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Swiftech H220/H320/H220X/H240X/H140X and CM Glacer 240L/360L Owners' Club - Page 632

post #6311 of 20731
I have removed the splitter and plugged directly into the CPU header. The pump still runs at over 3000 RPM. In a little over an hour I'll restart and check to see if something in the bios could be affecting it. I used an old YouTube video to ensure the settings were correct. I'll double check that and then I guess I'll have to wait a bit while I RMA the H220. It was working great up until last night but this noise is unbearable.

The motherboard is 3+ year's old. Could something be wrong there? All specs are filled out. Thank you all for the suggestions and help so far.
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post #6312 of 20731
Quote:
Originally Posted by confed View Post

I have removed the splitter and plugged directly into the CPU header. The pump still runs at over 3000 RPM. In a little over an hour I'll restart and check to see if something in the bios could be affecting it. I used an old YouTube video to ensure the settings were correct. I'll double check that and then I guess I'll have to wait a bit while I RMA the H220. It was working great up until last night but this noise is unbearable.

The motherboard is 3+ year's old. Could something be wrong there? All specs are filled out. Thank you all for the suggestions and help so far.

Have you tried plugging anything else into the CPU fan header to see if it's an issue with the header itself?
post #6313 of 20731
Quote:
Originally Posted by BramSLI1 View Post

Have you tried plugging anything else into the CPU fan header to see if it's an issue with the header itself?

I have not tried that. I'm drawing a blank here (I blame work partially) on how to safely test the header if I remove the H220. I currently do not have a heatsink to replace this with. Sorry for the ignorance/inexperience.
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post #6314 of 20731
Quote:
Originally Posted by confed View Post

I have not tried that. I'm drawing a blank here (I blame work partially) on how to safely test the header if I remove the H220. I currently do not have a heatsink to replace this with. Sorry for the ignorance/inexperience.

What board are you working with? You went to bed and PC was turned on or off? Did you have a power failure in your house last night?

I am asking all this questions because it is possible that your BIOS have reverted to default state for some reason. And if that default is a cpu fan header volt regulated that might cause your pump to run at full speed since its not getting the PWM signal from the board. So, try to go to your BIOS and MB manual and see the proper configuration for the cpu fan header be in a PWM state.

Hope that helps.
post #6315 of 20731
Quote:
Originally Posted by confed View Post

I have not tried that. I'm drawing a blank here (I blame work partially) on how to safely test the header if I remove the H220. I currently do not have a heatsink to replace this with. Sorry for the ignorance/inexperience.

You should be able to just use one of the fans that this kit came with. Check to see if you can control the speed of the fan with it plugged into this header. If you can't then you'll know it's an issue with the board. When doing this just let the pump default to full speed off of the splitter.
post #6316 of 20731
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gabrielzm View Post

What board are you working with? You went to bed and PC was turned on or off? Did you have a power failure in your house last night?

I am asking all this questions because it is possible that your BIOS have reverted to default state for some reason. And if that default is a cpu fan header volt regulated that might cause your pump to run at full speed since its not getting the PWM signal from the board. So, try to go to your BIOS and MB manual and see the proper configuration for the cpu fan header be in a PWM state.

Hope that helps.

Thanks for the suggestion. That is what I'm doing after work. The computer was on when I went to bed. It remained on through the night. The Overclock remains and there are no other signs that there was an issue. I stayed connected to mumble and other applications throughout the whole evening.

The motherboard is P8P67 Pro Rev 3.1.
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post #6317 of 20731
Quote:
Originally Posted by confed View Post

Thanks for the suggestion. That is what I'm doing after work. The computer was on when I went to bed. It remained on through the night. The Overclock remains and there are no other signs that there was an issue. I stayed connected to mumble and other applications throughout the whole evening.

The motherboard is P8P67 Pro Rev 3.1.

Ok quick inspection of your manual and only cpu_fan have the potential to be PWM controlled. If your BIOS is similar to current Asus boards I guess you will have a option in BIOS to " manually" control the cpu-fan header. That will make sure that the header is actually in PWM mode if I am not mistaken...

good luck
post #6318 of 20731
Man, thanks to all of you for helping me troubleshoot this issue. I have recorded a video of what it sounds like. Please disregard the sound of the fans and the sound of my wife typing away as she works. You can hear how it is no longer at full speed but makes huge jumps in RPM and creates that noise.

Gabriel, I tried your suggestion and the problem persisted. The setup ran perfectly fine for almost 2 months without making changes to BIOS. The only recent changes in my BIOS were to achieve my 5ghz OC which has been stable for about a week. Please let me know if you all have any other suggestions. Since the pump is changing speeds from 1800rpm to 3500 rpm I am guessing that the problem is not the CPU Header.

The current setup has the pump directly into the CPU header and the 2 fans running off of my front fan controller. That and the rear exhaust fan (also running off the controller) is the constant sound you hear in the video.
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Windows 10 Professional Acer XB280HK Poker II EVGA 850 G2 
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post #6319 of 20731
What's the problem with connecting the pump straight into the PWM header (CPU_Fan) on my motherboard instead of using the supplied switch? I don't need my fans to be PWM controlled only the pump. I really don't want to figure out a way to bring the switch into the case if I don't have to.
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post #6320 of 20731
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ragsters View Post

What's the problem with connecting the pump straight into the PWM header (CPU_Fan) on my motherboard instead of using the supplied switch? I don't need my fans to be PWM controlled only the pump. I really don't want to figure out a way to bring the switch into the case if I don't have to.

Have been discussed here many many times before. The pwm splitter makes sure the pump gets 12 v stable coming from PSU. Besides, several boards have dual function cpu fan header and if setting in BIOS are wrong (e.g to volt control the cpu fan) then you will damage your pump. In theory you can run from cpu fan header but due to both points above it is safer to run from the splitter. Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
Quote:
Originally Posted by confed View Post

Man, thanks to all of you for helping me troubleshoot this issue. I have recorded a video of what it sounds like. Please disregard the sound of the fans and the sound of my wife typing away as she works. You can hear how it is no longer at full speed but makes huge jumps in RPM and creates that noise.

Gabriel, I tried your suggestion and the problem persisted. The setup ran perfectly fine for almost 2 months without making changes to BIOS. The only recent changes in my BIOS were to achieve my 5ghz OC which has been stable for about a week. Please let me know if you all have any other suggestions. Since the pump is changing speeds from 1800rpm to 3500 rpm I am guessing that the problem is not the CPU Header.

The current setup has the pump directly into the CPU header and the 2 fans running off of my front fan controller. That and the rear exhaust fan (also running off the controller) is the constant sound you hear in the video.
Confed I got a little confused. Did you change anything after my post in BIOS settings or the pump just start going crazy from 1800 rpm to 3000? Also you can do as Bryan said (BRAMSLI) and keep the pump running from the molex alone and use the helix fan from the h220 kit to hook in the cpu fan header and see if you can control the fan speed. Better yet, if you have a volt controlled fan (3 pin) you can hok it p to the pu fan header and check if your motherboard is changing the rpm of such fan. That would indicate that despite the PWM capable fan header it is running in volt mode...

I will try latter to see your video right now I am off...

Really hope that helps. Sometimes the BIOS can reverse itself to other setting and we can go crazy trying to find the problem. Off to some beers now....

cheers.gif
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