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Swiftech H220/H320/H220X/H240X/H140X and CM Glacer 240L/360L Owners' Club - Page 937

post #9361 of 20767
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gil80 View Post

The problem is, that I can't find active back plate to buy in Australia.

 

http://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info.php?products_id=3150

Aqua Computer will ship to Australia for 34,90€.

Out of stock, but it's on reproduction.

Estimated shipping will be at 26.3.2014.

Hope youcells are not in super urgent mode? 
We can even help you with that shipping , so if you want our help, just PM us. :helpingha 
 

Quote:
Originally Posted by Gil80 View Post

And on top of that, I don't even know how it's possible to connect GPU water block cooling with water cooling back plate. How is it all going to fit?

 

Youcells don't need to know exactly how, Aqua Computer has done it for you. :thumb: 

See the pictures (ENLARGE them) from their website link above for visual answer.


Also the earlier answer to that Stern's waterblock test review preliminary summary explains that. 

http://www.xtremerigs.net/2014/01/01/r9-290x-gpu-block-performance-summary/


Our short explanation:

The aluminium backplate of the Aqua Computer has a profile that takes direct contact(with thermal pads) to the videocard backside VRM modules, from where the heat goes then to the backplate (flowing case air also cools it down).

From the aluminium backplate the copper heatpipe will transfer some extra heat to the waterblock terminal input and output, from where the flowing water is cooling the heatpipe and then it(heatpipe) returns again to cool the backplate over the VRM modules...

That is the basic structure of that active backplate thermal loop.

And it's working! :wave2: 


Edited by We of Us - 3/5/14 at 11:46am
post #9362 of 20767
Quote:
Originally Posted by thelude View Post

Hey Bram. Any word/information on the new H220x or the MCP50x. Is it nearing release? Thanks.

Right now the factory is working on the new pump design and therefore I don't have any definitive ETA on the new pumps or kits. There could also be a bit of a delay from the previous date that was posted.

Quote:
Originally Posted by MikeTheTiger View Post

Good to know. What would you suggest is the best way to blokes the air out of the pump?

The best way would be to remove the pump/ water block unit completely and then try shaking it to get the air to move out of it. You might also need to rotate your case to accomplish this. I don't have any idea of what your loop configuration currently looks like, so if you post a couple of pics I might be able to help you out a little better.
post #9363 of 20767
Quote:
Originally Posted by MikeTheTiger View Post

Good to know. What would you suggest is the best way to blokes the air out of the pump?

Try tilting your case in different angles. What work for me was changing my speed pump from high to low and back and forth to get those air bubbles. GL
post #9364 of 20767
Quote:
Originally Posted by BramSLI1 View Post

Right now the factory is working on the new pump design and therefore I don't have any definitive ETA on the new pumps or kits. There could also be a bit of a delay from the previous date that was posted.

Thanks. Hopefully we see it b4 the summer.
post #9365 of 20767
Quote:
Originally Posted by BramSLI1 View Post

Right now the factory is working on the new pump design and therefore I don't have any definitive ETA on the new pumps or kits. There could also be a bit of a delay from the previous date that was posted.
The best way would be to remove the pump/ water block unit completely and then try shaking it to get the air to move out of it. You might also need to rotate your case to accomplish this. I don't have any idea of what your loop configuration currently looks like, so if you post a couple of pics I might be able to help you out a little better.

I have it crammed into an NCase M1





post #9366 of 20767
Quote:
Originally Posted by MikeTheTiger View Post

I have it crammed into an NCase M1






OK, in that configuration you're going to have problems bleeding the pump. It's such a cramped space and what you'll likely need to do is actually fill the loop outside of your case and then reinstall it. This won't be easy, but it will be the best way to ensure that the pump isn't sucking on air.
post #9367 of 20767
Quote:
Originally Posted by BramSLI1 View Post

OK, in that configuration you're going to have problems bleeding the pump. It's such a cramped space and what you'll likely need to do is actually fill the loop outside of your case and then reinstall it. This won't be easy, but it will be the best way to ensure that the pump isn't sucking on air.

I'll give it another try. I'll let you know how it goes.
post #9368 of 20767
Quote:
Originally Posted by BramSLI1 View Post

There could also be a bit of a delay from the previous date that was posted.

Nooooo. I've been waiting for this for a long while.
post #9369 of 20767
Quote:
Originally Posted by BramSLI1 View Post

Right now the factory is working on the new pump design and therefore I don't have any definitive ETA on the new pumps or kits. There could also be a bit of a delay from the previous date that was posted.

Oh my GOD frown.gif
post #9370 of 20767
Quote:
Originally Posted by BramSLI1 View Post

OK, in that configuration you're going to have problems bleeding the pump. It's such a cramped space and what you'll likely need to do is actually fill the loop outside of your case and then reinstall it. This won't be easy, but it will be the best way to ensure that the pump isn't sucking on air.

Thanks for the help. I wound up just taking out the rad/res, cycling the pump and shaking everything around until the big bubbles worked themselves out. The pump makes bubbling noises every once in awhile, but I think its more bubbles working themselves out. Will bleed it more later. Temps are now 36-40C at idle.
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