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Swiftech H220/H320/H220X/H240X/H140X and CM Glacer 240L/360L Owners' Club - Page 84

post #831 of 20767
Quote:
Originally Posted by xarot View Post

Hi, maybe it's best to report here since many people seem to have been wondering what happened.

I troubleshooted this a bit with BramSLI1 and appreciate his kind help on this. Rare to see this kind of private customer service these days. thumb.gif I always like to troubleshoot the best I can myself before taking any final conclusions, I've worked in RMA dept myself for nearly 4 years in the past. smile.gif

Now I have tried to connect the pump directly into the MB and also through the bundled panel with and without the cpu fan header connection but the situation seems to be always the same: the pump works from a cold start for a while and then it goes to 0 rpm, goes back on for a while and then nothing, my computer shuts down due to thermal shutdown. I believe I have now ruled out the fan headers, and I don't see much left to do. I will do an RMA through my retailer in Finland, that's just how things work around here, unless they tell me otherwise.

Hi There, please directly contact rma@bacata.net , (please cc to help@swiftech.com so we can stay in the loop) - bacata in France is our support center for Europe, and they are dedicated to provide European customers the same superior quality support as we are in the US :-)
post #832 of 20767
Thanks for the advice Gabe. smile.gif
post #833 of 20767
Quote:
Originally Posted by AdamMT View Post

You know ... it's a lot easier if you do the fill before you mount the system in your case! cigar.gif
Maybe a small loop if you dont care how long the tubing is. With GPU and another rad added, no way that was going to happen with short tubing lengths.

Im wondering if the MCW-80 caused it to be hard to bleed. Since its such a restrictive block, and its right after the pump/block. I can feel the out tube from the pump vibrate, but feel nothing from the out tube of the MCW-80.


Some pics, still working on it though.

GTX-670


Lots of flakes in the liquid after draining. Used a paper towel to filter it.


Disassembled


Tubed up



Top


Cut for filling


Tube for filling, with a funnel


From the front bays
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post #834 of 20767
Quote:
Originally Posted by MadGoat View Post

IMHO, I like this Tim Mate 2 better. I have been a MX-4 fan for a very long time and this product has me sold. Its more "spreadable" than MX but not runny.

I would say use it. Be aware that I saw a 2c drop after ~ 4hrs of heat from the proc. It has a small cure time.

Thanks for the reply, I will try it out. Also been using Mx2 and MX4 for ages.
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post #835 of 20767
Quote:
Originally Posted by CTM Audi View Post

Maybe a small loop if you dont care how long the tubing is. With GPU and another rad added, no way that was going to happen with short tubing lengths.

Im wondering if the MCW-80 caused it to be hard to bleed. Since its such a restrictive block, and its right after the pump/block. I can feel the out tube from the pump vibrate, but feel nothing from the out tube of the MCW-80.


Some pics, still working on it though.

GTX-670


Tubed up





The reason why you had SO MUCH difficulty filling and bleeding the system is very simple: you are going from radiator to OUTLET of the waterblock instead of INLET :-(

So you had to fill everything else before the pump could actually be able to start priming. Watch our video again here:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0fpum4J6C2k&feature=player_embedded starting at 2mn20.

Bryan clearly explains what and what NOT to do.

Had you connected the line from the radiator to the inlet of the pump as we recommend, and you would have been able to use the pump to fill-up the loop. Don't feel too bad though it happens. It works, but its an absolute pain to bleed that way. Let it be a lesson for readers: always link up the rad directly to the CPU block inlet to facilitate fill and bleed!

COMMENTS REMOVED - SEE BELOW
Edited by gabe@swiftech - 3/23/13 at 5:08pm
post #836 of 20767
All done,













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post #837 of 20767
Quote:
Originally Posted by gabe@swiftech View Post

The reason why you had SO MUCH difficulty filling and bleeding the system is very simple: you are going from radiator to OUTLET of the waterblock instead of INLET :-(

So you had to fill everything else before the pump could actually be able to start priming. Watch our video again here:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0fpum4J6C2k&feature=player_embedded starting at 2mn20.

Bryan clearly explains what and what NOT to do.

Had you connected the line from the radiator to the inlet of the pump as we recommend, and you would have been able to use the pump to fill-up the loop. Don't feel too bad though it happens. It works, but its an absolute pain to bleed that way. Let it be a lesson for readers: always link up the rad directly to the CPU block inlet to facilitate fill and bleed!

Actually, it is going to the inlet. I flipped the pump and the top cover, and its definitely going to the in port.
You can see the wire from the pump is coming out of the bottom now, putting the IN on the right hand side.
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post #838 of 20767
Quote:
Originally Posted by CTM Audi View Post

Actually, it is going to the inlet. I flipped the pump and the top cover, and its definitely going to the in port.
You can see the wire from the pump is coming out of the bottom now, putting the IN on the right hand side.

I see, trying to trick me heh ? thumb.gif

Comments removed then :-)

So if I understand well, you had no issue filling-up the system turning the pump on and off to push the coolant thru the loop, but then you had difficulties actually bleeding from whatever air was inside, right ?
post #839 of 20767
Hey, if you don't mind, would you care to share some VRM temps? I wanted to do the same thing with a MSI TF3 7950 and wondered if that stock black heat spreader plate would be enough to keep them cool biggrin.gif
post #840 of 20767
Quote:
Originally Posted by gabe@swiftech View Post

I see, trying to trick me heh ? thumb.gif

Comments removed then :-)

So if I understand well, you had no issue filling-up the system turning the pump on and off to push the coolant thru the loop, but then you had difficulties actually bleeding from whatever air was inside, right ?
The problem I was having, is the pump was spinning, and water was in the pump and tubes before and after it. But the giant air bubbles would get stuck in those tubes and not move.

I later found laying it down somewhat helped. And flipping the case upside down and all around fallowing the tubing worked, but took forever (keeping the next path of tubing in a vertical position so the air would just "rise" up to the res). I started around midnight tubing up the whole kit, and around 1:30 started filling. By 5AM, I was just really tired and annoyed.


Im pretty sure its the MCW-80. As I sit here, there is a little bubble bouncing around right before the inlet of the MCW-80. The pump is trying to push it through, but the flow coming out of the MCW-80 is much slower. So I have to keep flicking the tube where the bubble is to get it to go through. Plus the fact air likes to rise, and its going downward isnt helping. Once it is through the MCW-80, it has no trouble going down to the front rad, then up to the top one.
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