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Swiftech H220/H320/H220X/H240X/H140X and CM Glacer 240L/360L Owners' Club - Page 709

post #7081 of 20809
Oh we probably have but it was rather late yesterday evening and supermarkets are only open to 20:00-21:00 here. Smaller village eh smile.gif
Thundahcat.
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Thundahcat.
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post #7082 of 20809
I'm about to start putting my build together in Switch 810, just wondering which fan setup would be best for the top mounted H320 - intake, pushing air in through the rad, or exhaust, pulling air out through the rad.

Position of other fans:
Front: 2x140 intake
Rear: 1x140 exhaust
???: 1x140 (either internal on the top drive cage, helping air from the front travel toward the rear exhaust, or bottom intake...

Intake on the H320 would mean only one exhaust fan, not sure how good overall flow would be.
Exhaust would mean using air from inside the case to cool the rad, might not be as effective, and negative air pressure (2 in 4 out), which I hear is bad for dust.

... thinking about it, I buy two more fans so I can have 2x140 bottom intake, so I have 4 intake and 4 exhaust including the H320.
Edited by crabula - 10/16/13 at 12:33am
    
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post #7083 of 20809
I myself prefer top intake.

I use top intake, rear 140mm exaust, front 5'25" bay 140mm exaust, bottom intake, lower front intake in my HAF932 Adv.

Top intake has always given me better temps on the CPU and hardly even affects the other temps in the system. Also, it being intake, it's blowing air over my VRM heatsink cooling it about 10c better compared to rad outtake.
Thundahcat.
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Thundahcat.
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post #7084 of 20809
Quote:
Originally Posted by Imprezzion View Post

I myself prefer top intake.

Thanks. Would still be fine even with only the rear fan exhausting air?

I'm also trying to figure out if I should mount the block/pump to the CPU with the mobo in or out of the case... I'm thinking mobo+rad installed in the case with the case on its back would be easiest to then mount the block, so long as the backplate stays in place. If I do it with the mobo outside the case, managing the rad+tubes might be difficult when trying to install the mobo.

Any help much appreciated.
Edited by crabula - 10/16/13 at 2:41am
    
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post #7085 of 20809
Hello @BramSLI1

I got my Swiftech H320 today but the product was damaged. I am from India and the distributor for Swiftech Products in India is Tirupathi Enterprises (Overclockers Zone). This is the link from where I purchased the cooler: http://www.flipkart.com/swiftech-h320-cooler/p/itmdn4q3uhpckpsf?pid=COLDN4Q2DXDUSRB2

I reported this to the retailer and they rejected my concern citing that the cooler was new and requested me to send the pics. I have sent them the pics and still no response from them about the replacement nor the refund.

The packaging was good but once I opened the packaging, I see the cooler having a large dent near the reservoir. Even the paint was ripped off. Below is what I noticed:

1. The Reservoir has a large dent. What will I do if I have to RMA in the future if something goes wrong. What if you guys reject citing physical damage. ??????
2. The paint is ripped off on the reservoir. They how they tell blindly that the cooler was new
3. Even the thermal paste was not packed properly as the cap of the thermal paste was beneath the foam padding
4. I noticed only 3 screws & 3 springs for the LGA 2011 kit included. Where's the fourth one? I dont remember having any socket with 3 screw mountings????
5. Even the foam padding inside the box is damaged. I dont think they check the product before dispatching it?
6. The fins at the back of the radiator are heavily damaged. Some of the fins are broken as well.

Why will a customer lie about the product if this was what he wanted. This is an expensive product and not some cheap ****. I expected a better response but they send me a template.

Please assist.

IMG_19700102_055006.jpg 413k .jpg file
IMG_19700102_054900.jpg 524k .jpg file
IMG_19700102_055031.jpg 304k .jpg file
post #7086 of 20809
Did you check if this product was used before you opened it (packaging)? It seems like an used product..

You really have to do some trouble to damage the rad like this.. So someone was really taking effort for this..
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post #7087 of 20809
Quote:
Originally Posted by Playerxl View Post

Did you check if this product was used before you opened it (packaging)? It seems like an used product..

You really have to do some trouble to damage the rad like this.. So someone was really taking effort for this..

It was not used. I could see this from the block itself but the box was not sealed as well.
post #7088 of 20809
wow all those troubles with swiftech products...
i have my apogee drive 2 couple week old...suddenly the pump (mcp 35x) stop spinning, i have to reboot, and sometime it doesnt even start, i have to shut down the pc and start it 5, 10 times (when it doesnt start i hear some rattle out of it, probably going to die in a day?) to have the pump on, and there is no air and the loop is very well built with top notch components....
really, now i don't know if i have to send it back to amazon france (very f4k expensive) or just get another pump of another brand (and loose warranty) i start to not trust this company anymore..
im leaning being sad now , spent over 400 euros to put liquid all over cpu/gpu and i have to stop everything...ahhh
post #7089 of 20809
Quote:
Originally Posted by fifty View Post

wow all those troubles with swiftech products...
i have my apogee drive 2 couple week old...suddenly the pump (mcp 35x) stop spinning, i have to reboot, and sometime it doesnt even start, i have to shut down the pc and start it 5, 10 times (when it doesnt start i hear some rattle out of it, probably going to die in a day?) to have the pump on, and there is no air and the loop is very well built with top notch components....
really, now i don't know if i have to send it back to amazon france (very f4k expensive) or just get another pump of another brand (and loose warranty) i start to not trust this company anymore..
im leaning being sad now , spent over 400 euros to put liquid all over cpu/gpu and i have to stop everything...ahhh

That's really bad news! I've ordered the H320 so I hope everything will be fine.. I'll certainly keep y'all posted!
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Crucial Ballistix Sport 16GB (4 x 4GB) SAMSUNG SSD 840 pro 128 GB Seagate HDD 1 TB Seagate HDD 500 GB 
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Swiftech H320 (Sandwiched!) Windows 7 64 Bit Samsung 40" Led TV (UE40D5000) OCZ Stealth Stream 700 W 
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Game Rig
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CPUMotherboardGraphicsGraphics
INTEL I7 4770K ASUS Maximus VI Hero MSI GTX 670 OC (N670GTX-PM2D2GD5/OC) With EK Wa... ASUS GTX 670 With EK Waterblock + backplate 
RAMHard DriveHard DriveHard Drive
Crucial Ballistix Sport 16GB (4 x 4GB) SAMSUNG SSD 840 pro 128 GB Seagate HDD 1 TB Seagate HDD 500 GB 
CoolingOSMonitorPower
Swiftech H320 (Sandwiched!) Windows 7 64 Bit Samsung 40" Led TV (UE40D5000) OCZ Stealth Stream 700 W 
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post #7090 of 20809
Putting pc together now and I had to install the rad with the tubes end at the back of the case. Because of this the tubes are too long to install the pump normally but upside down would work. Can I install the pump upside down with the swiftech logo on the upper left and be fine? Any difference doing it this way?

Cheers. (Sent from phone tongue.gif)
    
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WD Black 1TB Seagate Barracuda 2TB (SSD) Samsung 840 Pro 256GB Swiftech H320 
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Win 7 64 Ultimate ASUS VG248QE @ 120Hz Corsair HX-650 NZXT Switch 810 
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CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
i5 4670K @ 4.3GHz (1.25V) ASUS Z87-PLUS Gigabyte GTX 680 SOC Corsair Vengeance Pro 2133 (2x4GB) 
Hard DriveHard DriveHard DriveCooling
WD Black 1TB Seagate Barracuda 2TB (SSD) Samsung 840 Pro 256GB Swiftech H320 
OSMonitorPowerCase
Win 7 64 Ultimate ASUS VG248QE @ 120Hz Corsair HX-650 NZXT Switch 810 
MouseAudioAudioAudio
Razer Deathadder 3500cpi Auzentech X-Fi Forte Audio Technica ATH-AD900 Alessandro MS-Pro 
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