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Swiftech H220/H320/H220X/H240X/H140X and CM Glacer 240L/360L Owners' Club - Page 74

post #731 of 20767
Quote:
Originally Posted by CTM Audi View Post

I have an RMA question. The only thing I really need to RMA is the pump/block, but a whole new kit was sent.
I already used a foam gasket on my current rad (and it cant be reused), which also doesnt have any bent fins. Id like to keep that rad, and just swap the pump/block when I do the expansion. Can I do that for the RMA, just swap that part (and refill it obviously), or do I have to replace all of it?

I'm going to have Gabe or Stephen answer this. I'm really not in a position to answer that question. You'll get a response shortly.
post #732 of 20767
Quote:
Originally Posted by CTM Audi View Post

I have an RMA question. The only thing I really need to RMA is the pump/block, but a whole new kit was sent.
I already used a foam gasket on my current rad (and it cant be reused), which also doesnt have any bent fins. Id like to keep that rad, and just swap the pump/block when I do the expansion. Can I do that for the RMA, just swap that part (and refill it obviously), or do I have to replace all of it?

Gabe says that's fine. Just send us back the pump/block unit with the new radiator attached.
Edited by BramSLI1 - 3/20/13 at 4:07pm
post #733 of 20767
Quote:
Originally Posted by BramSLI1 View Post

If you're using our splitter, do you have the pump plugged into channel one? This could be the cause of the problem you're having. Also make sure that the PWM connector is seated properly on the PWM header. This is a common problem particularly if you're trying to get to it at a difficult angle. I've actually done this myself. I found that the pump wasn't running properly and this was due to not having the connector plugged into the header properly on our splitter.

I tried using the pump with the splitter in channel one and got some interesting results. The RPM readout showed a steady 3500rpm and the tone given off by the pump remained the same, regardless of the fan speed settings. However, the fan's speeds did change. So that is a bit weird. Any ideas? I also tried using the pump without any fans running. When changing the speed of the fan port, there was no audible change coming from the pump. I'm assuming it just isn't responding and is running at full. It actually isn't that loud, but it is annoying that I can't get it to slow down.

When the PWM fans are plugged into the 1st port on the splitter, it does show their correct RPM.
Edited by gjbquist - 3/20/13 at 4:16pm
post #734 of 20767
Quote:
Originally Posted by gjbquist View Post

I tried using the pump with the splitter in channel one and got some interesting results. The RPM readout showed a steady 3500rpm and the tone given off by the pump remained the same, regardless of the fan speed settings. However, the fan's speeds did change. So that is a bit weird. Any ideas? I also tried using the pump without any fans running. When changing the speed of the fan port, there was no audible change coming from the pump. I'm assuming it just isn't responding and is running at full. It actually isn't that loud, but it is annoying that I can't get it to slow down.

When the PWM fans are plugged into the 1st port on the splitter, it does show their correct RPM.

If you've tried plugging the pump into the motherboard headers directly and you're getting the same problem, this sounds like there might be an issue with the connection or the electronics. I'll look into this and keep you posted.
post #735 of 20767
gjbquist,

In talking with Stephen, if you can't adjust the speed of the pump, even if you have it plugged directly into the motherboard, then there is something wrong with it and we'll have to RMA it. Let me know if this is the case.
post #736 of 20767
Quote:
Originally Posted by BramSLI1 View Post

gjbquist,

In talking with Stephen, if you can't adjust the speed of the pump, even if you have it plugged directly into the motherboard, then there is something wrong with it and we'll have to RMA it. Let me know if this is the case.

I was hoping you would have some magical solution, other than that. LOL

I tried plugging it directly into the motherboard first. It is pretty clear that it is not responding to the PWM signal.

So I guess I need an RMA. Can you guys ship a replacement that I can swap it with?
post #737 of 20767
Quote:
Originally Posted by gjbquist View Post

Yep. As I mentioned I tested using the PWM splitter that comes with the H220. I have 4 fans attached to it. I'm able to adjust the speed of the fans in the bios and with fan utilities. Both 4 pin ports on the motherboard work just fine. Except when I plug the H220 pump into them. In either port, the pump runs at 100%, regardless of bios or software settings. (I'm using 4 Helix Swiftech PWM fans.)

Check the PWM connector wire (blue). Sounds like it is not getting contact or something with the pump. I purposely pulled out the blue wire from the connector to test full speed all the time. Seems odd that you are seeing "3500" rpm, so perhaps the green and blue wires are reversed? maybe not but easy enough to accidentally happen. The outer most wire should be the blue one coming from the pump. Green is the same as yellow on the fans and for reading rpm.

Could just be the pump, but 3500 seems high. Max speed I could get was just under 3000.
    
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post #738 of 20767
Quote:
Originally Posted by Thrasher1016 View Post



On the coolant:

From what I understand (someone correct me if I'm not) the reason for distilled water + colored tubing is that IF a leak happens, there's much less of a chance of damage via the fluid.
I know EK states that their fluid is non-conductive UNTIL it comes in contact with other liquids or dust of any kind (read: airborne contamination of any kind), so that means that in a leak-caused spill, the little dust you do have (which is all ionized) will cause the fluid that WAS non-conductive to freely pass a charge.
I was going to go clear tubing + EK green fluid, but I'm swapping for the opposite...
I'm too much of a worry wart for that. biggrin.gif

Thanks - T

No fluid is non-conductive once it comes in contact with the metals in a loop. If you leak regardless of the fluid it can cause damage.
Basically don't worry about the conductive vs non, none are safer than others. Best you can do is use good barbs and clamps and do thorough leak testing.

The benefits to distilled + biocide is low maintence. i have personally run distilled loops for two+ years without any need to change tubing or fluids. UV tubing will hold it's color for a very long time and still look new with water. UV dyes and coolants will loose their vibrance fairly shortly. Anywhere from 3 weeks to 3 months is about as long as they look fresh. They also dye tubing and blocks etc so it usually requires replacing the tubing when you flush. Dye blockage is more a scapegoat than real, tubing plasticizer and radiator flux is much more likely to cause blockage, but naturally when dyed a color of the color of the fluid, the fluid gets the blame. Depends on the dye and coolant too, some better than others. I would suggest UV colored tubing myselfband avoid the high maintence of dyes, but either can work fine.
    
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post #739 of 20767
Are you certain that you're plugging into a PWM header? As I discovered, not all four pin headers are PWM enabled. It may be that the fans are being voltage regulated and maybe that doesn't work for the pump?
post #740 of 20767
Quote:
Originally Posted by Martinm210 View Post

Check the PWM connector wire (blue). Sounds like it is not getting contact or something with the pump. I purposely pulled out the blue wire from the connector to test full speed all the time. Seems odd that you are seeing "3500" rpm, so perhaps the green and blue wires are reversed? maybe not but easy enough to accidentally happen. The outer most wire should be the blue one coming from the pump. Green is the same as yellow on the fans and for reading rpm.

Could just be the pump, but 3500 seems high. Max speed I could get was just under 3000.

Thank you chiming in. The 3500 is a round number. It seems to change slightly plus or minus 10rpm. But yes it is in that range. (At least that is what is being displayed.) It seems like it should be louder, but I can at least tell that its speed is not changing. CPU temp is around 27c at idle.

I thought the blue and green wires might be reversed as well, but I didn't want to tear anything apart without Swiftechs' ok. I'm going to take another close look at it though.

Edit: It looks like the wires are correctly positioned and making contact. I suspect there is a crack in the blue wire somewhere. I looked at the reported speeds in bios and it ranges from 3440-3490 or so. If it weren't under warranty I'd tear more into it, but I'd rather just get it replaced.

(AdamMT - thanks, yes I am using a PWM header. I verified the header works with PWM fans. It is just the pump that isn't responding properly.)
Edited by gjbquist - 3/20/13 at 5:34pm
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