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Swiftech H220/H320/H220X/H240X/H140X and CM Glacer 240L/360L Owners' Club - Page 958

post #9571 of 20767
Quote:
Originally Posted by NUKESHOCK View Post

Well the 7970 was getting hotter then the CPU around 80c when playing games , and I did try using the X40 on the 7970 but it only improved slightly , when I used the H220 the temps drop by almost 20c which was great ! Plus the x40 was doing a fine job at keeping my CPU cool ,
I just want to change the look of the ugly black tubing and at the same time get better temps with the CPU. =)

Note* The 7970 is a lighting edition 7970 and i have it OCed to 1290MHZ currently. and the temps from it combing it with the CPU loop would make my CPU temp rise alot =/
I live in a tropical country where room temp can be 30c avg ( yeah its blistering over here ) and my room had very poor air circulation.

OK, I now understand your situation. Is there some way that you could install a dual 120mm radiator in the bottom of your case? This would be enough radiator surface area to dissipate the added heat load from your CPU.
post #9572 of 20767
Quote:
Originally Posted by NUKESHOCK View Post

Well the 7970 was getting hotter then the CPU around 80c when playing games , and I did try using the X40 on the 7970 but it only improved slightly , when I used the H220 the temps drop by almost 20c which was great ! Plus the x40 was doing a fine job at keeping my CPU cool ,
I just want to change the look of the ugly black tubing and at the same time get better temps with the CPU. =)

Note* The 7970 is a lighting edition 7970 and i have it OCed to 1290MHZ currently. and the temps from it combing it with the CPU loop would make my CPU temp rise alot =/
I live in a tropical country where room temp can be 30c avg ( yeah its blistering over here ) and my room had very poor air circulation.

Same here, Singapore is hot. Just unsure if the card can take the whole weight of the pump over time.
Would the pcb bend over time?
I personally would just expand the loop,adding more rads(eyeing the alphacool st30).
But that's just me.

Also from what i read, and do correct me if i'm wrong here, but most closed loop coolers have aluminium rads,hence the limited cooling capability when compared to full copper rads.
Just switched from a gtx 570 to a r9 290 so I really have no experience about ati cards though.

As what Bram said, if you could install a dual 120mm rad, that should be enough to cool card and cpu.
General rule of thumb, from what I've read here is 120mm of rad per component with a 120mm extra just to be safe
Edited by cephelix - 3/21/14 at 10:22am
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post #9573 of 20767
Quote:
Originally Posted by cephelix View Post

Same here, Singapore is hot. Just unsure if the card can take the whole weight of the pump over time.
Would the pcb bend over time?
I personally would just expand the loop,adding more rads(eyeing the alphacool st30).
But that's just me.

Also from what i read, and do correct me if i'm wrong here, but most closed loop coolers have aluminium rads,hence the limited cooling capability when compared to full copper rads.
Just switched from a gtx 570 to a r9 290 so I really have no experience about ati cards though.

The performance does take a small hit because of the aluminum material of the radiator, but there is also the issue of developing galvanic corrosion because of mixed metals. Just something to also consider if you plan to expand a sealed AIO kit.
post #9574 of 20767
ahh,I knew I forgot to mention something...
some sources said that the galvanic corrosion is minimal unless there's some other metal in the loop, can't seem to recall which.
But better be safe than sorry i suppose, unless you have spare moolah to burn.
Thank you for that bram.
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post #9575 of 20767
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by mrazster View Post

I´m about to expand my H320 with an extra Swiftech 240 rad. This will be done in my Corsair Obsidian 750 case.
I´ve playing back and foward with different ideas how and where to mount my rads.
The only option I can comne up with, without doing any modifications to my case is to mount the 360 to the roof with the fans mounted from the insde pushing air through the rad out of the case.. and then mount the 240 in the front with the fans blowing air through the rad in to the case. And then configure it so that the pump is pushing water from the block, to the top 360 rad first, then down to the front 240 rad and then back to the block.

Now the reasoning for this is that in my experience from about 20 years of hardware and computing is that working with the laws of nature, usually gets the best result. Hot air is rising uowards, so pushing cold air in to the case in the bottom/front and blowing out in the top/rear works best.

So my conser is that if I push air thru the frontrad in to the case, even thou it is the second rad in line and the worst heat will be removed from the 360 in the top, it´s still going to push some hot air in to the case.

What is your take on this issiue...how would you do it ?


Heat rising in stagnant air with no airflow is not a very quick process, in that general air movement will quickly change it. Any airflow will make the process much quicker. And in custom computer cases, where several fans are pushing a lot of directional air flow, the air has no time to rise because of heat, and therefor heat is really a non-factor in planning your air flow.
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post #9576 of 20767
Quote:
Originally Posted by Phelan View Post

Heat rising in stagnant air with no airflow is not a very quick process, in that general air movement will quickly change it. Any airflow will make the process much quicker. And in custom computer cases, where several fans are pushing a lot of directional air flow, the air has no time to rise because of heat, and therefor heat is really a non-factor in planning your air flow.

For the most part this is true. Most cases are not completely sealed units and therefore there are lots of ways for heat to escape. I have my own top and back radiators set to exhaust and my temperatures never get above 45 Celsius. My ambient is also usually around 25 to 27 Celsius. I have two 140mm fans intaking air in the front and my bottom radiator is also set up as an intake.
post #9577 of 20767
[quote Normaly I wouldn´t be that concerned, but since I´m running a powerhug/heatbeast of a cpu I really want the heat out of the case.
[/quote]

Still a non issue in my opinion, I am running my i5 3570k oc to 4.9 Ghz @ 1.4v 24/7 and my K|ngp|n is overvolted to up to 1.35v (1400mhz) sometimes slightly higher V when measured with a DMM during benchmarks.
I am only using 2 rads (no extra res. not yet anyway) and internal case temps are not a concern. After playing BF4 or FC3 for several hours water temp in loop read only 27c (idle is 21c).
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post #9578 of 20767
Quote:
Originally Posted by NUKESHOCK View Post

Well the 7970 was getting hotter then the CPU around 80c when playing games , and I did try using the X40 on the 7970 but it only improved slightly , when I used the H220 the temps drop by almost 20c which was great ! Plus the x40 was doing a fine job at keeping my CPU cool ,
I just want to change the look of the ugly black tubing and at the same time get better temps with the CPU. =)

Note* The 7970 is a lighting edition 7970 and i have it OCed to 1290MHZ currently. and the temps from it combing it with the CPU loop would make my CPU temp rise alot =/
I live in a tropical country where room temp can be 30c avg ( yeah its blistering over here ) and my room had very poor air circulation.

Those temps are way too high for having an H220 or even an x40 on a 7970. Had a kuhler 620 on my 7870 XT (Tahiti LE chip puts out same heat as Tahiti PRO/XT) running 1.25V with 28-29C ambients. It never got anywhere close to 80C+.

Are you sure you're using a proper shim? 7970 and 7950 require a shim as the GPU die is recessed. Also when using a shim you put TIM on both sides, GPU to shim and shim to cooler/block.


Edited by M3TAl - 3/21/14 at 1:31pm
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post #9579 of 20767
Quote:
Originally Posted by Phelan View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by mrazster View Post

I´m about to expand my H320 with an extra Swiftech 240 rad. This will be done in my Corsair Obsidian 750 case.
I´ve playing back and foward with different ideas how and where to mount my rads.
The only option I can comne up with, without doing any modifications to my case is to mount the 360 to the roof with the fans mounted from the insde pushing air through the rad out of the case.. and then mount the 240 in the front with the fans blowing air through the rad in to the case. And then configure it so that the pump is pushing water from the block, to the top 360 rad first, then down to the front 240 rad and then back to the block.

Now the reasoning for this is that in my experience from about 20 years of hardware and computing is that working with the laws of nature, usually gets the best result. Hot air is rising uowards, so pushing cold air in to the case in the bottom/front and blowing out in the top/rear works best.

So my conser is that if I push air thru the frontrad in to the case, even thou it is the second rad in line and the worst heat will be removed from the 360 in the top, it´s still going to push some hot air in to the case.

What is your take on this issiue...how would you do it ?


Heat rising in stagnant air with no airflow is not a very quick process, in that general air movement will quickly change it. Any airflow will make the process much quicker. And in custom computer cases, where several fans are pushing a lot of directional air flow, the air has no time to rise because of heat, and therefor heat is really a non-factor in planning your air flow.


this, although in stagnate air heat does rise, but unless you are running a 100% passive system, or just have poor airflow, this is just not true in pc cases, heat DOES NOT RISE it goes where the fans push it !!
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post #9580 of 20767
Ok guys question?

On my second H320 now(gave up on H220, RMA sitting in corner). Just restarted PC to install PCIE intel nic and zero RPM on H320 pump...... zzzzz This is the new RMA H320, now I tried removing splitter connecting to cpu fan header directly blah blah usual BS u have to do to test if its a power problem etc.. So I gave up and whacked the pump with my heavy screwdriver and guess what.... it now works 3000rpm as advertised, great temps etc etc. Now to the question.. do i keep it in there and wait n see or just be done with swiftech and go to something like a corsair h100i or h110(have one in my old system).

Thoughts gents?


Sigh Great kit poor QC (three units 1 h220 n 2 h320's all pump issues, coincidence?)
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