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Swiftech H220/H320/H220X/H240X/H140X and CM Glacer 240L/360L Owners' Club - Page 99

post #981 of 20784
Quote:
Originally Posted by AdamMT View Post

I hear it's not such a good idea to have different fans in push/pull because they can fight each other with different speeds and patterns. I'd mount both noctuas on one side and both helix fans on the other. But this is just from reading what others have said -- not personal experience.

Yes, I read that while browsing this thread, will do more tests as I can control each of 2 kits separately, thanks to the 2 PWM headers connected (one for the whole H220, one for the 2 Noctuas).
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post #982 of 20784
Hey guys, I'm getting high temps on my 3770k at stock speeds. I don't know what im actually doing wrong. My first cooler was an H100i. Noticed that my temps on full load would reach around 78C. I thought I might have received a bad unit. So I ordered an H220 and i set it up with 2 Noctua NF-F12 for maximum performance. Needless to say the temps are still high. Iv'e reapplied TIM twice on both units to make sure it was ok but nothing changes.

Here's a pic when its on idle


And here on full load


In the pictures I was using the H220. So please any advice would be greatly appreciated. Oh forgot to mention I'm running the pump and fans at full speed. Crazy how quiet the fans can be. So you guys think I might have a bad CPU? Haven't even tried to overclock it yet sad-smiley-002.gif Last note! This is my first computer build so I'm trying to learn from my mistakes as much as possible redface.gif
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post #983 of 20784
Quote:
Originally Posted by Brannigans Law View Post

Hey guys, I'm getting high temps on my 3770k at stock speeds. I don't know what im actually doing wrong. My first cooler was an H100i. Noticed that my temps on full load would reach around 78C. I thought I might have received a bad unit. So I ordered an H220 and i set it up with 2 Noctua NF-F12 for maximum performance. Needless to say the temps are still high. Iv'e reapplied TIM twice on both units to make sure it was ok but nothing changes.

Here's a pic when its on idle


And here on full load


In the pictures I was using the H220. So please any advice would be greatly appreciated. Oh forgot to mention I'm running the pump and fans at full speed. Crazy how quiet the fans can be. So you guys think I might have a bad CPU? Haven't even tried to overclock it yet sad-smiley-002.gif Last note! This is my first computer build so I'm trying to learn from my mistakes as much as possible redface.gif

If you can remove the block and post a picture of both the block and the processor without cleaning off the thermal paste this will give all of us an idea of what might be going on here. It simply sounds like your'e not getting a proper contact between your processor and the water block.
post #984 of 20784
Quote:
Originally Posted by Brannigans Law View Post

Hey guys, I'm getting high temps on my 3770k at stock speeds. I don't know what im actually doing wrong. My first cooler was an H100i. Noticed that my temps on full load would reach around 78C. I thought I might have received a bad unit. So I ordered an H220 and i set it up with 2 Noctua NF-F12 for maximum performance. Needless to say the temps are still high. Iv'e reapplied TIM twice on both units to make sure it was ok but nothing changes.

In the pictures I was using the H220. So please any advice would be greatly appreciated. Oh forgot to mention I'm running the pump and fans at full speed. Crazy how quiet the fans can be. So you guys think I might have a bad CPU? Haven't even tried to overclock it yet sad-smiley-002.gif Last note! This is my first computer build so I'm trying to learn from my mistakes as much as possible redface.gif
You don’t have your rig in your posts so it is hard to know what you are running. Here is how to get it in:
http://www.overclock.net/t/1258253/how-to-put-your-rig-in-your-sig

You have got some bad bios settings on both those screen shots. Stock settings don’t generate 1.31 to 1.34v for 3.9, those are voltages that would go with 4.5 to 4.8. Clear CMOS and start from default bios settings, reflash bios if need be.
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post #985 of 20784
Quote:
Originally Posted by justanoldman View Post

You don’t have your rig in your posts so it is hard to know what you are running. Here is how to get it in:
http://www.overclock.net/t/1258253/how-to-put-your-rig-in-your-sig

You have got some bad bios settings on both those screen shots. Stock settings don’t generate 1.31 to 1.34v for 3.9, those are voltages that would go with 4.5 to 4.8. Clear CMOS and start from default bios settings, reflash bios if need be.

Good catch! I didn't notice the voltage settings. That is most likely the main reason for his unusually high temps at stock speeds.
post #986 of 20784
Quote:
Originally Posted by justanoldman View Post

You don’t have your rig in your posts so it is hard to know what you are running. Here is how to get it in:
http://www.overclock.net/t/1258253/how-to-put-your-rig-in-your-sig

You have got some bad bios settings on both those screen shots. Stock settings don’t generate 1.31 to 1.34v for 3.9, those are voltages that would go with 4.5 to 4.8. Clear CMOS and start from default bios settings, reflash bios if need be.

Just added my sig thumb.gif, thank you lol. Ok I'm pretty sure i read that my motherboard has a clear CMOS button on the back I/O. Would that be the best way of doing it?
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post #987 of 20784
Quote:
Originally Posted by Brannigans Law View Post

Just added my sig thumb.gif, thank you lol. Ok I'm pretty sure i read that my motherboard has a clear CMOS button on the back I/O. Would that be the best way of doing it?
Yes, hold the clear CMOS button for 10 seconds or so, then let go. Load up into bios, then hit f5 to load optimized defaults, then f10 to save and exit. If that doesn’t work you have the Asus bios bug, and need to reflash bios.

Read, follow, and copy all the settings (except for your specific ram timings and voltages) from the guide here when you are ready to oc your chip:
http://www.overclock.net/t/1291703/ivy-bridge-overclocking-guide-asus-motherboards
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post #988 of 20784
lol, with those voltages you should be at 4.5 at least, lol.
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post #989 of 20784
Quote:
Originally Posted by justanoldman View Post

Yes, hold the clear CMOS button for 10 seconds or so, then let go. Load up into bios, then hit f5 to load optimized defaults, then f10 to save and exit. If that doesn’t work you have the Asus bios bug, and need to reflash bios.

Read, follow, and copy all the settings (except for your specific ram timings and voltages) from the guide here when you are ready to oc your chip:
http://www.overclock.net/t/1291703/ivy-bridge-overclocking-guide-asus-motherboards

Ok so my voltage went back down to 0.9v. Looks like it worked. Gonna run prime for another 30 minutes to see if there is any difference.
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post #990 of 20784
I would also check to see whether your VRM heatsinks are getting in the way. Looking at the stock photos of the motherboard, they seem to be pretty tall.

its kind of hard to tell with the pump installed, but the barbs may be touching the heatsink and preventing a proper seat. That is a problem with my motherboard so I had to rotate the pump so the inlet is at the top.

A surefire sign is when you remove the block to reseat, look to see if the barb elbows are scuffed.

it made a 8C difference reseating the cooler properly. At first i was seeing temps equal if not worse than the h100i.
 
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