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Swiftech H220/H320/H220X/H240X/H140X and CM Glacer 240L/360L Owners' Club - Page 985

post #9841 of 20809
Hi guys.

Which of these two are better at cooling my cpu
The swiftech h320 or the H20-320 HD Edge
post #9842 of 20809
My Glacer 240L fried, what fastest way to get this thing replaced?
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Mighty-iTX
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post #9843 of 20809
Hey guys, I am going to add another rad to my glacer 240l, and i am wondering what would be the easiest way to refill it with distilled water. The fill port is a little inconvienient to access tongue.gif
post #9844 of 20809
Hey guys,

I'm planning on expanding the H220 to include an additional 120mm thick rad and a 290x. The trouble is, I'm trying to do it within a Prodigy itx and it's my first time getting into watercooling. Can you please take a look at my (poorly drawn) plan and let me know if there are any changes I can make.

Note:
-I'm hoping the 220 will fit that orientation within the prodigy. Right now I have the barbs at the front of the case (just above the planned 120mm rad) but I think it will be cleaner if I rotate it.
-In case it's too difficult to see, my loop will be going H220>CPU>120mm rad>290x>H220
-I know it's not the best to have the rads as intake but I don't see another option due to the space limitations within the case
-I will have removed both HDD cages and the 5.25 bay

post #9845 of 20809
Quote:
Originally Posted by grunion View Post

My Glacer 240L fried, what fastest way to get this thing replaced?

I'd contact CM directly, they are pretty quick to respond in my usage (Cosmos II) and will get you sorted out. Bram on here with Swiftech, though, I think is a by a wide margin better smile.gif
Quote:
Originally Posted by EpIcSnIpErZ23 View Post

Hey guys, I am going to add another rad to my glacer 240l, and i am wondering what would be the easiest way to refill it with distilled water. The fill port is a little inconvienient to access tongue.gif

Easiest would be to have an external resovoir in the loop so you can just keep it topped off at your desired level. However depending on your case/configuration (Assuming your using regular tubing) it could be just as easy to have the original 240 rad mounted up top and just unmount/refill when needed.

For my own usage I take the top filter off my Arc Midi R2 and have some of the actual grating of my case dremeled out so I only need to unscrew the original radiators plug from the top side and use a squeeze bottle with small hose to top off the loop. If you can achieve this in the Stacker it's worth the little bit of configuring.
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Kaga (WIP)
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post #9846 of 20809
Quote:
Originally Posted by BillyMays14 View Post

Hey guys,

I'm planning on expanding the H220 to include an additional 120mm thick rad and a 290x. The trouble is, I'm trying to do it within a Prodigy itx and it's my first time getting into watercooling. Can you please take a look at my (poorly drawn) plan and let me know if there are any changes I can make.

Note:
-I'm hoping the 220 will fit that orientation within the prodigy. Right now I have the barbs at the front of the case (just above the planned 120mm rad) but I think it will be cleaner if I rotate it.
-In case it's too difficult to see, my loop will be going H220>CPU>120mm rad>290x>H220
-I know it's not the best to have the rads as intake but I don't see another option due to the space limitations within the case
-I will have removed both HDD cages and the 5.25 bay


One thing that you need to keep in mind with an ITX motherboard is the distance between the CPU socket and the memory. We have not yet tested this kit on very many ITX boards, but you could run into issues with space due to how the barbs stick out on either side of the pump. Just something to consider. Other than that it looks like your proposed build should work.
post #9847 of 20809
Quote:
Originally Posted by grunion View Post

My Glacer 240L fried, what fastest way to get this thing replaced?

I'm very sorry to hear about this. You will need to go through your reseller first, and if they are unable to assist you then please contact Cooler Master for warranty support.
post #9848 of 20809
Quote:
Originally Posted by BramSLI1 View Post

One thing that you need to keep in mind with an ITX motherboard is the distance between the CPU socket and the memory. We have not yet tested this kit on very many ITX boards, but you could run into issues with space due to how the barbs stick out on either side of the pump. Just something to consider. Other than that it looks like your proposed build should work.

Perfect! I've already got the build installed, just adding in the rad and gpu so I already know the barbs fit in the Maximus Impact. Thanks for your help!
post #9849 of 20809
Quote:
Originally Posted by BramSLI1 View Post

I'm very sorry to hear about this. You will need to go through your reseller first, and if they are unable to assist you then please contact Cooler Master for warranty support.

Way outside that window.

What will it be replaced with, bnib or a refurb?
Mighty-iTX
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mATX
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4770K/45/43 Maximus VI Extreme R290X R290X 
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Samsung Crucial M4 64GB RAIDR LSSWM 
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Cooler Master Glacer 7 Ultimate 64 SyncMaster Eclipse 
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XFX 1050 BE 600T Silver MX518 Desk 
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Mighty-iTX
(12 items)
 
One foot in..
(17 items)
 
mATX
(12 items)
 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
i7-4770K M7-Impact Strix GTX980 Samsung 
Hard DriveCoolingOSMonitor
Crucial M4 256 Glacer 240L W8.1 K272HUL 
KeyboardPowerCaseMouse
Saitek Seasonic X-650 Prodigy MX518 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsGraphics
4770K/45/43 Maximus VI Extreme R290X R290X 
RAMHard DriveHard DriveOptical Drive
Samsung Crucial M4 64GB RAIDR LSSWM 
CoolingOSMonitorKeyboard
Cooler Master Glacer 7 Ultimate 64 SyncMaster Eclipse 
PowerCaseMouseMouse Pad
XFX 1050 BE 600T Silver MX518 Desk 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
i5-4330 Z87 Gryphon GTX690 G.Skill RipJawsX 
Hard DriveCoolingOSMonitor
WD Blacks Hyper 212 W8.1 ACER 
KeyboardPowerCaseMouse
Logitech Ultra X3 1000w Corsair 230T Orange Razer 
  hide details  
Reply
post #9850 of 20809
Quote:
Originally Posted by Azefore View Post

Easiest would be to have an external resovoir in the loop so you can just keep it topped off at your desired level. However depending on your case/configuration (Assuming your using regular tubing) it could be just as easy to have the original 240 rad mounted up top and just unmount/refill when needed.

For my own usage I take the top filter off my Arc Midi R2 and have some of the actual grating of my case dremeled out so I only need to unscrew the original radiators plug from the top side and use a squeeze bottle with small hose to top off the loop. If you can achieve this in the Stacker it's worth the little bit of configuring.

Alright. Once my stacker arrives, i'll check it out and do a little modding if i have too. What about water levels? What if the pump goes dry when im bleeding it?
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