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Swiftech H220/H320/H220X/H240X/H140X and CM Glacer 240L/360L Owners' Club - Page 778

post #7771 of 20719
marc0053 my suggestion is to take the loop a part and start over. Come up with an plan to declutter the loop and make it more efficient to run between rads.
Also you may want to run the pump at full speed to push through all these rads.
    
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post #7772 of 20719
The pump on my h220 has started making a clicking sound (bought it new 2 months ago).

Is this normal? Or should I be worried.

Thanks
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post #7773 of 20719
I would be worried, but that's just me. Though i would guess it depends on how loud we're talking? I know i haven't had mine but a couple of days but if you look at Martin's video of the h220 pump noise, my second video of the glacer, and then the videos on the messed up 220s there is a pretty big difference.I assume that mine sounds correct. Also compared it to pumps not on blocks like a full loop and seems pretty spot on.
If it sounds like this i wouldn't fill comfortable i assume that is the dreaded air bubble, but i think you can bleed it.
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post #7774 of 20719
So I've flushed my H220. Haven't installed it in my case/on my cpu yet cause I haven't got these air bubbles out. Pretty annoying hearing water. Don't want to take the cooler off I have now until they're gone. Any tips for removing air bubbles? So far I've tried everything in the OP from gently shaking the rad. Angling it front to back, side to side. Squeezing the barbs on both sides of the pump. Letting it run with the fill port open. Been trying for a while now with no success.
post #7775 of 20719
It made no discernable sound up until yesterday. I find that when it ramps up, the sound planes out, only at idle do i hear a faint clicking. My case is up on my desk so its pretty close. Performance is not impacted at all. I must wonder why all of a sudden it started.
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post #7776 of 20719
Quote:
Originally Posted by Robilar View Post

It made no discernable sound up until yesterday. I find that when it ramps up, the sound planes out, only at idle do i hear a faint clicking. My case is up on my desk so its pretty close. Performance is not impacted at all. I must wonder why all of a sudden it started.

I had pretty much the same problem. When I got my H220, installed it. Everything went great, couple months go by and I begin to hear water. Didn't seem to change my temps so I just lived with it. Got a little louder a few months later then my temps began to get higher and higher until I couldn't use the cooler anymore. If you look back in this thread a couple pages you'll see the particles I found in my stock H220. So I flushed out the loop and refilled it, now I'm working on getting these air bubbles out. So far no luck.

Bram said it shouldn't affect the pump
Quote:
Originally Posted by BramSLI1 View Post

I think the particles that you found in the coolant are likely from plasticizer. It's common with any type of flexible tubing of this kind. It also shouldn't have any harmful effects on the pump though. It would have to in a really high concentration to have any adverse effects on this pump.

Edited by bvsbutthd101 - 11/19/13 at 7:05am
post #7777 of 20719
You know...

The problems with air trapped inside the pump is not something new. I got whole new pump from Swiftech (great service and support) and it solved the problem for now. Old one had problems with air and probably ceramic shaft was broken

According to my experiences with H320, the best way to remove air from the loop is to open whole pump (copper block, get to impeller etc) and wash everything very well. Next put pump upside down and fill by water (before putting the tubes). Whole filling up the loop I was making when pump was upside down so air could get trap above impeller. Few hours later after shaking, moving pump You will remove most of the air. After installing is the best to run pump for many hours in 100% pwm speed. In the clear pipes everyone will be able to see very small air bubbles. After 24 hours of such a run the pump will remove all air.

Actually Swiftech should make something like with MCP35X. It will be great when we will be able to change the copper block for normal housing.

Something like this:


Then we will be able to make more custom loops without changing (not so cheap on the end) pump. It will be great profit.
+Pump will be still in use
+less vibrations which are amplified by socket (on the high speed of the pump)
+better flexibility of design
+saving a lot of money
+and the biggest advantage - better way to fill up the loop, removing air and placing a res.
+people will stay with Swiftech and let company earn more.

Really. Swiftech should make such a option because the biggest advantage of H220/320 is the biggest problem in later use. It's waste to put to "garbage" such a pump when it can work still in different location. Removing the pump every time when we are making any changes in the loop is waste of the time, thermal compound and it's dangerous for socket and GPU card.

It will be great if some one buying on the beginning the H220/320 and next, step by step he want to add new parts to the loop. Now it's quite difficult especially when someone want to put a VRM block. Tube will be short, so removing air form pump It will be extremely difficult.

I don't know how other people but for new housing which will transform a H220/320 in stand alone pump I can pay even 30+$ because I will save, on the end, lots of money if I need to buy new pump (d5 or ddc).

I was even thinking to check the ddc top but I'm quite sure now that I will not be match. Please Swiftech make something like this. Then H220/320 will be really big deal for making true custom loop. Everything what You need to do is redesign a inlet (put on the top) and outlet for G1/4 thread standard, in existing solution.
post #7778 of 20719
Quote:
Originally Posted by BramSLI1 View Post

if one of the nuts on the back plate has become stripped

Bram I have a question if you will. If two of the nuts on one side of my backplate (no innuendo) don't sit inside the groove (still not any innuendo) of the backplate (the hexagonal edges sit on top of the edges of the backplate), could it create a poor mount and contribute to higher temps? I initially assumed it wouldn't as the screws would still be screwing (NO INNUENDO) in (NONE) as far as they could go (OH DEAR GOD), but I've been experiencing higher temps than expected (nothing crazy though, might just have a bad IHS/chip), and a 10C difference between hottest/coolest core at load, which I'm told can be normal too. I've taken pics of the difference:




But if they did happen to move/lock into place, then the screws would need to turn more to get back to the same pressure.
Quote:
Originally Posted by marc0053 View Post

I have the pump plugged in the cpu PWN header so I would assume it goes full speed on load? if so, I would imagine that cpu temperatures would be similar as if I manually set the pump to max speed. I should probably try it to see if there is any changes.

So you've never actually monitored the pump speed (in a program like "hwinfo") while it's under stress? Probably a good idea, to make sure it's ramping up. In my mobo BIOS I had to set a few settings to choose when it ramps up the speed and to what % of max RPM it runs at when at full ball. In mine I set it so that when CPU temps are >70C it runs at 90% pump (and therefore fan speed too, as I'm using the provided splitter for them as well) speed.

Thinking about this, (and how pump RPM doesn't matter over ~1800 with just a CPU in the loop - this is right for H320 too yes?) it would be good if I could leave the pump at ~2000RPM but have the fans ramp up to 100% (1800RPM?) when >70C. Maybe leave the fans on the splitter plugged into CPU_FAN, but somehow control the pump with PWM manually. Just did a google and found this: http://www.swiftech.com/pwmcontrollers.aspx. So there are PWM compatible fan controllers... can't see available at my local AU store though. Ah bugger it. Maybe I'll just let the pump ramp up, it has to be able to work at that speed as well, good for testing it early as I intend to eventually expand the loop.
Quote:
Originally Posted by guinner16 View Post

Well my H220 bit the dust last night while playing a game. I went from a120FPS to 2 FPS in about 10 seconds. I checked and sure enough the pump wasn't running.

This FPS problem (for me from ~300fps to ~2fps in L4D2, lasting for ~5-10 seconds) has happened to me a few (3?) times when gaming online (it was only affecting me not others, so not server). I've never seen it happen before, only since using the H320. But I didn't think to check pump speeds while it was happening. I will monitor them in the background from now, in case it is stopping/failing.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Robilar View Post

The pump on my h220 has started making a clicking sound (bought it new 2 months ago).

Mine now seems to have a faint buzz to it... no clicking or water yet fortunately.
Quote:
Originally Posted by bvsbutthd101 View Post

Blam said it shouldn't affect the pump

Lol 'blam'.
Edited by crabula - 11/19/13 at 1:14am
    
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post #7779 of 20719
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lord Nikkon View Post

You know...

The problems with air trapped inside the pump is not something new. I got whole new pump from Swiftech (great service and support) and it solved the problem for now. Old one had problems with air and probably ceramic shaft was broken

According to my experiences with H320, the best way to remove air from the loop is to open whole pump (copper block, get to impeller etc) and wash everything very well. Next put pump upside down and fill by water (before putting the tubes). Whole filling up the loop I was making when pump was upside down so air could get trap above impeller. Few hours later after shaking, moving pump You will remove most of the air. After installing is the best to run pump for many hours in 100% pwm speed. In the clear pipes everyone will be able to see very small air bubbles. After 24 hours of such a run the pump will remove all air.

Actually Swiftech should make something like with MCP35X. It will be great when we will be able to change the copper block for normal housing.

Something like this:


Then we will be able to make more custom loops without changing (not so cheap on the end) pump. It will be great profit.
+Pump will be still in use
+less vibrations which are amplified by socket (on the high speed of the pump)
+better flexibility of design
+saving a lot of money
+and the biggest advantage - better way to fill up the loop, removing air and placing a res.
+people will stay with Swiftech and let company earn more.

Really. Swiftech should make such a option because the biggest advantage of H220/320 is the biggest problem in later use. It's waste to put to "garbage" such a pump when it can work still in different location. Removing the pump every time when we are making any changes in the loop is waste of the time, thermal compound and it's dangerous for socket and GPU card.

It will be great if some one buying on the beginning the H220/320 and next, step by step he want to add new parts to the loop. Now it's quite difficult especially when someone want to put a VRM block. Tube will be short, so removing air form pump It will be extremely difficult.

I don't know how other people but for new housing which will transform a H220/320 in stand alone pump I can pay even 30+$ because I will save, on the end, lots of money if I need to buy new pump (d5 or ddc).

I was even thinking to check the ddc top but I'm quite sure now that I will not be match. Please Swiftech make something like this. Then H220/320 will be really big deal for making true custom loop. Everything what You need to do is redesign a inlet (put on the top) and outlet for G1/4 thread standard, in existing solution.

Maybe that explains why i hear a gurgling noise every time the pump runs full speed on cpu load
  
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post #7780 of 20719
Quote:
Originally Posted by marc0053 View Post

Maybe that explains why i hear a gurgling noise every time the pump runs full speed on cpu load

It's two places where air can be trapped:

1. On the back of impeller, close to the top of the pump - solution - before connecting to the loop u should put pump upside down change position of the burbs and fill up both of the burbs by water. Next little move the pump to put water on the bottom of impeller. Then still keeping pump upside down connect the tubes and fill up the intake tube by water (try to remove all air form tube). Next when u have a water don't start the pump. Shake it, move in different directions (still keeping upside down) to remove as much air as u can. You will see it - huge air bubbles will go on the both sides of pump (inlet and outlet). Then u will be unable to remove more air start pump for half minute and stop (for 99% you will hear the air trapped inside pump). Again move pump and shake it (still keeping upside down) quite strong and u will see small air bubbles which will go from outlet tube. You must repeat it many times and never put pump on in another position than upside down (swiftech logo on the bottom water block on the top). Better is to have air trapped near water block than on the back of impeller. Trust me - it's the best way.

Next when you will remove most of the air by shaking the pump (quite strong if I need to be honest) leave it, connected to the power supply for few hours (still outside the socket and upside down). In outlet pipe you will be able to see really tiny baubles run very fast and pump will get less noise. Sometimes You can switch off power wait around 15 min and again shake it. Never shake it during the running. Ceramic shaft and slave bearing really don't like such a "actions" during working. In my case removing most of the air in this way took around 8 hours. After this You should to put pump to the socket and run it for next few hours on 100% PWM speed. It will remove all air.

For me it works.

2. Sometimes inside a pump stuck some garbage like a tarnish which works like a glue for air. It's good to buy IPA and clean whole pump very very well.

Honestly I can't agree with Bram (I respect him like hell) that air will not cause damage. Mine first pump was quiet but after rebuild of the loop it got be loudly and after that it stay like this till today. Air for such a device means slow death. We don't know where exactly air stacks if on the top of impeller - no problem but if it will stuck near ceramic shaft it will cause huge problems because this kind of pumps use water as a grease.

In my opinion H220/320 pump isn't bad, it's just need more time for removing air and the can't make it in all positions. That's why I believe that the best position for this pump is upside down orientation during filling up whole loop and that's why I'm planning to use pump outside a socket and change (redesign) a water block section, to make it more looking like a MCP pump. Water flow should be bigger and it should solve permanently problem with air, which can stuck in one (or both) of two chambers (impeller or waterblock). Mine project will be very simple because I don't have access to Switech's blueprints but it should work.
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