc. As what someone has mentioned i might be a defective pump. Ive sent you a PM.
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post #6223 of 20724
Quote:
Originally Posted by BramSLI1 View Post

These should all have the latest updates to design.

Thanks for the good news.
post #6224 of 20724
Bought the H220 in March, just installed it a few days ago, and it is fantastic. Zero noise cooling a 2500K @ 5GHz with 1.512v.
Temps stayed in the low 70s during Prime.

However, today morning when cold booting, temps went to the 80c just loading Windows.
Using the supplied controller with the pump in CH1, the pump reading was 0 rpm (it was 3000rpm). After several reboots its back on again.

It also happened an hour ago and refused to turn back on until I changed the location of the 4-pin plug from CH1 to the 2nd connector on the controller, then it was fine again. Did a few Cinebench runs with temps staying in the mid-to-high 50s.

Now it just happened again (temps rising fast during idle with 1600MHz speed @ 0.9v), so I just shut it down.

What does it mean? How can I prevent it from happening again?

The pump is perfectly silent when running (no grinding noise or whine) & cools amazingly so I don't think its faulty......

Cheers,
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post #6225 of 20724
Quote:
Originally Posted by eXXon View Post

Bought the H220 in March, just installed it a few days ago, and it is fantastic. Zero noise cooling a 2500K @ 5GHz with 1.512v.
Temps stayed in the low 70s during Prime.

However, today morning when cold booting, temps went to the 80c just loading Windows.
Using the supplied controller with the pump in CH1, the pump reading was 0 rpm (it was 3000rpm). After several reboots its back on again.

It also happened an hour ago and refused to turn back on until I changed the location of the 4-pin plug from CH1 to the 2nd connector on the controller, then it was fine again. Did a few Cinebench runs with temps staying in the mid-to-high 50s.

Now it just happened again (temps rising fast during idle with 1600MHz speed @ 0.9v), so I just shut it down.

What does it mean? How can I prevent it from happening again?

The pump is perfectly silent when running (no grinding noise or whine) & cools amazingly so I don't think its faulty......

Cheers,

Please PM me and I'll help you figure this out.
post #6226 of 20724
Quote:
Originally Posted by BramSLI1 View Post

Please PM me and I'll help you figure this out.

PM'ed and thanks again. Will be getting the H320 for the 3930K very soon thumb.gif
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post #6227 of 20724
Still have to RMA this particular H220 unit as this pump keeps failing from time to time randomly causing the PC to crash hard!

But... One last update on temps after one month installation. Added a push fan to the 120 rad in the back until the custom loop stuff is in the budget next month. This MAX temp is from a barely playable 5760 x 1080 Crysis 3 on high settings with an OC of +185 / +295 on an ASUS 670GTX DCUII 4GB SLI setup, EK waterblocks and pump on direct PWM mobo header.




Setup again for reference not including the push fan on the 120 rad and I removed the Sound Blaster Z and selling that.




Really impressed being that these rads are only fair in performance, and not fully push / pull. This HAS to be the best AIO once all the kinks are worked out of the design. thumb.gif
post #6228 of 20724
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by B3L13V3R View Post

Still have to RMA this particular H220 unit as this pump keeps failing from time to time randomly causing the PC to crash hard!

But... One last update on temps after one month installation. Added a push fan to the 120 rad in the back until the custom loop stuff is in the budget next month. This MAX temp is from a barely playable 5760 x 1080 Crysis 3 on high settings with an OC of +185 / +295 on an ASUS 670GTX DCUII 4GB SLI setup, EK waterblocks and pump on direct PWM mobo header.




Setup again for reference not including the push fan on the 120 rad and I removed the Sound Blaster Z and selling that.




Really impressed being that these rads are only fair in performance, and not fully push / pull. This HAS to be the best AIO once all the kinks are worked out of the design. thumb.gif

Are you in the states? Mine had this issue and it was because of the original design impeller. If you have the knowledge and confidence to drain the loop and open the pump with the top 4 screws, Swiftech can send you the new impeller for the RMA to speed the process. It's really easy to replace, and is how I fixed my unit.
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post #6229 of 20724
Quote:
Originally Posted by kikibgd View Post

anyone tried this?
i dont recommend it, it is an OLD remedy from the stating days of water cooling ( IE back when you had to make your own blocks... and i have seen some cool designs )
Quote:
Originally Posted by EarlZ View Post

I now have the fill cap open and placed the radiator on top of my case with lots of towels, I still have the block connected to the CPU while running at full speed.
I noticed that is a lot of black tiny particles floating and even from the bottom of the cap, is this normal ?

The liquid is pretty much at the very tip of it..
yes it is normal for these units you can use a coffee filter to filter it there is a known filtering issue / it could also be manufacturing debris very common with any brand of pc watercooling
Quote:
Originally Posted by Pholostan View Post

A drop of dishwashing liquid in distilled water? Sure. It destroys the surface tension, makes it much easier to get air bubbles out of your loop. Same effect as those overpriced "water wetter" products. Keep in mind though that a drop of dishwashing liquid even in distilled water probably will contribute a lot to algae buildup in you loop. Diluted dishwashing liquid is food for bacteria et al. So it depends on how often you clean you loop. I haven't kept a loop like that running for longer than a couple of months.

Edit: Also keep in mind that ordinary dish soap foam a lot. I've only used it when frustrated and tired. Would not recommend it really.
+1 not reccomended
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
Quote:
Originally Posted by EarlZ View Post

Its been an hour or so and no changes, I have the fill port open.. added just a few drops of distilled drinking water and tried to tilt the case / rad around.. do I need to remove it off teh CPU socket?

EDIT:

I have prime95 running small FTT, no fans on the radiator (stock speeds/volts) and I noticed that the water would slowly raise and over flow from the fill port, is that normal when heat is introduced? Its at around 88-90c and the radiator feels very hot but at the same time it also puts the pump noise to where it was for a few mins but becomes noisy again at a later time with an audible water trickle noise.

EDIT2:
After about 5hours of trying to eliminate the pump noise with no results I decided to just close the fill port and tried running prime95 to heat up the radiator/water and in about 3mins of SmallFTT the pump is very silent, RPM is still at 2900-3000 when the radiator cools down the noise returns.. anyone know what is going on ?
see below it is normal water like anything expands
Quote:
Originally Posted by michael-ocn View Post

I don't own an h220 and am not super familiar with water cooling tech, but that doesn't sound like a problem with trapped air to me?
bottled drinking water is not distilled water, just want to make sure you're aware of the difference
water expands slightly as it heats, so a rise in water levels with that much additional heat is not surprising
just a guess, but the internal pump components will also react to high heat and the geometry changes enough to provide clearance for a spinning part that is rubbing up against another part without the presence of the heat
see below.
distilled water is made for drinking mainly health nutz lol
water expands more then you would think so yes it is normal
there are materials designed not to expand much under heat and there are ways to prevent impellers from rubbing

Quote:
Originally Posted by EarlZ View Post

The label says distilled water so i assumed its the same thing, i only added less than 5 drops and thats it.

Your last statement sounds like my pump is defective rather than a trapped air issue.
nah it probably is air Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
Quote:
Originally Posted by B3L13V3R View Post

Still have to RMA this particular H220 unit as this pump keeps failing from time to time randomly causing the PC to crash hard!

But... One last update on temps after one month installation. Added a push fan to the 120 rad in the back until the custom loop stuff is in the budget next month. This MAX temp is from a barely playable 5760 x 1080 Crysis 3 on high settings with an OC of +185 / +295 on an ASUS 670GTX DCUII 4GB SLI setup, EK waterblocks and pump on direct PWM mobo header.




Setup again for reference not including the push fan on the 120 rad and I removed the Sound Blaster Z and selling that.




Really impressed being that these rads are only fair in performance, and not fully push / pull. This HAS to be the best AIO once all the kinks are worked out of the design. thumb.gif

and the patent trolling is fixed. i hate patent trolls *cough cough apple *
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post #6230 of 20724
woah can we get pictures of the new impeller? lol interesting..

my 2nd pump is still working sort of, at minimum speed it makes a ticking noise. I wont RMA unless it gets worse or stops altogether.
Edited by ez12a - 8/26/13 at 11:06pm
 
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