Overclock.net › Forums › Cooling › Water Cooling › Swiftech H220/H320/H220X/H240X/H140X and CM Glacer 240L/360L Owners' Club
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:

Swiftech H220/H320/H220X/H240X/H140X and CM Glacer 240L/360L Owners' Club - Page 779

post #7781 of 20728
Quote:
Originally Posted by crabula View Post


This FPS problem (for me from ~300fps to ~2fps in L4D2, lasting for ~5-10 seconds) has happened to me a few (3?) times when gaming online (it was only affecting me not others, so not server). I've never seen it happen before, only since using the H320. But I didn't think to check pump speeds while it was happening. I will monitor them in the background from now, in case it is stopping/failing.

Mine never recovered though. It was instant 105 temps, which is why i shut down right away. I then waited for the block to cool and tried to startup. Got a CPU fan header error, and warning that temps were too high to boot. I put in the stock cooler and everything worked perfectly. My pump just went from working to dead in 10 seconds.

I worked with Bryan yesterday for the RMA, and so far customer service has been great. I will put an update on here once I get everything back up and running.
post #7782 of 20728
Man I hope my Glacer 240l never has those sort of issues...or at least I can easily fix it by draining and bleeding the loop. It would be a pain to ship my stuff to the US and be without a cooler while waiting for an RMA. (hopefully local CM can give me support)
post #7783 of 20728
Can anyone confirm if the Glacer 240l will fit in an original Fractal Arc Midi case?
post #7784 of 20728
I'm pretty sure it will but can't confirm via first hand experience...
post #7785 of 20728
Quote:
Originally Posted by ivanlabrie View Post

I'm pretty sure it will but can't confirm via first hand experience...

^This, finding it hard to find a review that removes top dust cover, looks like exact same layout up top as the R2 (tight fit btw, the barbs will be in the optical bay a bit if you use the offset 120mm holes, I took the cage out)

Nevermind found this:
Kaga (WIP)
(22 items)
 
   
GraphicsRAMMonitorPower
1080Ti x2 32GB Corsair Dominator Platinum 2666 (64GB Total) Acer Predator X34P or Equivalent Seasonic Snow Silent - 1050w 
OtherOtherOther
Custom Acrylic Engraving Straight 8 Pin cables + Cable Combs 3x EK-Vardar F2, 2x Replacement Front 140mm 
  hide details  
Reply
Kaga (WIP)
(22 items)
 
   
GraphicsRAMMonitorPower
1080Ti x2 32GB Corsair Dominator Platinum 2666 (64GB Total) Acer Predator X34P or Equivalent Seasonic Snow Silent - 1050w 
OtherOtherOther
Custom Acrylic Engraving Straight 8 Pin cables + Cable Combs 3x EK-Vardar F2, 2x Replacement Front 140mm 
  hide details  
Reply
post #7786 of 20728
Quote:
Originally Posted by crabula View Post

Bram I have a question if you will. If two of the nuts on one side of my backplate (no innuendo) don't sit inside the groove (still not any innuendo) of the backplate (the hexagonal edges sit on top of the edges of the backplate), could it create a poor mount and contribute to higher temps? I initially assumed it wouldn't as the screws would still be screwing (NO INNUENDO) in (NONE) as far as they could go (OH DEAR GOD), but I've been experiencing higher temps than expected (nothing crazy though, might just have a bad IHS/chip), and a 10C difference between hottest/coolest core at load, which I'm told can be normal too. I've taken pics of the difference:




But if they did happen to move/lock into place, then the screws would need to turn more to get back to the same pressure.

Yes, this could cause the issues you're having with temperatures. This is simply because without having the hexagonal nuts in place this can cause shifting of the block which would in turn cause your TIM joint to unseat. I'm not saying that this is definitely your issue, but it certainly could be.
post #7787 of 20728
I really can't get these air bubbles to go away. mad.gif Left my H220 running all night hoping they'd go away. Currently running it with the fill port open.
post #7788 of 20728
Quote:
Originally Posted by bvsbutthd101 View Post

I really can't get these air bubbles to go away. mad.gif Left my H220 running all night hoping they'd go away. Currently running it with the fill port open.

Have you tried kinking the tubing going from the out port barb on the pump? You just need to kink if for a few seconds to a minute and then release it. This helps to put some pressure within the pump and then when you release it the bubbles should come out with it and get your pump to quiet down. Let me know if that resolves your issue.
post #7789 of 20728
Quote:
Originally Posted by BramSLI1 View Post

Have you tried kinking the tubing going from the out port barb on the pump? You just need to kink if for a few seconds to a minute and then release it. This helps to put some pressure within the pump and then when you release it the bubbles should come out with it and get your pump to quiet down. Let me know if that resolves your issue.

Just tried that, didn't make a difference.
post #7790 of 20728
Quote:
Originally Posted by bvsbutthd101 View Post

Just tried that, didn't make a difference.

Can you post a recording of what it currently sounds like at full speed? This will help me to determine what the issue might be.
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:
  Return Home
  Back to Forum: Water Cooling
Overclock.net › Forums › Cooling › Water Cooling › Swiftech H220/H320/H220X/H240X/H140X and CM Glacer 240L/360L Owners' Club