Overclock.net › Forums › Cooling › Water Cooling › Swiftech H220/H320/H220X/H240X/H140X and CM Glacer 240L/360L Owners' Club
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:

Swiftech H220/H320/H220X/H240X/H140X and CM Glacer 240L/360L Owners' Club - Page 883

post #8821 of 20721
Quote:
Originally Posted by TheChankWhoGank View Post

Hi guys its been a while since I have posted anything. Recently I returned my H220 and got it replaced with another one and this one WAS dead silent no pump noise, but now its starting to make ticking noise which is different from the other one. Can this noise be resolved ? I have the youtube link here http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nj7ySi24rRQ , If anyone can help me much appreciated, I just hope I don't have to end up wasting my time again and again returning this pump, just want the plug and play.

I am not sure I agree with you on that link.
Gaming
(17 items)
 
  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsGraphics
Intel 3500k @ 4.6 1.25v Z77A-GD65 (MS-7751) Asus GTX 770 SLI Asus GTX 770 
RAMHard DriveHard DriveOptical Drive
Corsair Vengeance DDR3 1600 Samsung 840 Sandisk Ultra Plus Pioneer DVD 
CoolingOSMonitorPower
Cooler Master 212 EVO Windows Ultimate 64 Qnix QX2710 Cooler Master V700 
CaseMouseMouse PadAudio
NZXT Phantom 630 Razor Deathadder Roccat Taito Asus Xonar DSX 
Other
Logitech Z5300E 
  hide details  
Reply
Gaming
(17 items)
 
  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsGraphics
Intel 3500k @ 4.6 1.25v Z77A-GD65 (MS-7751) Asus GTX 770 SLI Asus GTX 770 
RAMHard DriveHard DriveOptical Drive
Corsair Vengeance DDR3 1600 Samsung 840 Sandisk Ultra Plus Pioneer DVD 
CoolingOSMonitorPower
Cooler Master 212 EVO Windows Ultimate 64 Qnix QX2710 Cooler Master V700 
CaseMouseMouse PadAudio
NZXT Phantom 630 Razor Deathadder Roccat Taito Asus Xonar DSX 
Other
Logitech Z5300E 
  hide details  
Reply
post #8822 of 20721
Quote:
Originally Posted by Watagump View Post

I am not sure I agree with you on that link.

Well that is awkward my bad, t his is the one i menat to put up http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-H1bPxx1poY
post #8823 of 20721
I'm having some trouble with my h220 on a 4930k. It goes up to 90 degrees after 2-3 minutes. (at 4500mhz 1,4v)
The pump is running at 100% at the time. I have the pump alone on the cpu fan plug and the 2 radiator fans on the 8fan switch on the alt cpu fan plug.
Anyway, I thought it was the thermal paste, and maybe it was:
20140118_092548.jpg
20140118_092600.jpg

...so I reapplied it like this with IC Diamond:
20140118_093536.jpg

Same problem. I hear the pump running, sounding loud at 100% speed, fans are running. But as I start the burn test, it jumps 40 degrees in a second, and after 2 minutes it jumps from around 70 to 90in some seconds (this might be the update lag, don't trust me 100% on this)

Am i doing something wrong?
post #8824 of 20721
Quote:
Originally Posted by reppel View Post

I'm having some trouble with my h220 on a 4930k. It goes up to 90 degrees after 2-3 minutes. (at 4500mhz 1,4v)
The pump is running at 100% at the time. I have the pump alone on the cpu fan plug and the 2 radiator fans on the 8fan switch on the alt cpu fan plug.
Anyway, I thought it was the thermal paste, and maybe it was:
20140118_092548.jpg
20140118_092600.jpg

...so I reapplied it like this with IC Diamond:
20140118_093536.jpg

Same problem. I hear the pump running, sounding loud at 100% speed, fans are running. But as I start the burn test, it jumps 40 degrees in a second, and after 2 minutes it jumps from around 70 to 90in some seconds (this might be the update lag, don't trust me 100% on this)

Am i doing something wrong?

1. Make line method or spread the pasta on all CPU's IHS for applying thermal solution
2. You must put more compound than LGA1150 CPU
3. Screw the block in cross pattern!

Than it will be fine
post #8825 of 20721
Don't spread the paste you'll have air pockets galore. The tried and true method is pea size in the middle. The seating of your waterblock could be the issue but I highly doubt it. 1.4v with no IHS mod 90 degrees sounds about right. My guess is the thermal glue that your chip got was globbed uneven or too much causing the IHS to not make great contact with the cpu. Either lower the voltage or do the IHS mod. Sorry frown.gif
The Traitor
(12 items)
 
  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
Intel Core i5 3570K Z77A-GD65 (MS-7751) Gigabyte GeForce GTX 670 Samsung 8GB Low Voltage 
Hard DriveCoolingCoolingOS
Patriot Pyro SE 120GB SSD Raystorm XSPC EX240 Windows 7 Home X64 
PowerCaseMouseAudio
OCZ ZX 850W Fractal Design Arc Midi Coolermaster Spawn Steelseries Siberia V2 Headset 
  hide details  
Reply
The Traitor
(12 items)
 
  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
Intel Core i5 3570K Z77A-GD65 (MS-7751) Gigabyte GeForce GTX 670 Samsung 8GB Low Voltage 
Hard DriveCoolingCoolingOS
Patriot Pyro SE 120GB SSD Raystorm XSPC EX240 Windows 7 Home X64 
PowerCaseMouseAudio
OCZ ZX 850W Fractal Design Arc Midi Coolermaster Spawn Steelseries Siberia V2 Headset 
  hide details  
Reply
post #8826 of 20721
Quote:
Originally Posted by Skrumzy View Post

Don't spread the paste you'll have air pockets galore. The tried and true method is pea size in the middle. The seating of your waterblock could be the issue but I highly doubt it. 1.4v with no IHS mod 90 degrees sounds about right. My guess is the thermal glue that your chip got was globbed uneven or too much causing the IHS to not make great contact with the cpu. Either lower the voltage or do the IHS mod. Sorry frown.gif

Really I don't want to be rude, but u saying bull****.

Look again on the pictures above. The coumpand wasn't on the whole IHS and waterblock. It's obvies it was not enough compand and it's look like not using cross pattern method to lock the waterblock.

It's a lot of ways to put compound I like line method and it works for me and H320 with exactly the same CPU (small edit: sorry I have 3930K) and motherboard.

To the author. Put like I said and lock the block cross pattern. You didn't put enough compound and maybe too fast lock one of the sides of water block.

One more thing.

How the hell u want to make mod of LGA2011 IHS. IT DOSEN'T HAVE a glue under IHS. It's soldering CPU. If you will try to remove it, I will ensure you - you will broke core. LGA2011 and LGA1150 CPUs are completely different.
Edited by Lord Nikkon - 1/18/14 at 3:44am
post #8827 of 20721
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lord Nikkon View Post

Really I don't want to be rude, but u saying bull****.

Look again on the pictures above. The coumpand wasn't on the whole IHS and waterblock. It's obvies it was not enough compand and it's look like not using cross pattern method to lock the waterblock.



It's a lot of ways to put compound I like line method and it works for me and H320 with exactly the same CPU and motherboard.

To the author. Put like I said and lock the block cross pattern. You didn't put enough compound and maybe too fast lock one of the sides of water block

http://www.maximumpc.com/article/howtos/howto_install_cpu_and_apply_thermal_paste.

I found that in a 5 sec Google search. Do research on ivy bridge and haswell before you comment again. No IHS mod + 1.4 v is way to high. Not responding anymoreanymore

*edit* your right I was mistaken as I have not followed the -e series...it is soldered I apologize..
Edited by Skrumzy - 1/18/14 at 4:13am
The Traitor
(12 items)
 
  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
Intel Core i5 3570K Z77A-GD65 (MS-7751) Gigabyte GeForce GTX 670 Samsung 8GB Low Voltage 
Hard DriveCoolingCoolingOS
Patriot Pyro SE 120GB SSD Raystorm XSPC EX240 Windows 7 Home X64 
PowerCaseMouseAudio
OCZ ZX 850W Fractal Design Arc Midi Coolermaster Spawn Steelseries Siberia V2 Headset 
  hide details  
Reply
The Traitor
(12 items)
 
  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
Intel Core i5 3570K Z77A-GD65 (MS-7751) Gigabyte GeForce GTX 670 Samsung 8GB Low Voltage 
Hard DriveCoolingCoolingOS
Patriot Pyro SE 120GB SSD Raystorm XSPC EX240 Windows 7 Home X64 
PowerCaseMouseAudio
OCZ ZX 850W Fractal Design Arc Midi Coolermaster Spawn Steelseries Siberia V2 Headset 
  hide details  
Reply
post #8828 of 20721
Quote:
Originally Posted by Skrumzy View Post

http://www.maximumpc.com/article/howtos/howto_install_cpu_and_apply_thermal_paste.

I found that in a 5 sec Google search. Do research on ivy bridge and haswell before you comment again. No IHS mod + 1.4 v is way to high. Not responding anymore

I said about IHS and what is under it.

http://www.xbitlabs.com/articles/cpu/display/core-i7-4960x-4930k-4820k_9.html

"It’s different with the LGA2011 CPUs. Intel employs fluxless soldering for them, so the CPU die transfers its heat to the CPU cap via indium-based solder. That’s why the success of your overclocking an Ivy Bridge-E CPU depends on your cooler's efficiency and is not limited by any other factors."

So u can make mod with IHS but it is way more dangerous (and more difficult) than LGA115x CPUs. Read before you will write something. Usually no one remove IHS from LGA2011 because its usually unneeded and don't bring such a dramatic difference like in main stream CPUs

About putting the compound. It's many ways and even more articles about it. Simply - everyway is good if it's work. Just check the size of the IHS on LGA115x and 2011. 2011 need more compound then other CPUs. I'm using line method because I can quite easy see how much I have already on the IHS. Peal is ok but on smaller CPUs

You were looking but not so well (think to prove of your idea).

Small test for You (took me 10 sec to find it):
http://www.pugetsystems.com/labs/articles/Thermal-Paste-Application-Techniques-170/

1,4 V is quiet to much, but it depends on CPU and situation (stress or idle). In the link which I gave u can see that for example 4820 is running quite close 1,4 V.
Edited by Lord Nikkon - 1/18/14 at 4:21am
post #8829 of 20721
Quote:
Originally Posted by Skrumzy View Post

http://www.maximumpc.com/article/howtos/howto_install_cpu_and_apply_thermal_paste.

I found that in a 5 sec Google search. Do research on ivy bridge and haswell before you comment again. No IHS mod + 1.4 v is way to high. Not responding anymoreanymore

*edit* your right I was mistaken as I have not followed the -e series...it is soldered I apologize..

No problem thumb.gif
post #8830 of 20721
I just added a GPU to the loop of my H220 and it's still sitting on my table, but the problem is that i can't get the air out of the pump anymore. I've been trying to get it out for 2 hours now. The radiator is filled to the top, I have shaken everything around, turned the pump on it's sideways, upside down, knocked on it, pressed on the tubes, moved the tubes and the air bubbles just don't want to go away. How do I fix this? Any help appreciated!
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:
  Return Home
  Back to Forum: Water Cooling
Overclock.net › Forums › Cooling › Water Cooling › Swiftech H220/H320/H220X/H240X/H140X and CM Glacer 240L/360L Owners' Club